Arne

Yes, trying to replate the smog stuff would be real difficult. Was there any of the original stencilling left on the parts to try to match?

Darrel, I have an early driveshaft that is already out of the car. I'll try to remember to dig it out and measure it for you. If you don't hear from me soon, PM me.

Nope, mechanicals can fail in just this manner. I've had it happen just like this on Chevy V8s. The diaphragm can be affected by heat - get it warm and it stops pumping. Let it cool and pumping resumes.

It would be helpful if you entered your location in your profile, Ron. That way some of us may be able to help you find one.

Uncertain, Marty. The factory fiche shows a different driveshaft assembly for up to 8/71, and 9/71 on. But all the individual components (main shaft, and yokes on both ends) are the same up through 11/74.

If you used a paint that simulates cast aluminum it'd probably look fine. I have already begun cleaning mine using a mild acid-cleaner designed for chrome wheels and hubcaps. It also claimed to be good for cast aluminum wheels, but warns against using on polished wheels. Sure enough, it really dulls the polished areas, but does a really good job of cleaning the cast areas.There are two drawbacks to it - the obvious one of needing to re-polish the wheels afterwards, and also that while it will clean corrosion and dirt off nicely, it won't eat through road tar or paint. I found that some of mine had paint between the spokes, and the acid cleaner does nothing much to it. So I'm going to have mine dipped and stripped first, then polished. If necessary, I will paint between the spokes later.

I already had that thread bookmarked, as these were one of my preferred choices for this new car.

Nothing new from me. While I was researching this I got distracted and purchased a vintage set of 14x6 Appliance Wire Mags instead. So now I'm no longer looking into Konig caps, but preparing to order aftermarket caps for my Appliances instead, which are in the middle of being polished.

Could be the filter problem, but not fusible links. The fusible links are electrical, and they either work or they don't. Not intermittent. Another thought is fuel pump(s). They can fail when hot but work when cold...

Is your head still the E88 square port?

Marty Rogan had this problem too. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21180 And his solution: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21533

I love my club CD, it's in my laptop's drive all the time.

When I yarded the ZX engine out of my '71, it only had the bracket on the front, not on the rear. I borrowed a rear bracket from my other car. Perhaps there's another Z-er in your area who could loan you brackets? Or you could simply bolt the chain to the same bolts/studs/holes that the brackets would use.

This has been addressed so many times it's not funny. Take a look through the Tire/Wheel section. Or do a quick search. Or find a good local tire/wheel shop with knowledgeable people and ask them to help you.

The fact that you know where you run at all probably explains it!! I don't think these diffs like drag racing...

Since this type of part is typically used for racing, I think you'll find that warranties are rarely (if ever) available. I can say that I have seen the ones in the link below in person, and they are absolutely first rate. http://zenthusiasts.com/3.html

I suspect it's a good $4000 to maybe $5000 car. Appears to be some rust in the right front mud trap, but that's easily dealt with. If the expensive and hard to find parts (bumpers, hubcaps, taillights, console, dash) are as good as they look in the pictures, it could be a really nice buy.

In my experience, the most affordable way to get a decent engine is to buy a parts car. Rusty or wrecked, but find one that will start, so you can assess the engine. As a side benefit, you can look for something with the five speed at the same time and kill two birds with one stone. Seems like Craigslist in the Bay Area frequently has Z/ZX cars and parts posted.

I have PIAA's on our regular car, and like them.

No. Dogma's real name is also Dave. I took so long to type my reply (stopped for lunch in the middle) that you got in before me.Good to see you back, Dave (Zs-ondabrain).

That'd be pretty simple, Dave. In the wiring behind the radio you'll find a blue wire with an inline fuse that connects to a red wire in the mini-harness from the fan switch to the fan. That's your hot power to the fan, and where the relay need to connect. Relays have four terminals. One is a ground (often identified as '86'). Another is the hot lead, in this case from the battery ('30'). You'll want to use a good sized wire from the battery to the relay, and you'll want to put a 20 amp fuse or circuit breaker in it. I like to connect these things to the starter solenoid, not the battery terminal itself. (Just looks cleaner to me.) The trigger wire ('85') is the blue lead with the old fuse. That fuse should probably be replaced with a much lower amperage, probably a 5 amp or so. The new switched power lead from the relay ('87') goes to the red wire that was connected to the blue one. This is less than ideal in a couple of ways, but about the only reasonable way to do it. One, the new relay will be triggered anytime the accessory position on the ignition is on, but to try to do it closer to the switch is problematic for this type of device with multiple speeds. Second, because we must do this upstream of the switch, there is still a fair amount of old wiring through which the current must pass. So the results may not be as dramatic as you might hope. But it might be worth a try...

Gary, my red car is all assembled, so I can't see these on it. But the heater console is not in the yellow car (10/70), and the parts car's dash and harness (4/71) are in the spare bedroom, so here's what I found. Photo 1 - Blue inline fuses (not fusible links, BTW). It looks like the one with the spade is for the rear defroster switch. The bullet is for the heater fan (see red bullet in photo 3). The 'T' connector is the optional fuel pump wiring. Photo 2 - I can't find a red/black with a spade on it in either of mine. In the yellow car, the blue bullet is marked as the map light power. Photo 3 - Blue is unused. Black is grounded via one of the phillips screws inside the dash. Red connects to the blue bullet inline fuse (see photo 1 above).

No reason the ZG flares can't be painted to match...