Arne

Having just done this recently, I'll add that to get the most original looking finish with this paint, apply the last coat rather 'dry' so that it doesn't flow out well.

It's a dual filament bulb. When you put it in correctly the tail light filament is lit. If you force it in the wrong way, the brighter brake light filament is lit. This is totally normal.

The consoles for '71s have two slots also, they are the same as the '70s. You console must be for either a '72 or '73.

The two things to watch for in a used distributor are worn (sloppy) shaft bushings, and bad vacuum advance units. Both can be dealt with, but replacing bushings is fussy work and the advance unit isn't what I'd call a cheap part. A replacement advance unit may cost more than the used dizzy itself. Yes, you can put an E12-80 on a later dizzy that came with the E12-92, I've done it.

Hmm, I've never cared for the Iron Crosses at all, even on a ZX. But I'd never seen a polished set until now, either. Like you Stephen, I don't care for them on an S30, but those are the nicest looking Crosses I've ever seen.

They might, although the core agreement says that you are supposed to return the same make and model parts as you bought. If you get someone who knows what they are and can tell the difference, they may refuse to accept the 240Z calipers, but chances are they won't know the difference.

The round top domes - if they are held down with four screws they are '70-71 carbs. If they are held down with three screws they are '72 carbs.

I have bought from Courtesy, and recommend them highly. But since my local dealer gives me a similar discount, no shipping cost, and no sales tax in Oregon, for me buying locally can't be beat.

Ooh, I'm sorry for you folks. The parts department at my local Nissan dealership is much better than that. The parts manager is looking to buy a 240Z, and one of the counter guys has been there long enough that he still remembers 240Z part numbers off the top of his head. And they give me a good discount just because I'm part of the local Z group. Can't beat it with a stick.

Good comments, all of them. In summary, if you were to spend all the big bucks to use the diesel crank in an L26, you'd end up with a small bore motor that displaces somewhere between 2.7 and 2.8 liters. So if all you're going to end up with is a 2.8, why spend big bucks for the stroker parts when you can buy a complete factory 2.8 for peanuts?

Two comments. First, a 260Z engine (L26) is simply a mildly stroked 240Z engine (L24). That's really the only difference between them. Second, building a stroker engine is expensive. If more power is what you are after, why spend all that cash on an L26 stroker, when the same cash and stroker parts on an L28 will give measurably more power?

OK, I can understand the cosmetic value. And like you, if it were me I'd want to fabricate nipples for the two vent hoses. But I'd also want to run the valve cover breather to one of my filters, as that little filter on the valve cover just looks silly to me. (As well as causing some hot oil smell in the car, by some reports.) So before I went to all that work, I'd probably strip and refinish the stock airbox instead. Probably cheaper, too.

Also note what appear to be 240Z seats.

I guess my first question would be why not just use the factory airbox? How much benefit is there to ITGs or K&Ns with the appropriate airhorns? How much tuned beyond stock do you need to go before the stock airbox is a bad thing?

It may be interesting to note that the only thing left about that car that is "Black Pearl" is the paint itself, assuming that it is really the correct metallic black paint. It is missing the strips and rear louvers, and has the wrong mirrors.

My two '71s are both the same as Dave and Dave. The yellow is electric pump only, the red is factory mechanical pump. Both are still running points (for now). The yellow car is only started every couple weeks, the red car seldom goes more than 5-6 days between starts. I drove the red car last night, and so it started fairly quickly this morning.

Dave's explanation is great, and better than my advice. FWIW, neither of mine start immediately either, it is the nature of the beast.

Yup, you pegged it. That's exactly what's happening. If you need it to start quicker, you'll need to add an electric fuel pump.

If you are eliminating the coolant flow to the manifolds and have by-passed the hoses, there is no need to do anything to the coolant ports on the manifold. Just leave them be. Without coolant running to them, they do nothing.

Or, all that stuff could be good but you might really have low oil pressure...

Search is your friend... http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25211&highlight=step+lamp

Wheels look like Appliance Wire Mags in the wider 14x7 size. More lip than my 14x6s.

It was featured on bringatrailer.com earlier in the week. http://bringatrailer.com/2007/07/20/authentic-bob-sharp-75-datsun-imsa-gtu-z-car/

Man you sound like me with my red car. All these things I planned to do to my Z got shelved because of the existing originality of my red car. I've got a ZX dizzy sitting on my workbench, but the points are still working fine, so I haven't been able to convince myself to change it. I'm suffering with AM radio for the same reason. And don't get rid of the blue CA plates. To get vintage plates on mine I had to register them as vanity plates. I'll be paying extra for them every two years from now on.

Asking $7900, claims no rust. No connection to seller. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/378488039.html