Arne

Merged threads.

Mike, I have the advantage of having seen your car in person. And while I understand the desire to have something that is cleaner running than the triples, I don't think that any EFI that uses the stock 280Z/ZX manifold and plumbing is going to look good under your hood. Another concern would be that I can't remember which head casting you have on the car now. If it wasn't an injected head originally, it may lack the port notches needed to use the stock injection manifold/injectors. Alternatives, then? Well, assuming that you are convinced there's no way to tune the triples to run decently (and by the way, I can't recall what carbs you have, Webers? Mikunis?), one of my first choices for your car—both for tunability and looks—would be to beg Steve to build you a triple SU set up. I think your car had one of those setups on it when it was first completed, no? Or if you decide to tackle an EFI conversion, don't limit yourself to the stock manifold. Talk with Bryan (zccjdm.com) about some of the injection kits he can order. He has a custom 6 individual throttle body kit, an OER kit that looks like triples (3 dual-venturi throttle bodies on a triple-carb manifold), and even a kit to put a pair of big throttle bodies on a stock SU manifold. Good looking stuff. You'd still need to use a Megasquirt to run it, but Bryan may have some experience with that, too. And since he's close by (Redmond)....

Fishing for guppies, I figure.

Thread locked. Please move this discussion to the free classifieds at http://www.datsunclassifieds.com

I may still have a few of those floating around in my stash, I'll check tonight when I get home.

Most Japanese car makers and tire/tube manufacturers used that same Pacific cap in the '70s. The reason for the rubber cap on top was actually for tube-type applications. If the tire goes flat, sometimes the tube's valve stem can get sucked inside the tire. The rubber cap was there to keep the sharp end of the cap tool from tearing up the inside of the tire.

You should be able to find a lock that will work at any good locksmith, if that's more convenient than the tool companies. The locksmith I use for my car stuff has lots of this kind of thing in stock, so you can look at and touch it in person before purchase.

I work with virtualized servers daily at work. That is a back-end change that would have no effect on the content or its delivery to the users. It simply allows better use of hardware resources, as well as adding some useful maintenance and testing options. Not something that non-geeks need to worry about.

That quote is totally out of context, and now irrelevant. The forums were going through a bit of a rough patch back then (6 years, yikes!), a different kind of problem than what some members are now complaining about, If anything, the forums are friendlier on noobs now than in the past.

Never factory installed, always added later, often by the selling dealer. I'd leave it off if it were mine, but some people do like them. Your call.

2 inches is too low for a 240Z, doesn't leave any suspension travel unless you have the struts sectioned. You'd be bouncing on the bump stops.

Mine was in the transmission itself. The woodruff keys that locate the drive gear on the front of the countershaft were worn, allowing the the gear to move on the countershaft. Clunk once under forward torque, and thud back under the reverse. Sounded for all the world like the clunk was coming from much farther back. My issue was a bit unusual, but the moral of the story is that you may have to cast a wider net of troubleshooting to find this, as there are several potential causes. The full story of my transmission clunk starts on this page - http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/2007/07-08.html

Another thing to look at closely - the rear louvers pictured are the type that require holes drilled in the tailgate for the hinges and lower latches. Those holes are a prime spot to develop rust.

That was because the US regulations in the early '80s mandated that speedos not read higher than 85 MPH. Stupid, but true. This regulation was rescinded for the '84 model year.

ftfy.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?21274-240Z-260Z-280Z-auto-to-4-5-speed-swap

I've been watching this a bit since my car sold. Totally unscientific, of course, just word-of-forums kind of stuff. Besides the cars going to the UK, I've heard of several nice examples sold to the Middle East, and a few others (besides mine) going to Scandinavia. As I said, if we Americans aren't willing to pay good money for the premium cars, there will be fewer premium cars in the USA. Shipping them overseas is too easy, and they are even rarer overseas than they are here. It's a world market now.

http://bringatrailer.com

If buyers in the US continue to try to keep 240Z prices low by simply not buying expensive examples or shooting low-ball offers at them, before too much longer there won't be any expensive examples left. Not because the prices will come down—but because the good cars will be snapped up (at true market value) by enthusiasts overseas who recognize value when they see it. I don't think I have to tell you how I know this....

I'm not in love with ZG flares, Dave, but I don't hate 'em either. And I will say that IMO the Rotas are WAAAAY better looking than the Centerlines.

It's been a perennial issue. The 240Z appears regularly on various "buy one while they are still affordable" lists. The funny thing about that is that the collectible car "experts" have been predicting the "discovery" of the 240Z in the USA for at least 15 years now. Still hasn't happened. I figure there are a couple of root causes.One is that despite the attrition over the years, Nissan built way too many, and for the US market they were virtually all the same. So there is no perceived "rarity" to a 240Z, despite the fact that vast numbers have rusted to crumbs by now. And since there were no real factory options or high performance versions here, there's nothing to set some apart from others. IMO, this is where the artificial inflated value on the low-VIN cars among 240Z enthusiasts comes from. Lacking any other distinctive rare versions or options, the low-VIN cars become the only "collectible" sub-category. The other issue holding back the 240Z among mainstream US collectors is that they were built in Japan. Despite all that has changed in the world market (both automotive and in general) since the 240Z was new, a large number of US car collectors can't imagine a "collectible" car from Japan. Most are completely blind to the possibility. Back on topic - This car (despite a few obvious flaws like the aforementioned overspray on the strut towers) is an outstanding starting point to build a really nice #3 weekend driver. With very little work it could be a car that would attract attention where ever it goes, and would show and score well in local and regional import/Japanese/Datsun events. That said, I would be surprised if the bidding goes much above $10k, $12k at the very most. I'd like to be wrong, but personal experience tells me otherwise.

I'm pretty sure that I warned you that you'd regret that choice!

Actually, the radiator support on a 240Z was sloppily hand-painted flat black with a brush over the body color. There are several threads on this here. I was looking through my pictures here at work, but don't have a great example. But you can see the black on this one.

If I'm thinking of the same thing you are describing, those bulb seals are not from any particular car manufacturer, they come with most brands of H4 replacement headlights, though.

This thread is essentially a big "For Sale" ad, and does not belong in the technical/discussion forums. That's exactly why we have a free classifieds site. But since there has already been discussion, I'll leave it here for now.