Arne

But if you do buy an automatic, swapping is not hard. Here's a link to a tech article I wrote on this very subject. Series 1 240Z auto to 4 speed swap

No Dave, I hear ya. I knew going in to this that three bills would be a big stretch. Didn't really expect anyone to bite on that price, but kinda hoped for an offer of some sort. (Actually did get an offer - some yahoo said he'd "take it off my hands" for $500. I could part it and get WAY more than that.) Reality is that I probably paid more for the car itself than I should have, and it's a fact of life that you never break even on a deal like this. Yes, the car has a pile of potential to be a really nice driver. It will never be a big dollar car, due to the lack of original motor. Had I not bought the red car last fall, I'd probably try to have the rust and paint done over this summer. For a driver or weekend car, being non-matching numbers give a bit of flexibility in what you do with the car, and I had plans to take advantage of that. I don't know. First and foremost is that it needs to be saved - it has too much potential to part out. I have discussed the car with another club member, one who has the skills to repair and paint it himself. He also agrees with all of us that it's probably not worth more than $2000 in its current condition. Definitely a possibility. I keep grappling with the thought of finding someone local who'd do the body and paint fairly affordably, and then finish the car before selling it. Very satisfying thought emotionally, but doesn't make a lot of sense financially. How much deeper do I want to get into the car? Dunno. If I could get the rust cut out and painted for another $2000, maybe I'd try it. But I don't think that's very likely either...

I'm not sure about Les' re-covering job, but others I've seen (both MSA and Too Intense) lack the chrome trim strip that the originals have. That seems to be the telling point between NOS and re-covered panels.

The spacers are similar to the 5 lug adapters, but don't change the bolt pattern or number of lugs. They are designed to allow the use of commonly available 4-4.5 FWD wheels (a la Honda) on older RWD cars.

Does Tod have coil-overs? Seems to me you'd almost have to have them to fit 17x9s under the stock fenders.

If you know there is rust repair in your future anyway, I'd wait and apply the settlement towards the whole shebang.

Ask for a "caliper hardware kit" for the original Toyota application. I'm sure that Raybestos and others offer them.

The parts mentioned here (AM radios, D hubcaps, pristine door panels, etc.) along with the other obvious parts like un-cracked dashes, good tail lights and the like are a large part of why I decided it was cheaper to buy an entire low-miles car than to restore my yellow car.

Fuel line insulation. Typically seen on '73 240Zs and 260Zs with flat-top carbs. Rarely needed with round-tops, but still seen on '73s with round-top conversions. My late '71, for example:

Generally best to post things like this in the Classified section under Parts Wanted.

Are you talking about the Amco aftermarket add-on bar that runs all the way across the rear bumper?

When you say it has a "pull" in reverse, do you mean the car steers itself to one side while backing up?

Search the site for offset, you'll find more than you wanted to know.

You may have to build it yourself if you want it right. Dave's custom harnesses only fit on 240Zs, the 280Zs have different connectors. And here is a thread that points out that the kit from VB (now Black Dragon) doesn't fit either. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18141

Ooh! Don't get beandip started on spring cutting right now, that's a sore subject!!

You know, it's not all about the money. The yellow car taught me a lot, and helped me make some great new friends. At the time I bought it, it seemed right. Time has proven that to be at least partially wrong, but such is life. You know, if I could get the rust, body and paint done decently well for $3000, I'd be tempted to do it. It wouldn't take much to make a nice driver out of it at that point. But I don't think there are any shops around here that would do it for that. It really needs a buyer who does their own body and paint...

The last pair he sold in December went for $640. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290062541815

Brian, I'll guarantee that there is more damage behind the dogleg. Plus there's the inevitability that if one dogleg is bad, the other probably isn't very far behind it, but you can't see it yet. Those doglegs rust from the inside out. Truth is, even here in Oregon, any car you buy in that price range (yes, I've seen the seller's ad for the car you're looking at) is going to either be rusty, have serious mechanical issues, or more likely both. I've got one for sale here in Springfield, it's quite nice mechanically, but like yours, needs rust repair. Non-rusty cars out here - when you find one - start at around $4000 minimum, $5-6000 and up is more like it. Would that stop me from buying it? Not necessarily. Especially if I had the skill set to fix it myself, or if that was the absolute limit my budget would stretch to cover. But believe me, I know from experience. If you have to pay other people to do your rust, body and paint, you are far better off waiting and paying more up front for one without the rust. BTDT. Now trying to clean up the fallout.

I share the opinion that EFI is OK, as long as it hasn't been mucked with. The reason I have carbs is because I dislike the 280Z bumpers...

Years of coverage? Hard to say. If I were in charge, I think I'd do the inline 6 years - '69-83. But that's just my opinion.

Not without spacers. Way too much offset for a Z. At least for the front ones. Rears may be close.

Welcome, Brian. I remember seeing that car on craigslist-Portland a week or so ago. Hope it turns out well for you. If you make it down to the Eugene area, let me know. I'd love to see the car in person.

Both look right to me, Mike. Looks like the Shelbys were a pretty good alternative. I'd take either brand, if I were in the market.

Thanks to all who replied. Your thoughts all echo my own, and are exactly what I needed to see. As I see it right now, I have four options: 1.) Sell it locally, and hope to get $2000 for it. Easy, maybe quick and simple. 2.) Offer it on eBay, maybe with that same $2000 reserve, and hope for the best. Not quite as easy, quick or simple. 3.) Deal with the rust first, then sell it on eBay. More expense up front, since I'm not a bodyman, and would need to pay someone to do it for me. Might come out OK, but but might not. Should be an easier sale, though. 4.) Part it out. Start adding up the parts - early 4-screw SUs (no float drains) $150; good Series 1 console $50; decent dash maybe $100, used header $100; new radiator $150; turn signal and combo switches $50 each; E31 head $75; rebuilt heater box (new core, foam and valve) $75; complete wiring harness $150; Type A 4 speed $50; driver-quality tail lights $100; working clock $?; more??? That's over a grand there, conservatively. A lot of work, and one less 240Z on the road though. Not bloody likely. Again, thanks to all for your thoughts. I'll keep you posted on where this all goes.

Interesting. It does appear to be the antenna switch from an early AM radio. Even the wire colors appear to be right. Mine (Series 2, 7/71) only has the up arrow on it, same as in moonpup's pictures. My original radio owner's manual also shows only an up arrow, and no down arrow. But maybe earlier cars had both arrows?