Arne

I agree. The car only uses one of them, it attaches to the right side frame rail in front of the sway bar mount.

Funny, as I've spent the past few weeks slowly selling off all my extra Z parts.

I've found that a lot of the Porsche crowd favors Brad Penn oil, even over the VR-1 (which is a close second choice).

Rather than let these threads go on forever as they do in some other forums, I thought I'd start new ones for separate generations for the New Year. Use these threads for short, Twitter-like posts, things that may not be worth their own thread. This one is for the S130s. Enjoy, and let's keep each other involved!

Rather than let these threads go on forever as they do in some other forums, I thought I'd start new ones for separate generations for the New Year. Use these threads for short, Twitter-like posts, things that may not be worth their own thread. This one is for the S30s. Enjoy, and let's keep each other involved!

No. A ZX should have a single key that fits all locks. Sounds like one or more of your locks has been replaced.

In October I sold my car to a buyer in Norway. He has a friend who is a member of a club centered around American cars. His friend is the club's import facilitator, who has arranged the import of over 40 cars so far. If you aren't comfortable with doing it yourself, there are people in various car clubs in Europe who can assist you.

I'd be a bit wary of most modified motors, especially strokers. But a Rebello is a different story. A documented Rebello motor will be both powerful and reliable. If you are after more performance over stock, it would be really hard to find a better motor than a Rebello. I've never seen Lance's car in person, but there are several here on CZCC that have, and with my personal Z experience looking at his pictures I'd say the car is probably about as nice a non-concours car will get.

Dime wagons aren't all that rare here on the West Coast, I see them on the road a couple times a week. Been a while since I've seen one that nice, though. Not since Canby last June.

press and hold 'alt', hit 0233 and then release alt.....Or on a Mac, hit the 'e' key while holding the 'option' key, release both and hit the 'e' key again. é É

These things happen, some people can stick with things like a car forever. And some of us need to move to new things after a while. If you still find that you aren't enjoying having the car after the holidays, make plans to sell it and move on. It's no big deal. As nice as they are (and yes, I still think they are great cars), Z cars are just things. And sometimes you might need a new thing to get excited about.

Blue, that looks like a normal Cibié H4. Probably an early version, pre-Z beam. Nice vintage light. I had the slightly later Z Beams in my Z. Here's the picture of the concave ones I was talking about.

I just saw a set of these for sale on one of the Porsche sites. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/642626-massive-inventory-electrical-parts-sale.html Pictures of the concave Cibié lights are way down at the bottom of the page.

No need for a group buy, they are available pretty much all the time at http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

My yellow car had the original lines re-bent carefully. Don't kink one.

Jerry, all things being equal, I prefer Toyos over the Hoosiers as well. But I'm with you on the appearance and fender fill. I don't think Toyo has a 14" size that's going to approach stock diameter, and on a car at stock ride height, that's going to look goofy, IMO. That's why I suggested the Hoosiers, as they are the only high-performance rubber I know of that's close to stock height. The next best size would be something in a 195/65-14 (probably in something like Kumho, Falken, etc.), but those are going to be street performance tires, most of them all-seasons, so not in the same class as the Toyos or Hoosiers.

Loren, I guy I knew put those on his X1/9 back in the late '70s. The originals were made by Vitaloni in Italy and were nice mirrors. I haven't seen these new ones in person yet.

First, may I suggest that you have the mounting face on the back of the wheels stripped, machined or sanded to bare metal? Having that mating surface painted or coated can lead to lug nuts not staying tight. Now - tires. We've got 14x5.5 wheels and stock ride height. That means you will need a tire close to stock diameter to not look stupid on the car (too much fender gap). Ideally, I'd say you want a 195/70-14 like I ran on my car. However, there isn't anything left in that size that has any performance capability by today's standards. They are pretty much all mini-van fodder. Then again, today's mini-van tires are probably much better than the typical 175HR14 of the early '70s. So if you are OK with just normal tires, pick your favorite brand that has something available in 195/70-14 and go with it. I was running Toyo Eclipse on mine, because the tread design was much more conservative looking. Not really vintage look, but not today's wild directional stuff either. But I've heard that Toyo does not distribute the Eclipse line in all parts of the country, so YMMV. If you are looking for something with some grip, but still tall enough to fill the fender gap as much as possible, there aren't many choices. If you aren't going to be driving the car much, you could try Hoosier Speedsters in 185/70-14 or 205/65-14. Either will fit the 5.5" rim. Hoosier recommends against street use, even though they are DOT marked. But if you look through the Sport Compact mags, lots of kids run DOT-R tires on the street all the time. So I doubt you'd have any serious issues with that. Just don't tell Hoosier...

Only if the dealer installed the SAP (Sport Appearance Package). I've seen BPs with the normal mirror and no louvers. And even then, the dual mirrors in the SAP were not the same as the normal left mirror. You'd have to replace them both.

In most cases, the differences between harness versions are in how they connect to the other harness sections. If the dash and body harnesses are in good shape and worth keeping, you will probably need to stay with the correct engine compartment harness for your car - part number 24012-E4601, used from 2/70 through 12/70. You can use a later engine harness, but to do so without too much fiddling it is best to replace all three sections (engine, dash and body) with a matching set, in your case from a '71 as that year is most similar to your '70. You could try to use a '71 engine harness only in your '70, but you may have to modify/change the connectors where it plugs into the dash and body harnesses, which probably defeats your purpose. I actually have a complete set of main harnesses from a 4/71 in the classifieds now. That may be overkill for your needs, however.

Well, I'm going to get pissed if I get a door ding in any of my cars, whether Datsun, Porsche, VW, BMW, etc. I don't understand that comment at all. Porsche or Datsun, I will treat them the same. They are cars, after all, and they were designed to be driven.

Yes, you can use the later master cylinder, but you need to swap the outlet lines front to rear.

I only considered coupes. Targas and cabs do nothing for me. If I feel the need for open air motoring, well, that's what my motorcycle is for. Randy, a preference for the long-hoods (pre-impact bumpers) is not sick, it's totally understandable. I just didn't feel I wanted to spend that much right now. Power and speed had nothing to do with why I ended up with a 3.2 Carrera. If I was that concerned with going fast, my 240Z would not have been bone-stock. No, in the end, the difference between the 240Z and 912/911 is the same as it was when they were new. Both are nice cars, and while different, they are both fun to drive. But then as now, the Datsuns are far more affordable to buy and maintain.

I'm curious, Randy. Why? What about it did you not like?

Once I gave it to MSA, they kept my number on file, and the discount was always automatic. I never had to ask for it.