Arne

Yup. Get the car back on the road by using the good motor, regardless of displacement. But definitely keep the L24 (assuming it is the numbers matching original) for future.

Should have been posted in the Classified Ads.

I don't know the difference between early and late grommets, and don't know which style mine might be. Cables are side-by-side. Grommet faces upwards. As shown in the attached picture, the long cable is closest to the engine. Hope this helps!

Note that the 7-74 wheel will be wider at 5.0", as opposed to the 4.5" of the earlier wheels. I've got a full set of almost new 4-71 wheels, but one is pretty corroded from a chemical spill where they were being stored. Don't know what I'll do with them, they're not quite right for my red car (a bit early date for it), but I doubt they're really worth much, considering how much they cost to ship.

Well, as the current owner of both a early '71 Series 1 and a late '71 Series 2, I'll add my thoughts. The engine number is a good match to the 12/70 date and VIN on the plate. But everything else I see is wrong. I'm ignoring the horizontal defroster, as enough of those rear windows have been replaced over the years to make that inconclusive. But the steering wheel is definitely not Series 1. And Galaxybj noted that both the dash and the console appear to be from a later car as well. The original color (seen in the dash picture just under the windshield) appears to be the later blue to me. But that's hard to tell from a picture. But it is blue, and the picture of the doorjamb plate shows the wheelhouse vinyl as either dirty white, or off-white. Blue Series 1 cars had either black or blue vinyl. White was matched with blue in '72, and off-white in '73. There are too many emissions stickers on the underside of the hood for a '71, too. The doorjamb VIN plate appears to show red paint across bottom from poor masking during a repaint. But there is no sign of red paint anywhere else on the car. So my best guess is that it is a '72 or '73 with a late '71 engine and the doorjamb VIN plate to match. I'd also love to know what the stamped VIN on the firewall says. Probably can't blame the current owner, I'll bet that engine swap happened years ago.

I believe the answer to that is "No." In fact, I'm pretty certain that tinted covers aren't legal much of anywhere.

Good luck finding a set, the OE covers haven't been available new for a long time. They show up now and then on eBay, but go for good money if they are complete.

The MGB was introduced in the Fall of 1962 as a '63 model. Nissan was making Roadsters that early?

1.) No reason H4 lights need covers. I guess some people don't want a rock to hit their lights. I have run H4 lights (at least 8 different brands) in every motor vehicle I have owned for the past 30+ years. Never covered a one of them. 2.) The gold car in the picture links below is EScanlon's, who has factory covers. (Note the chrome trim.) The white car has typical aftermarket covers. http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14710&d=1161634846 http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14708&d=1161634846 http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12916&d=1151089923 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/3321/medium/IMG_0821.jpg

Cool, can't wait to see it!

I haven't looked at any of mine lately. This has today's standards: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

Looking at the pictures, and gathering from this and other threads that all the stuff has been hooked up from scratch, my first step would be to use a multi-meter to verify that the wires to the coil and ballast resistor are correct. Especially checking the polarity on the coil itself. If the + and - terminals are reversed on the coil, or mixed up with the ballast resistor wires...

No, it says they are individual Mikuni 45mm motorcycle carbs. Which is confirmed on his website. Not normal Mikunis at all.

Well, I don't think anyone will disagree that it is a very competent performance car. I've got no argument with that. It IS good. But my complaint is the same as with almost any car made today - it lacks 'personality' or 'soul'. And that's just life these days. Modern cars have become incredibly good - but in doing so, they have lost their distinctiveness. Face it guys (and gals), the reason we own these cars is not because they are really great performance cars. My daily driver '96 328i will show it's taillights to any stock or mildly modified S30, either on the strip, track or winding mountain road. But if I want to go for a pleasure drive, I'll take my 240Z. Because it has personality.

I concur. They are 10 mm x 1.5 x 60 mm in length. 65 mm long will also work if that's your closest choice. The most commonly found generic bolts are either 50 mm long (too short) or 75 mm which is too long and will bottom out before they get tight.

A thought from the south end of the group, next summer I'd like to lead our little pack on a cruise up the McKenzie River. Probably not until early July, as a guess.

Recent inquiries to MSA indicate that the mast replacement kit is NLA.

I figured as much. I'm actually a lot more likely to sell my D hubcaps than I am these wires.

A friend of mine brought his girl friend's 10 year old grandson over today. Said 10 year old is a self taught car nut. Really fun to talk with, the kid absorbs car stuff like a sponge, and is surprisingly knowledgeable. He likes most anything automotive, and can spout specs and such from any modern sporty car, including the 350Z. But when we went into the garage to look at my 240Z, his jaw dropped. His comment was, "Cool! Why can't they make cars like this today?" Out of the mouths of babes...

Well, easy for me to say this now that I have a car with an uncracked original dash, but personally I'd rather have a restored dash with slightly wrong grain than a cap or a cover. And there are actually two choices (if not more) here in the states. Besides the outfit in Washington, there is also Just Dashes in Van Nuys, California. I have no experience with either to share, however.

Thanks, Chris. Surprisingly, they still work perfectly even after all these years.

I don't know if this will interest many people other than myself, but I wanted to share some pictures of the original spark plug leads that were still on my car when I bought it last month. The factory original leads each had the cylinder number printed on them, along with the manufacturer's name, and the 1971 of manufacture. Taking pictures that show this was harder than I expected, but note the name "YAZAKI" is visible, you can see that the leads for number 3 and 4 are the ones with the printing towards the camera, '1971' is clearly visible on number 3, and a repeated zig-zag symbol (Resistor?) is on both leads. All six plug leads have this same printing, with the proper number for the cylinder, of course. The coil lead is less legible, but the YAZAKI and zig-zag are visible, no number of course. These leads are no longer on my car, they have been packed up for safe-keeping. Just thought I'd share...

OK, I'd definitely like to find more info on these Mulholland struts, as I have a line on NOS Mulhollands, both 2351501 front and 2351502 rear. Call it silly, but I'd really prefer to have set of non-gas charged struts to use with my Euro Stage 1 springs. These days, that means either Koni, or something NOS like these Mulhollands. So if any more of you really long-time Z people have any recollections you can share, I'd still love to hear it.

Well, in that case look in the transmission tunnel on the other side. A manual transmission wiring harness will have a single pair of wires there, connecting to the reverse light switch. An automatic harness will have a second pair down in there, that will have had to have been spliced together somehow. So if your car has only two wires exiting the bundle on the right side of the transmission, it is a manual transmission harness. If there are four wires down there, it is an automatic harness, which would totally explain the wires that started this thread.

Take all of this with a grain of salt, as your 'local Z car expert' is only partly correct, at least concerning 71's. The two wires mentioned in this thread do appear to be similar to a pair that run down to the left side of an automatic transmission. If that was really what they were, they would have been for the kick-down modulator, not the starter interlock, which is located on the right side of the transmission. The reason this theory doesn't wash is that that pair of wires was not the only additional wires in the automatic harness. There would also need to be the extra pair in the right side of the tunnel mentioned above, plus there is an additional relay with several extra wires on the inner fender under the coil. Without those as well, I don't see how that car or harness could have been an automatic. Additionally, some automatics did NOT come with the clutch stop - my yellow car, for example. So that statement is not always true. The comment about the switch mount above the throttle is probably correct, however.