Arne

Is your head still the E88 square port?

Marty Rogan had this problem too. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21180 And his solution: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21533

I love my club CD, it's in my laptop's drive all the time.

When I yarded the ZX engine out of my '71, it only had the bracket on the front, not on the rear. I borrowed a rear bracket from my other car. Perhaps there's another Z-er in your area who could loan you brackets? Or you could simply bolt the chain to the same bolts/studs/holes that the brackets would use.

This has been addressed so many times it's not funny. Take a look through the Tire/Wheel section. Or do a quick search. Or find a good local tire/wheel shop with knowledgeable people and ask them to help you.

The fact that you know where you run at all probably explains it!! I don't think these diffs like drag racing...

Since this type of part is typically used for racing, I think you'll find that warranties are rarely (if ever) available. I can say that I have seen the ones in the link below in person, and they are absolutely first rate. http://zenthusiasts.com/3.html

I suspect it's a good $4000 to maybe $5000 car. Appears to be some rust in the right front mud trap, but that's easily dealt with. If the expensive and hard to find parts (bumpers, hubcaps, taillights, console, dash) are as good as they look in the pictures, it could be a really nice buy.

In my experience, the most affordable way to get a decent engine is to buy a parts car. Rusty or wrecked, but find one that will start, so you can assess the engine. As a side benefit, you can look for something with the five speed at the same time and kill two birds with one stone. Seems like Craigslist in the Bay Area frequently has Z/ZX cars and parts posted.

I have PIAA's on our regular car, and like them.

No. Dogma's real name is also Dave. I took so long to type my reply (stopped for lunch in the middle) that you got in before me.Good to see you back, Dave (Zs-ondabrain).

That'd be pretty simple, Dave. In the wiring behind the radio you'll find a blue wire with an inline fuse that connects to a red wire in the mini-harness from the fan switch to the fan. That's your hot power to the fan, and where the relay need to connect. Relays have four terminals. One is a ground (often identified as '86'). Another is the hot lead, in this case from the battery ('30'). You'll want to use a good sized wire from the battery to the relay, and you'll want to put a 20 amp fuse or circuit breaker in it. I like to connect these things to the starter solenoid, not the battery terminal itself. (Just looks cleaner to me.) The trigger wire ('85') is the blue lead with the old fuse. That fuse should probably be replaced with a much lower amperage, probably a 5 amp or so. The new switched power lead from the relay ('87') goes to the red wire that was connected to the blue one. This is less than ideal in a couple of ways, but about the only reasonable way to do it. One, the new relay will be triggered anytime the accessory position on the ignition is on, but to try to do it closer to the switch is problematic for this type of device with multiple speeds. Second, because we must do this upstream of the switch, there is still a fair amount of old wiring through which the current must pass. So the results may not be as dramatic as you might hope. But it might be worth a try...

Gary, my red car is all assembled, so I can't see these on it. But the heater console is not in the yellow car (10/70), and the parts car's dash and harness (4/71) are in the spare bedroom, so here's what I found. Photo 1 - Blue inline fuses (not fusible links, BTW). It looks like the one with the spade is for the rear defroster switch. The bullet is for the heater fan (see red bullet in photo 3). The 'T' connector is the optional fuel pump wiring. Photo 2 - I can't find a red/black with a spade on it in either of mine. In the yellow car, the blue bullet is marked as the map light power. Photo 3 - Blue is unused. Black is grounded via one of the phillips screws inside the dash. Red connects to the blue bullet inline fuse (see photo 1 above).

No reason the ZG flares can't be painted to match...

Choices were a 4 speed manual, or a 3 speed automatic. No factory 5 speed option in North America until 1977. Swapping in a 5 speed is common. Use the search feature here and you'll find lots of data on it.

You can't measure the float level by measuring the fuel in the bowl with the cover off, because the float itself displaces fuel. Done that way, it should look very low. Fact is, adjusting the float level is the most critical basic adjustment for the SU carbs. It is also a bit fussy to do just right. And it is also something that should NOT have to be done repeatedly, as once set it shouldn't change on its own. Here is a good thread with lots of good advice on getting this done properly, especially a great tip from the SU gurus at ZTherapy (Bruce Palmer). I'd sit down and read the whole thing from start to finish. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19362

Another vote for SEM, it works is great! I haven't used it on a Datsun, but I have used it on other car interior parts (both hard plastic and soft vinyl) with great success.

And do you recall how you liked the Mulhollands? Harsh?Who made the Mulholland shocks for them?

Thanks, Carl. Any idea what part numbers 35-1501 and 1502 might be? I'm told they are Interpart strut inserts for 240Z/early 260Z, and that they may be Mulholland. Thoughts?

Does anybody here have an old Interpart catalog? I would like to find out the manufacturer and part number of the strut inserts they used to sell.

Tough $xxx to him. It's your car. These cars were built to drive and to enjoy. Very few were ever left totally stock when they were new, it's the kind of car that owners like to play with. If he wants to keep his all stock, fine. But chastising you for wanting to go a different direction with yours, that's plain rude. If he doesn't like it, tell him to buy it from you and then he car "restore" it to his standards, not yours.

After having bought a early carbed car that had been converted to later fuel injection, I'd recommend against the turbo bit, unless you are willing to devote a lot of time and effort to it. On the other hand, a good 280ZX motor with a mild cam and those SU carbs is a very rewarding motor, looks virtually stock, and very simple to install, since everything external (except the fuel pump) bolts right up. Just my opinion, though.

No, you are absolutely correct, Will. When I sold tires in my past career (OMG, I've been out of tires for almost 9 years now!), we would never have sold a fitment like that. Tire manufacturers all have fitment charts that say what size rims are safe and suitable for each size tire.Looking in 240zzt's gallery, his rear Wats are 9.5" and he is using 245/45ZR16 Fuzion tires. According to the specs for that tire at the Tire Rack, the approved rim widths are 7.5-9.0". So his wheels are wider than the tires were designed to fit. In most parts of the world, the tire dealers would not be allowed to do stuff like that. And the car wouldn't pass inspection that way most anywhere but here in the USA. Even if safety and tire wear wasn't a concern (and it is), here's a thought: If one of those tires develops a small leak and gets a bit low on pressure, the tire could easily pop itself off the bead, since it is stretched so tight. And if it does, that is one very expensive wheel that will hit the pavement.

Chris, they look like Datsun-supplied (and re-labled) Bosch lights? How in the world did you find those?

I am certain that this has been done before. Have you searched on hybridz.org?