Arne

Yes, free is a good price. But since I'm too lazy to ship it some ones' going to have to come to Oregon to get it. Makes it more difficult to get rid of.I've actually got some free L24 parts (head, block, etc.) too.

Centerline wheels will custom build fairly affordably, if you can find a style you like. http://centerlinewheels.com

Re: the rears - 9.5" wide with -19 offset is 4.5" backside, which gives 6.0 "front-side" - about what I was figuring. For the fronts - that gives a 4.0" backside, which gives 5.5" "front-side". As long as the ZG-style flares you get are the same as these, this should work.

As someone who has ordered lots of custom-built wheels for customers over the years in my former life, I'd recommend installing the flares first so that accurate measurements can be taken. That way you have a much better chance at getting what you want (and what will fit). That said, here's my thinking: For 17s if it were me, I'd want to go no wider that say 8.0" or maybe 8.5" rims so that I still had a wide selection of tires to choose from. Those sizes of wheels will also be more affordable and have more styles to choose from. As a best guess (not having a set of ZG flares handy to look at), I think I'd want to have around 5.5-6.0" of "front-space" to fill the flares nicely, but still be streetable. On an 8.0 wheel that translates to a backspace of 3.0-3.5" which may be difficult to come by in off-the-shelf wheels. Another option would be to use more commonly available backspacing and add billet spacers to give the additional width. For example, maybe a 17x8.0 with 4" backspace and a 1" (25mm) spacer. (Subtract the spacer thickness from the backspace to get the effective backspace. In my example 4" - 1" = 3" backspace.) Well made spacers can be a good option if the wheel you'd like isn't available in the backspacing you need.

That's a good common sense solution. Unfortunately these days, common sense is not all that "common".

So to recap, I have a red one (which matches my car, very cool!); a7dz has an orange one (hey! that matches his car too); beandip has a yellow one (and what color is his car, do you suppose?)...The rest is left as an exercise for the student.

Connect the two wires from the ballast to each other.

Can we assume that this was not a problem until the Pertronix was installed? Also, I don't have one so I'm not sure about this - but I always assumed that you don't want to use the ballast resistor once you have installed Pertronix.

Sorry, Jerry. I too had a Heritage certificate for my '67 MGB, but that data is not available for our Datsuns. I've read various explanations as to why Datsun doesn't have it, and don't know which explanation (if any) are correct. But regardless of why, that info isn't available.

I got a red one!

Better to find the leak and repair it.

The early 240Zs ('70s and '71s for sure, '72s too, I believe) did not have fully reclining seat mechanisms. They don't flip forward either, only adjust about 10-15 degrees. Not very conducive to sleeping in the car.

OK, that sounds right. First, the Pertronix only fits the single point distributors, so that upgrade is not viable with what you are now using. Since the tach jumps when you have the problem, my guess is either some sort of intermittent connection in the wiring to the coil, or possibly the coil itself could be going bad. Start with the wiring, check, clean and tighten all connections at the ignition switch and the coil. Also check the tach connector plug. I'm going to assume that the kickdown switch above the gas pedal is still hooked up, so check connections there, and also at the relay on the inner fender below and in front of the coil.

Dual point dizzy? Is your car an automatic?

It's not as simple as it seems. The headlights are a switched ground, while the park/tail lights are switched hot. I doubt you'll be able to find a single switch off the shelf that can handle both circuits.

Blower fan is a separate fuse in a separate inline fuse holder, Dave. Blue wire somewhere behind the radio.

Typically, I've found it easiest to remove the fan and fan clutch as a unit by removing the four nuts on the water pump pulley that hold the base of the fan clutch.

Hmm, less than 60 miles away. If it wasn't the holidays I'd try to arrange a visit. FYI - no problems licensing it here in Oregon, either.

Time to learn to use the search feature, Robert. A simple search for 'xr700' gave 20 threads, and 'xr3000' came back with 26 hits. Lots of reading there.

Alan,I don't recall anyone ever claiming that the "Series" terminology was Nissan-approved or used by the factory in any way. I have always understood it to be a way to simplify keeping track of the differences in various ranges of cars. Simply a convenience. Please don't think that any of us here in the US think there ever has been anything "official" about it.

Looks like the part number may be 40343-E8800, don't know if they are still available new or not.