Arne

The second slot in the console of '70 and '71 240Zs was for a hand throttle, which most cars in the USA did not get because the DOT ruled them as bad. Search for "hand throttle" and you'll get all the info you want. The air pump is solely an emission control device. But there is no real gain to be had from removing it. The only effect it has on the car's power or drivability is a small parasitic power loss, some fraction of a HP to spin the pump itself. All its effects are in the exhaust, downstream of the combustion chambers. Removing it will not make any difference that you can feel, will not change the way the engine runs in any way, and maybe not even enough difference to be measured on a dyno. That being the case, and since it does help reduce emissions, please consider leaving it intact, if it is all there and still working.

Try here: http://store.classicgarage.com/nid2426piset.html

Welcome, Joe! While you'll find a bit of bias on this site towards the early cars, they're all fun, all special, and all welcome here. Keep us posted on what you end up buying.

I'll have to disagree with your opinion on that. The right side on my red car is obviously badly faded, when compared to any protected area of the finishers. Not only when comparing to the left side, but under the license plate, and at the top where the plastic rivets hold it (which is protected by the tailgate) on the same right panel. Any place on that right panel that has been protected by the sun is much darker, basically the same color as the hubcaps. They show absolutely no signs of ever having been repainted, either on the front, edges or back side. (Yes, I've personally had them off the car and checked.) So I'm at a loss to figure out how you can determine that the 'original' color is the obviously sun-faded pale color. I've seen pictures of cars with pale gray finishers before, and they always look wrong to me. (And yes, I'm old enough to remember seeing 240Zs when they were new.)So when I refinish my red car's grill and finishers, I will use the dark paint from Les. If you want to use the pale color, go ahead. It's your car, and your decision. But all the available evidence on my original un-restored car points to the dark color being original.

I have a late '71 with 60,000 miles, and the tail finishers and grill have never been repainted, as far as I can tell. I also have set of 'D' hubcaps that are near mint, were removed when the car was new and have been stored away from sunlight their entire life. The grill is obviously lighter in color than the hubcaps. But the effects of 35 years of sun on the grill are not easy to determine. On the other hand, as you can see in the attached picture, the tail finishers have obviously faded, and faded rather unevenly - probably due to the sun coming through a previous owner's garage window on the passenger side. The right side of the car's finisher is quite pale in color, getting darker towards the left side. The far left edge is much darker, and appears (to my eye) to be the same color as both the area protected by the license plate, and also the same my near-NOS hubcaps. I tried to take a picture to show this comparison to the hubcap, but the picture can't show subtle differences like this. Additionally, the finishers on my early car (10/70) also appear to not have ever been refinished. But for some reason they have not faded like those on the Series 2 car have. They are nice and dark, and definitely appear to be the same color as my 'D' hubcaps. I don't have a real good picture of these, but in the attached picture look at the left side of the car where it is not in the shadows. So when I refinish mine, I'll be quite satisfied if the grill and finishers are the same color as my hubcaps. (I'll most probably use the paint from Les at Classic Datsuns.) If there was any difference in color when the cars were new, it was very minor, and I don't think it will be significant.

Update - It was pointed out to me by someone else that the seller's feedback indicates that he bought the car in November on eBay for $8725. Not sure why he's trying to sell it so soon. I doubt it's a scam, since the record that he bought it a couple of months ago it is right there for everyone to see. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130041458369 But if you go back and look at the pictures from THAT auction, you'll see the missing info - the car was originally blue, and the engine compartment still is. And while most of the car looks OK, the engine compartment itself is a bit shabby looking. Considering the color change along with the other small issues, this would be an expensive car to restore to stock. Could probably still be a great daily driver, though. But the bidding is already as high as I'd want to go for a driver with non-original color. At least for us here out West. So... not sure why he's selling it now, maybe his wife isn't as supportive as some of ours are.

Yeah, looks pretty good. Must be a 7/71 or 8/71 build date, with that VIN. About twice as many miles as mine, the front emblem has been shaved, and it has a modern stereo. Amco rear bumper bar, and very vintage 6 slot mags. Sure looks like a great car, assuming the rest of it checks out as rust-less as the parts pictured. But no mention of rust at all...

Was that supposed to be your inside voice, Bryan?

One what? Which part(s) are you missing?

I don't think so. I think its a PCV valve. Looks exactly like the valves on both my '71s, and also the '83 ZX motor I had too. Should be a big hose (3/4-1" diameter) leading from the breather tube on the driver's side front of the block (under the thermostat housing) going up to the intake manifold somewhere. The PCV valve screws into the manifold and the hose attaches to it.

One of my '71s:

Sounds like maybe.See number 17 on this link: http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4942&d=1084548143 And look where the red arrow points on the attached picture.

Right side is the dash illumination dimmer, the left side resets the trip odometer.

Easy to find. Black Dragon - #53-676 (Left) & 53-677 (Right), $19.95 each. (Page 116) Don't have my MSA catalog handy, and can't get to their site. Factory part numbers are 26557-E4100 (Left) and 26552-E4100 (Right). Should run about $30 each at dealers who give club discounts.

Oops! Good call, I totally blew past that part.

You can borrow them from Schucks parts stores. When I did mine it was free as long as I returned it within 24 hours. Other parts stores have similar programs.

Yup, it's been done. A quote from the original post that started this thread.

Looks about right, but without knowing for certain I wouldn't take a chance on it. Might be for a Datsun/Nissan pickup, or who knows what?

Dunno. Have you called them and asked yet? If they don't, I'm sure you can get them from ZTherapy.

Ratios for the early Type A 5 speed are in the middle column of the attached spec chart.

Yeah, I'm watching that set, as they are very similar in condition to mine.

I have chatted with Jim, and also have later hinges on the driver's door of my yellow Series 1 and can confirm that the door doesn't fit properly. The problem is the same as Jim describes, the door is kicked out at the bottom.

Naw, the washer and dryer are in the garage. Wife gets testy when I set dirty, greasy parts on them. To clarify, the Hooker gasket set will only fit square port, carburated heads. No round ports, and no injector slots in the gasket.

Good point, Carl. Even my car, with only 60,000 miles on it will rarely if ever see much over 6000 RPM. Don't want to hurt it. Plus a stock L24 does tend to run out of breath about there. Doesn't do much good to spin it that fast anyway.

The replacements are $200. But read post #2 in this thread - replacing the fusebox is not the total answer. You need to fix the excessive current draw which causes the fuse to get hot.