Arne

Dave, did you use the wide-angle white LED with the factory green lenses? That worked OK?

Changing the fusebox is easy, pretty much as you said. But I'm not yet convinced that you need to do so. If the fusebox is really bad, the problem is very visible even from the front side. At this point, from what you describe, and considering prior history, I'd suspect the combo switch (headlight/wipers) is bad.

If you're not required to smog the car where you live, I'd not worry about it.

EGR stuff. Yes, it's emissions-related. Does your car have a header on it? That's a common reason for removal of the EGR.

Oh so very true...

Actually, it was in this very same thread, on page two. Here's a link to the picture, they apparently did say "Nissan 2000 OHC".http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11621&d=1143315711

The parts CD is not conclusive, but makes it sound as though the '77s should still have the switch. It is listed as 46100-N4200, ASSY - SWITCH BRAKE INDICATOR, start date 08/76. No end date is listed. So Ron, I guess my final thought on this then would be to see if your car has a single wire connecting to the distribution block under the master cylinder that all the brake pipes connect to. If it does, I'm going to bet that it has tripped. If it doesn't have that part, check the fluid levels and the switches in the master cylinder caps.

Stephen, you may be right. But I've seen info that stated the switches in the caps started in '78, while the pressure-type switch was used from '70-77. Since the original poster says his car is a '77, my info may still be valid. Or not, as I can't swear to it, and don't have access to a '77 280Z to check.

Stephen, there is also a pressure differential switch on the distribution block under the master cylinder. The switch has a single wire to it. It will light if there is a significant difference in fluid pressure between the front and rear circuits. I'm not sure about our Datsuns, but on some cars once that switch has been tripped, you have to relieve pressure in the other circuit while pressing on the pedal to "re-center" it. This is assuming that the root cause has been repaired, of course.

First question: Did you determine why the front reservoir went empty? Your brakes are a sealed system, and brake fluid doesn't go anywhere. Especially so for the front reservoir of a 280Z, which supplies the rear brakes. Simply filling and bleeding will not fix the root cause - you need to determine where the fluid went. In this case, the warning light may still be trying to tell you something is still wrong. On the other hand, if you have already truly remedied the root problem, you may need to bleed and reset the warning light switch in the distribution block under the master cylinder. I don't know the exact procedure for this on your 280Z, my FSM only covers '70-71 240Z.

And here's what I had to go through to fix the damage after one of my 240Zs' fusebox melted.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793 You'll want to check your fusebox's condition carefully. If the rivets between the wires and the fuse holders are at all loose, you may want to consider replacing the fusebox. If you do that, consider getting one of the modern replacement fuseboxes from MSA - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SEIC19. Once replaced, your car would then use the modern colored fuses.

Carbs. The carbs used on the '73 240Z and '74 260Z here in the US are not well liked. Your car (as shown in the pictures) has already had the original '73 carbs (a.k.a. flat-tops) replaced with earlier 240Z carbs (a.k.a. round-tops). So your car is not original in that manner, but probably runs much better because of it.

Try this tech article on door adjustment: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12484

I actually got both cars registered on Carl's site - the first took several tries, but the red car got posted with no drama. But actually joining the IZCC and getting a member number has proven to be far more difficult.

Bryan, I agree - in theory. But in reality, I have tried to join the IZCC (and the mailing list) at least 6 times over the past 14 months that I have been a Z owner, both using the web form, as well as e-mailing Tony Fruzza (Membership Chairman) directly, at both his zhome.com and personal addresses. Has never worked. I haven't quite given up, I tried again within the past few weeks. Still nothing.

Pictures show round-tops already on it.Nice car!

Great info. Admins, this thread should be moved to Tech Articles, it's clearly that type of post. Also, the alternator adapter developed by myself and Dave Irwin - and still available from Dave - would also work for 240Zs with this swap.

Interesting idea, with LEDs shining both directions. But I'm not sure that the light sections in a 240Z are large enough in height - even the smallest 3-bar needs more than 2 1/2". Don't have a tail light here at work to measure. http://www.spiderlite.com/

The L28 from the 1983 280ZX-NA had it, don't know about other ZXs.

Like many English cars of the '60s and '70s, I strongly suspect that the 240Z heater was not standard equipment in much of the rest of the world, only in the US. (Every tried to find an early wiring diagram that shows the heater fan wiring?) So I see no reason why you shouldn't remove it if you don't need it. Fewer hoses means fewer things to go wrong.

Oh my!! At today's exchange rates, that's about US$11,000, plus shipping from down-under. Dang that's tempting....

I sent you a PM, TomoHawk.

The normal hookup (for round-top SUs, '70-72) is to a nipple on the front carb body. I don't know if the DGVs have a vacuum port on the carb suitable for that, so the connection to the balance tube might be your only choice. I don't think that should cause any problems.

Just as an aside, apparently some of the very early cars may have been different, the 'Off' position on the top slider was not on the left. I can't recall if it was in the middle or on the right, but I have seen pictures of control panels so labeled. Also, replacement labels were available from Nissan at some point. The part numbers are: 68841-E4600, Label - Air Control; 68843-E4600, Label - Temp Control; and 68845-E4600, Label - Def Control. I tried to order a set a couple months ago, was told the numbers were good, but the parts weren't available. Lastly, note that the original labels has/had chrome-like silver lettering, which would be very hard to duplicate on a printer. I thought about trying to make some using a Brother laminated label maker, which would also have been white lettering on black.

That seems to have it covered Bruce. Your labels match my heater panel from the yellow (10/70) car.