Arne

Pics are fine, both now and earlier today, prior to your post.

Agreed. Dropping the transmission isn't that hard. I did it last Sunday - twice. Dropped the 4 speed out of my yellow car, then dropped the 'box from the red car and installed the 'box from the yellow car in a total of five hours, including a lunch break. Shouldn't take more than 2 hours to pull a transmission from a Z, as long as you have either a floor jack or a transmission jack.

I have Redline MT-90 in my 240Z's 4 speed, and it works great. MT-90 is a 75W-90 designed especially for manual transmissions. BTW, 2 quarts sounds like too much to me, I thought Z transmissions only took 1.5 quarts or so.

As long as your warranty issue is cut and dried, you may be OK. But if it's questionable, don't expect a dealer that you didn't buy from to help you argue your case with the distributor.

No, if the disc is rusted to the flywheel, the rest of the clutch parts can still move. I'm betting this is your problem, from all the symptoms you describe.

Doesn't take all that much wear, either. I can pull out the key on my red car, with only 62,000 mile on it. One of these days I'll buy a new lock and re-key it to the original code and be done with it.

Has the car been sitting for a long time? The clutch disk may have rusted to the flywheel.

I wouldn't assume that all 7" retaining rings are the same. The 7" diameter is standard, but it wouldn't surprise me at all to find that the spacing of the three mounting tabs is not. Do your research and pay your price. I'd far rather pay a little extra for a factory part that I know will fit.

I think all 240Zs had the same ratios, regardless of year.

Many people prefer 10W-30 in an L-series motor. 20W-50 is a bit thick. I still think the oil rings are either gunked up, or the ring spreaders have lost their tension. But probably gunked.

Nate, stock ratio for a 240Z with a 4 speed was 3:36:1. With an automatic it was 3.54:1. If you don't have a 5 speed in the car, you probably don't want to go much lower than that.

Here is an open invitation to Z owners within driving range of the Eugene, OR area for a day cruiZe through the historic McKenZie pass. No club memberships needed, just bring your Z. Date - Sunday, Sept. 23 Proposed itinerary: 9:30 - 10:00 - Meet at a convenient location TBA in Springfield. Gas up (gas stations are scarce where we're going). 10:00 - Proceed East on OR Hwy 126 through a bit of farmland, and then follow the McKenzie River upstream. 11:00 - Stretch break at Jennie B. Harris Park, just East of McKenzie Bridge. Restrooms and a short walk to the river. 11:20 (or so) - Continue East on Hwy 126 to the junction with Historic Hwy 242 (about 5 miles). Turn onto 242, continue on this narrow, serpentine, but well paved road through the trees and into the lava beds. 12:00 (approx.) - Stop at the summit, visit the Dee Wright Observatory. No, not for stars and galaxies, this observatory (also known as "Lava House") was built entirely from lava rock by the CCC in the '30s. Restrooms and great views of the surrounding Cascade peaks (if it's not too hazy or cloudy, September is generally pretty good). 12:30ish - Continue East on 242 to Sisters. Eat lunch. Totally no host, everyone is on their own for lunches. You can picnic at a very nice city park on the East end of town, or there are several cafes, restaurants and fast food to choose from. 2:00 - Head West on OR Hwy 20. Continue until the junction with 126, take 126 West. 2:45 - Stop at either Koosah or Sahalie Falls, or possibly Clear Lake, where the McKenzie River springs full grown from a spring-fed lake. The falls in particular are great. Sahalie does not even require a hike. (Restrooms at all of those three sites.) 3:15-3:30 - Return to homes. For some, continue back down 126 to Springfield. Others could do the same, especially if any want to chat over pizza or such before driving the last leg home. Or those of you from the North could backtrack slightly to Hwy 20 or Hwy 22 and head back towards I-5 and Portland. (Hwy 20 is a great sports car road, although maybe not the fastest route.) Comments?? Times are just approximate, especially as the day progresses.

Not necessarily. I've seen more than once that these L-series engines have good compression, but that the oil control rings are gunked up and don't scrape the walls clean. Has the engine been sitting for a while? You may want to try soaking the bores (and therefore the rings) with ATF. That can help free up the oil rings. Search the forums for "waking sleeping beast" which haas a good write up to getting one going right after it has sat.

No, when you're done with a thread, just ignore it and let it fade away by itself.

The picture has to be stored on a webserver some where else and then you can insert a link to it. You can't just upload it into the site that way.

OK, I thought yours were early, but they are not, those are original Rotolugs. Massey sold you Rotolug conversions, which I think are a better option than the originals, actually.

The workmanship does appear to be first-rate. And IIRC the seller makes no bones about this being a part that is patterned after similar badges for the 510, not a reproduction of an actual BRE part. My problem is, quality and such not withstanding, I don't personally care for grill badges on my cars. Never have. Didn't have any on the MG, and don't plan to have any on my Zs, either. I do like what Mike did with the shift knob, though.

Here's the basics: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21274

The 225/55-15 would have been a really great size for a Z. Unfortunately that size was used only on BMW E36 3-series cars with the factory Sport package in '93 and '94 only. It was only made by four companies - Michelin, Goodyear, Dunlop and Continental, IIRC. None of them were true performance tires, and I seem to recall that only the Michelin (or perhaps the Goodyear) are still made. In '95 BMW changed the Sport package tires to 225/50-16 instead. Same height and width. And as Dave noted above, this is a great size for a Z as well. As long as you have 16" wheels.

Excellent point. I'm trying hard to maintain a "period-correct" look for my 240Z, but if you're not you should absolutely consider larger diameter wheels. At least 15", and even up to 17" can be done very nicely. I'm running 225/45-17s on my family sedan, which is also a very nice size on a Z, given appropriate wheels.

For 14x6 wheels (which is what I have on my red 240Z) I'd go with either 195/70-14 or 215/60-14. Either should fit fine, unless the wheel has more reverse offset than is standard, in which case the 215/60 might barely touch the lower corner of the front valance when turning.

I've got a spare, I wonder if I can clean it up...

I have dealt with that seller before. I didn't buy anything big or expensive, but it WAS good. Yes, he's proud of his stuff, but on the other hand, his stuff is damn good. Only potential buyers can decide whether the price is too high for their tastes.

The presence and condition of that cover is one of the prime reasons that I have not done the ZX alternator upgrade on my own red car. Might be silly, I know, but there it is. P.S. - The attached picture is one from my pre-purchase inspection. Several things shown there have been corrected, notably the fuel filter.

Side note, on other cars I've owned, fuel pumps typically fail when warm, and often work fine when cold. You may simply be in the early stages of pump failure. FWIW.