Arne

I concur. They are 10 mm x 1.5 x 60 mm in length. 65 mm long will also work if that's your closest choice. The most commonly found generic bolts are either 50 mm long (too short) or 75 mm which is too long and will bottom out before they get tight.

A thought from the south end of the group, next summer I'd like to lead our little pack on a cruise up the McKenzie River. Probably not until early July, as a guess.

Recent inquiries to MSA indicate that the mast replacement kit is NLA.

I figured as much. I'm actually a lot more likely to sell my D hubcaps than I am these wires.

A friend of mine brought his girl friend's 10 year old grandson over today. Said 10 year old is a self taught car nut. Really fun to talk with, the kid absorbs car stuff like a sponge, and is surprisingly knowledgeable. He likes most anything automotive, and can spout specs and such from any modern sporty car, including the 350Z. But when we went into the garage to look at my 240Z, his jaw dropped. His comment was, "Cool! Why can't they make cars like this today?" Out of the mouths of babes...

Well, easy for me to say this now that I have a car with an uncracked original dash, but personally I'd rather have a restored dash with slightly wrong grain than a cap or a cover. And there are actually two choices (if not more) here in the states. Besides the outfit in Washington, there is also Just Dashes in Van Nuys, California. I have no experience with either to share, however.

Thanks, Chris. Surprisingly, they still work perfectly even after all these years.

I don't know if this will interest many people other than myself, but I wanted to share some pictures of the original spark plug leads that were still on my car when I bought it last month. The factory original leads each had the cylinder number printed on them, along with the manufacturer's name, and the 1971 of manufacture. Taking pictures that show this was harder than I expected, but note the name "YAZAKI" is visible, you can see that the leads for number 3 and 4 are the ones with the printing towards the camera, '1971' is clearly visible on number 3, and a repeated zig-zag symbol (Resistor?) is on both leads. All six plug leads have this same printing, with the proper number for the cylinder, of course. The coil lead is less legible, but the YAZAKI and zig-zag are visible, no number of course. These leads are no longer on my car, they have been packed up for safe-keeping. Just thought I'd share...

OK, I'd definitely like to find more info on these Mulholland struts, as I have a line on NOS Mulhollands, both 2351501 front and 2351502 rear. Call it silly, but I'd really prefer to have set of non-gas charged struts to use with my Euro Stage 1 springs. These days, that means either Koni, or something NOS like these Mulhollands. So if any more of you really long-time Z people have any recollections you can share, I'd still love to hear it.

Well, in that case look in the transmission tunnel on the other side. A manual transmission wiring harness will have a single pair of wires there, connecting to the reverse light switch. An automatic harness will have a second pair down in there, that will have had to have been spliced together somehow. So if your car has only two wires exiting the bundle on the right side of the transmission, it is a manual transmission harness. If there are four wires down there, it is an automatic harness, which would totally explain the wires that started this thread.

Take all of this with a grain of salt, as your 'local Z car expert' is only partly correct, at least concerning 71's. The two wires mentioned in this thread do appear to be similar to a pair that run down to the left side of an automatic transmission. If that was really what they were, they would have been for the kick-down modulator, not the starter interlock, which is located on the right side of the transmission. The reason this theory doesn't wash is that that pair of wires was not the only additional wires in the automatic harness. There would also need to be the extra pair in the right side of the tunnel mentioned above, plus there is an additional relay with several extra wires on the inner fender under the coil. Without those as well, I don't see how that car or harness could have been an automatic. Additionally, some automatics did NOT come with the clutch stop - my yellow car, for example. So that statement is not always true. The comment about the switch mount above the throttle is probably correct, however.

:mad: Not good news, because I need one as well. The motor in mine runs fine, but the mast doesn't move. That's going to pose a problem.

You know what I meant... :laugh:

Well, I'm at a loss then. It sounds to me as though your car was always a manual transmission car, and there aren't enough extra wires for the harness to have been for an automatic, either.

Henry, I found the part numbers for the original stickers and tried to order them from the dealer. The numbers were still good, but none were found. I have considered seeing if a local sign shop could tool up for vinyl stickers that small. Haven't ever gotten around to it yet.

What ignition do you have? And is there a small relay attached to the left inner fender below the coil?

Yeah, but that doesn't explain the guy he out-bid. The dude has 200+ feedback but still bid $602. :stupid:I sure hope those same people need a gas tank, I've got one on eBay now, could use a few bidders like that.

Your car would look dang good with a set, Dave.

--- sigh! --- :surprised

Here's a related question - anyone know of a source for those odd little angled valve stems that the Appliance mesh wheels came with? The four wheels I found had only one stem in them.

I think it should. Aftermarket steering wheel hubs are the same for 70-83.

Also give some thought to the fact that a big bar in the rear on a car with an open diff can actually slow you down when autocrossing (or other hard cornering), as the bar tends to unload the inside rear tire in really hard cornering, making for lots of wheelspin. When I was autocrossing in my old 323i, I disconnected the rear bar for best times. Later I installed a limited slip and could then leave the bar hooked up.

Which also explains why I couldn't find them on the Parts CD. They are packing material. How interesting.Now to decide -- do I remove mine, as they should have been removed long ago? Or do I leave them on as curiosities?

Oh my yes, please don't include post numbers as part of the reputation formula. Sheer number of posts means nothing. Perhaps what I've been able to share has been helpful to some. But I'm continually shocked to see how many times I've posted in the almost 18 months I've been part of this site. Goodness, over 100 posts per month! Don't tell my wife or my boss!

Thank you Carl! I wasn't aware of that. Makes total sense. But it also makes me wonder what other prep steps the dealer that originally sold my car skipped!