Arne

Maxima, I believe.

The heater control slider assembly is attached to the rear of the panel with 4 screws. There is no way to remove the panel without removing the slider assembly.

Maybe. But sometimes it's not that simple. You need to honestly ask yourself what your own skills are, and what you will have to outsource. For me (and lots of others), that means it is better to but a good body and repair/replace the mechanicals myself. But I know others who are exactly the opposite - to them bodywork and paint are simple, easily and affordably done in their own garage/shop. But they have no desire to do greasy work. To each their own.Another issue is to honestly assess what you want out of a Z. Do you want a restored original car? A nice weekend driver? Or ??? If you intend to restore the car, be aware that having its original engine is a big deal for restored Zs. A beautifully restored 240Z with a non-matching engine is much less valuable than the same car with matching numbers. But if you intend to use it as a driver, that's not an issue.

Another place to look is at zhome.com, specifically this link. http://zhome.com/Buying/1stGenWhatToWatch.html Short version - rust. Even in California, they rust.

I had tentatively planned on black stripes for the yellow car, but am unsure whether I want any on my red car. I personally am not sure I like the white on the orange, but that's just me. Go with the look you prefer.

It was actually a pretty eclectic bunch of cars. One of my favorites was the red Crosley Hotshot with a tri-carb'd Ford flathead V8 under the hood.

One of the two blue ones is a 260Z. No, there were no 280Zs on display.

Apologies first. I have not yet gotten around to pulling the console out to clean yet, so I'm embarrassed to post these pictures that still show the previous owners' dirt. That said, I can't speak for the possibility that later boots were different, although the one on eBay and Kat's does seem to confirm that. Because the original still on my car looks very much like the pictures of the one that Bryan made, both in cut and stitching, and also in the grain of the material.

I drove mine 220 miles round trip to look at them all.

Yes, it can be done. Start by removing the cardboard glovebox. Then remove the heater fan motor, and then the heater fan housing. With all that out of the way, you can disconnect the heater box from all the ducting and control cables, unbolt it from the tunnel and firewall, and pull it to the side into the passenger foot well.

Yes, Mike's car does have triple SUs on it. Couldn't get close enough for a good pic, but if you look at this one closely...

Hah! I'm going to post the first pictures from the Roadster show! Since it decided to not rain today, I drove my 240Z up from Springfield (~110 miles) this morning, arriving at about noon. I left the show a bit earlier than I'd have liked, but wanted to make the trip home before dark - I don't have headlight relays yet, and don't want to drive after dark and risk the fusebox if I don't have to. Hung out with a7dz, beandip and nwcubsman for a while before driving back home. Here are a few shots of some of the Datsuns, including Mike's. P.S. - The little white 1200 is an electric drag car, 30 12-volt batteries, does 0-60 in 3.5 sec., and has done the 1/4 in 12.151 @ 106!!

I've got a yellow Series 1 you could start over with!

Certainly a valid point, Carl. But in my opinion a car need not be a perfect show car example to remind people why they were so desired when they were new. Certainly if someone sees my yellow car in its current condition they are not likely to be impressed.But all of the 5 cars pictured in the link below are driven at least fairly regularly. None of them are perfect, they all have flaw and some signs of aging. But none of them will embarrass their followers, and all of them draw comments from the crowds where ever they turn up - even if it's just the local 7/11 parking lot. Cars don't have to be perfect trailer queens to inspire... http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14707&d=1161634846

I agree with the others - the shop should repair this if you didn't request it. And then if they chip the paint it's on them. As for drilling holes in sheet metal, I always use a step-bit. They drill a clean, round and chamfered hole in sheet metal. The only way to fly.

Oops! I posted this assuming your car was a 240Z. Sorry, my answer is not applicable.

The 280Z rear bar could be made to fit, but the 280ZX bar can not. Zs and ZXs are totally different.

No. The ZX rear suspension is a totally different design. Front is probably different as well.

Victor, does the static position of the mount change when you jack up the car? Say you adjust it to be slack, neither push or pull, then jack up the car. If the bar is now tight, figure out if it's pushing or puling, then set the car back down and adjust the bar the opposite direction. I don't know that this method is "correct" but it seems to me that is makes sense. FWIW.

Randy, The parts CD isn't clear on this. It simply lists three "kits" - the AM radio, as well as two different AM/FM radios - as fitting "up to 7/73". If the factory AM/FM choice was ever factory installed in any '71s, it must have been VERY late - my 7/71 has the normal signal-seeking AM radio. But the Hitachi AM/FM may well have been a dealer option in '71. The Bowmans were also dealer offered, but might have been a higher profit item. I recall that the '74 B210 my wife owned had a Bowman radio in it.

Yes, there is. And it sounds like yours is bad.

Best I could do. Took several shots at varying exposures to try to capture it. But note the reflection of the red firewall and hoses. Glossy enough for there to be a reflection, but not glossy enough for the reflection to be sharp.

For the most part, I'll say they should be driven. That's what they were made for, not for being trailered to shows and such. My red 240Z is a relatively exceptional car, but it's not perfect, it has flaws, and I don't think I'm going to go to any great extremes to make it perfect. Because I WILL be driving it -- to gatherings, to work, on weekends, etc. Which means that even if I were to make it perfect, it wouldn't stay that way. Eventually it will get a new rock chip, or something similar. But I will concede that other people won't share my viewpoint. That's OK too. They made enough of them that we can have both kinds.

Yup, that is correct.

I'll second that - the booster in my low-miles red 240Z is more of a semi-gloss or satin finish. It is very smooth, but not high-gloss. I've painted a few parts with some Satin Black from Griot's garage that is very close.