Arne

The parts Mike pictured are the same as I found in both my yellow 240Z (10/70) and my parts car (4/71). I haven't had my red car's mirror apart yet, but it certainly looks the same from the outside (7/71).

I believe I now know the difference between early and late grommets. The late grommet (the one you always see offered these days) has a round protrusion into the engine compartment. The early grommet has two smaller protrusions. In the attached pictures, the early is shown installed in the (red) firewall, and the late is shown sitting on a table.

I think it'll be OK, as long as the lug nuts don't bottom out on the now-longer studs. I did that with those same wheels for a while while parting out a 240Z. Didn't have the correct lug nuts, but it worked fine for a car that wasn't going anywhere.

Another thought is that the largest Insultherm size is 1", at least on that website. Not large enough for radiator hoses.

Please keep us posted on any updates on this. I'd happily stay with braided if the were fresh and not absurdly expensive.

My car still has all of its braided hoses on it. And yes, some of them do look a touch faded. But I'm planning to go the other way. Since I don't trust 35 year old hoses - no matter how good they look - I will replace them all with modern hoses. I'll keep the originals, but for daily driving I'll put on modern hoses.

Yeah, Arne does. I saw that after the edit window closed. Fat fingers....

Is your car an automatic? Because the manual transmission 240Zs all came with single-point ignitions, the automatics had dual-point.

They were illegal in the USA at that time, so no US cars came with them from the factory, neither standard or as a factory option. Dealer installed at best.

Not pilot bearing, as there's no movement on that once the clutch pedal is released. If it varies with engine RPM, suspect the input shaft bearing, needle bearings between input and main shafts, or the countershaft bearings. If it varies with road speed, suspect the output bearing.

First, welcome, and very nice looking car! Looks like a great start. Re: the wheels - first, they aren't Enkeis, they just have Enkei caps in them. Since the Enkei caps fit, that tells me they are actually Appliance Wire mags, which are almost as appropriate to these cars as the more common slotted mags. Lots of us (myself included) actually like them. So much so that I just bought a set for my car, which are even now at the polishing shop. I'd actually love to have those Enkei caps from yours... Also, you mention that the car comes with "original" slot mags. While it is likely that the slots were installed by the dealer when it was new, they aren't truly "original" as the only wheels from the factory back then were narrow steel wheels with hubcaps. But slots were VERY common, so much so that lots of people assume they were "original". Last - 9005 red looks really good when it's right. That's what color my latest one is, too. Here's link to a picture in my gallery to give you an idea. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=23053&cat=500&ppuser=8596

Yup. Get the car back on the road by using the good motor, regardless of displacement. But definitely keep the L24 (assuming it is the numbers matching original) for future.

Should have been posted in the Classified Ads.

I don't know the difference between early and late grommets, and don't know which style mine might be. Cables are side-by-side. Grommet faces upwards. As shown in the attached picture, the long cable is closest to the engine. Hope this helps!

Note that the 7-74 wheel will be wider at 5.0", as opposed to the 4.5" of the earlier wheels. I've got a full set of almost new 4-71 wheels, but one is pretty corroded from a chemical spill where they were being stored. Don't know what I'll do with them, they're not quite right for my red car (a bit early date for it), but I doubt they're really worth much, considering how much they cost to ship.

Well, as the current owner of both a early '71 Series 1 and a late '71 Series 2, I'll add my thoughts. The engine number is a good match to the 12/70 date and VIN on the plate. But everything else I see is wrong. I'm ignoring the horizontal defroster, as enough of those rear windows have been replaced over the years to make that inconclusive. But the steering wheel is definitely not Series 1. And Galaxybj noted that both the dash and the console appear to be from a later car as well. The original color (seen in the dash picture just under the windshield) appears to be the later blue to me. But that's hard to tell from a picture. But it is blue, and the picture of the doorjamb plate shows the wheelhouse vinyl as either dirty white, or off-white. Blue Series 1 cars had either black or blue vinyl. White was matched with blue in '72, and off-white in '73. There are too many emissions stickers on the underside of the hood for a '71, too. The doorjamb VIN plate appears to show red paint across bottom from poor masking during a repaint. But there is no sign of red paint anywhere else on the car. So my best guess is that it is a '72 or '73 with a late '71 engine and the doorjamb VIN plate to match. I'd also love to know what the stamped VIN on the firewall says. Probably can't blame the current owner, I'll bet that engine swap happened years ago.

I believe the answer to that is "No." In fact, I'm pretty certain that tinted covers aren't legal much of anywhere.

Good luck finding a set, the OE covers haven't been available new for a long time. They show up now and then on eBay, but go for good money if they are complete.

The MGB was introduced in the Fall of 1962 as a '63 model. Nissan was making Roadsters that early?

1.) No reason H4 lights need covers. I guess some people don't want a rock to hit their lights. I have run H4 lights (at least 8 different brands) in every motor vehicle I have owned for the past 30+ years. Never covered a one of them. 2.) The gold car in the picture links below is EScanlon's, who has factory covers. (Note the chrome trim.) The white car has typical aftermarket covers. http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14710&d=1161634846 http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14708&d=1161634846 http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12916&d=1151089923 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/3321/medium/IMG_0821.jpg

Cool, can't wait to see it!

I haven't looked at any of mine lately. This has today's standards: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

Looking at the pictures, and gathering from this and other threads that all the stuff has been hooked up from scratch, my first step would be to use a multi-meter to verify that the wires to the coil and ballast resistor are correct. Especially checking the polarity on the coil itself. If the + and - terminals are reversed on the coil, or mixed up with the ballast resistor wires...

No, it says they are individual Mikuni 45mm motorcycle carbs. Which is confirmed on his website. Not normal Mikunis at all.

Well, I don't think anyone will disagree that it is a very competent performance car. I've got no argument with that. It IS good. But my complaint is the same as with almost any car made today - it lacks 'personality' or 'soul'. And that's just life these days. Modern cars have become incredibly good - but in doing so, they have lost their distinctiveness. Face it guys (and gals), the reason we own these cars is not because they are really great performance cars. My daily driver '96 328i will show it's taillights to any stock or mildly modified S30, either on the strip, track or winding mountain road. But if I want to go for a pleasure drive, I'll take my 240Z. Because it has personality.