Arne

Rubbing or not rubbing is just as dependent on the wheel width and offset as it is on the tire height and width.

Very concise, Jon. I think you covered the entire project in two short paragraphs.

Before we can give any advice, we still need to know whether your carbs are the stock '73 versions, or the earlier '70-72 versions that lots of '73s have on them by now. Because the systems are very different. Take a look at the pictures at ZTherapy to help you identify which type you have. The terms to look for are 'round-top' and 'flat-top'.

Courtesy Nissan sells repro Euro springs, which are what I have. The Mulhollands can be found now and then. I believe there are a set on eBay now.

The yellow car will be sold soon, so it will keep its stock suspension.On the red car, I don't want to lower it, but still prefer something a bit tighter than stock. So it will soon get a set of repro Nissan Euro Stage 1 springs matched up with a full set of NOS Mulholland (Interpart) strut inserts. I figure this should give a good street compromise.

Remember that 215s of the same 60 series profile will be shorter. It's a percentage...

What Victor said! Plus his profile says he has a RHD Fairlady. While it's a bit uncertain from the description whether its an S30 or an S130, being RHD it's got to be cool either way.

There are two adjustments for the early clutches. One at the slave, and the other at the master pushrod. The slave should be adjusted so that it just touches, and then backed off about 1 1/2 turns. The master cylinders pushrod should be adjusted so that the face of the clutch pedal is 8 inches from the front floorboard. Before adjusting the pushrod/pedal height, make sure to back off the pedal return stop so that you know the adjustment is accurate and not with the pedal sitting on the rubber stop.

Personally, I'd be much more concerned if the rears were progressive, especially if the fronts were linear. For street driving, I doubt that progressive fronts would be a horrible deal.

I've got 205/60-14s on my yellow car, and in my opinion they look too short. Like red_dog I much prefer the taller sizes tires appearance-wise. I have 195/70-14 (factory stock height) on my red 240Z and like that look. Lots mor choices too, although they aren't as wide.

Check the specs. 205/70-14s are roughly the same height as the 195/75-14s you are now running, just wider. The 205/75-14 are actually taller than the 195/75-14. I'm guessing that you don't understand how tire sizing works. The first number (195) is the approximate width in millimeters. The second number (75) is a ratio or percentage, not the height of the tire, as many people think. In the case of your current 195/75s, each sidewall of the tire is 75% of the width. So the sidewalls (measured from the bead of the tire, not just the part you can see) are 195 x .75 or about 146 mm tall. In the case of the 205/70, 205 x .7 is 143.5. So those two sizes are about the same.

No, it's a scam. New user, no feedback, pre-approved bidders - all the classic scam indications. He did a 5 day auction hoping to get bids quick before some one figures it out and reports it to eBay and they pull it. I reported it to eBay with a link to the B-J page on the car.

Probably true, Carl. I talked to an older lady (original owner) of a not-too-clean '73 a couple weeks ago. Car has 86,000 miles, and is totally stock. But it has rust in the hatch tray, right frame rail and left dogleg. It's eminently restorable, but being a '73 with rust, it's very hard to find a buyer for a car like that in this part of the country. Sad truth is that she'll probably end up having to sell it for a few hundred bucks to someone who'll end up parting it out. But if it were back East somewhere, it's probably worth a couple grand at least.So yeah, we're spoiled out here. If more people from the rest of the country ever start buying out here and shipping back East, our prices will go way up.

Oh. Long since gone. My yellow car had a shade-tree transplanted L28 with injection in it when I bought it. Now it has an SU-fed L24.

Say what? What clogged injector? Where did that come from?

ZX rears are different - they are not really struts, but are spring-seat shocks. They can be done much the same as a front strut.

Yes, very nice car. But in my opinion the BIN is too high, and frankly, it has already been bid up higher than I'd be willing to pay. Just like mine, it's going to need all the cooling/heater hoses replaced, fuel tank vent hoses, carpet, suspension (bushings and struts), and probably seat foam, webbing and vinyl (just because of age-related hardening). Great start, but will need work to be ready to drive. Plus, it's an automatic, which is a turn off for me but not others.

Remember that (according to his other thread) the head has the remains of a badly corroded head bolt still in it, and I believe that the corrosion on the bolt is very firmly wedged in the bolt passage in the head. The impact methods suggested may help, but I still think vertical forces will be necessary to break this free.

Hardly. FWD needs way positive offset.

All KYBs that I know of in the USA are gas-charged. I believe the only ones for the 240Zs are GR-2 - the "GR" stands for Gas Rider. If you are using the stock US spec springs, I agree - cutting those springs down is not the correct answer, using non-gas struts is the right way to go. Carl's threads on this are mostly concerning the other reproduction springs, the European Stage 1 spring set. They suffer from both the gas strut issue, as well as the possibility that the European 240Zs had different spring seat heights on the strut housings. For these slightly stiffer springs, cutting them down is required, even if you are using non-gas shocks. The long thread linked below rambles a bit, but covers most of the recent ride height issues: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21115

The problem isn't the springs, it is the gas-pressurized strut inserts. The gas pressure effectively increases the spring rate and so the car sits higher than it should. From what I've seen the KYBs add somewhere between 0.5 and 0.75 inches in height. There are only two options on this - cut the springs down or use non-gas strut inserts, which are difficult to find these days. Koni still makes non-gas units, and there are a few NOS struts still on shelves out there if you can hunt them down. I found a set of NOS Mulhollands, they should be delivered by the time I get home later today.

On a 240Z, the hose from the head is the lower hose. Not certain if 260/280Zs are the same, but I suspect they may be.

Stock 240Z had 150 HP at the flywheel. The chassis dynos measure at the rear wheels. Typically I've heard to figure at least 20% loss between flywheel and wheels. Plus the 240Z rating was gross, without exhaust, no alternator, etc. So add 25-30 HP at least to the dyno numbers when comparing to the original specs. I'd say 134 at the wheels is pretty decent.

My first thought is that there may be air in the lines which means the slave cylinder won't push the whole amount of travel. Have you bled it carefully recently?

See this thread on this item: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24591