Arne

I saw those. If I lived closer I'd have tried to beat you to them.

Both are aftermarket. "Dealer options" were just whatever aftermarket brand was available to the dealer at the time. Different brands were sold by different dealers. Both are appropriate, the Shelbys perhaps a small bit more so as they are (if I recall correctly) a bit older. It is likely that the Appliance wheels date from the mid-70's. But either is good, I'd be pleased to have either of those matched sets on my car.

Well, I'd heard that as well, mostly from magazines and the like. Road & Track made that claim back in the early '80s, and it's been batted around ever since. The reasoning was that by '72, there had been some noticable improvements to the 240Z, such as improved position of the rear differential, stronger transmission, and better design for interior ventiation. But in '73 the driveability and horsepower went south because of emissions control. The '73s had slightly larger front bumpers as well, and were a bit heavier. So '72 was supposed to be the "prime" year for this car. But by today, most of that is immaterial. The early Series 1 cars (with the "bad" ventilation, "bad" differential position and "weak" transmission) are typically considered to be more "collectible" and still make great drivers. And many of the '73s by now have early carbs on them, which corrects their biggest short-coming. So these days, I consider the notion that the '72s are the "best" to be out-dated.

Try tightening it as before, but mark the position of the bolt on the upper mount. That way you can determine if the adjustment is changing, or if there is some other issue.

Sorry, no plans to come to Idaho any time soon, Brock. But if I'm understanding your description, your problem is not an actual miss, but a loud ticking noise that goes away when you take away the spark. Since the noise stops then, and also because the engine slows down, I'm pretty certain that the cylinder IS firing. I'm also afraid that you have more serious problems in the lower end - perhaps a bad rod bearing or possibly a wrist pin. But more likely a rod bearing. The noise goes away when the spark is pulled because that piston is then coasting.

Nice find, Justin. You may want to consider swapping in a 280 motor rather than rebuilding the 260. Depending on the supply of 280ZXs where you live, a good L28 could be lots more affordable than rebuilding. I really like those six spoke ZX wheels on a car with a body kit. Looks really good. I actually have a set, but I don't think they look as good on a stock 240Z.

And therein lies the problem for me. When I restore a car (like my current 240Z or my previous MGB), I drive it when it's done. A lot. In fact, with the MG, it was my daily driver for over 4 years. And I've yet to find collector insurance which will allow that.

It is a re-spray, all the emblems have been shaved.

The later hatches will fit the 240s, but don't have the rear vents that I Series 1 car came with. My car came with a 280 hatch on it when I bought it.But it's not hard to add threaded holes, a couple of nut-serts would do it.

Yeah, at least the early 240Zs have only one. There are no holes or captive nuts on the right side where the second one went on the 280Zs. Interestingly though, even my Series 1 hatch has a recess stamped in the hatch sheet metal where a second one would attach.

The wiring is worth that much, if it is intact and unmolested. Which it probably isn't, or it would be priced higher. "If it sounds too good to be true..."

Hmm. Make certain that the butterflies are opening all the way when you floor the pedal. If the linkage is bent or mis-adjusted, you might not be getting full throttle opening.

I've seen used ones on eBay go for as much as $80 or so. I actually have two good ones - one on my car, and one still on the parts car. Both hold their hatches open nicely. I haven't decided if I dare sell the extra one, as soon as I do the other one will probably fail.

As best I recall, no. Only 16x7.

Nope, nothing like that on the early 240Z's, for example. The wiring changes lots from year to year.As for your issue, I've not played with wiring on a Z that new, so I can't advise you on it.

It would help a lot if we knew what year and model car you are working on...

You can remove the domes without any special parts on hand. Just make certain to keep the parts matched - I normally only remove one at a time to ensure that I don't mix anything up. Lots of SU info available on the 'net, and the video from ZTherapy is very good as well.

I'll second that. It might surprize you to find how many old and obscure parts are still available, if you give the dealer the part number instead of asking them to look it up.

You might want to try using the search function here on the site, I'm certain you'll find some good info. I have gone from injection to carbs, but not the 4 bbl, just the stock SUs. The tech article I wrote on the subject is at: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21574 You may want to consider using the SUs, the performance is about the same, probably better economy, and cheaper, even if you go all the way and have a set remanufactured (see ZTherapy). I'll be posting my spare set on eBay soon, complete with manifold, heat shield, linkage and springs.

Check for corrosion and/or dirt/carbon/etc inside the dome. The piston rises and falls from vacuum and so the clearances between the piston and the inside of the dome are very tight. Any crud inside or damage to the outside edge of the piston or inside of the dome will cause this.

If you find one, let me know and I'll ship these out to you. Or if you find some other small-but-fun/necessary part instead, I'm all ears.

I have six varied original Japanese wheel weights that came on a late '71 240Z. Or rather, came on the set of wheels I picked up a while back from a late '71. These weights are remarkably simple, with almost no casting marks on them. One has '30' (the weight in grams, I assume) barely visible, and I think I can almost make out a '40' on the larger one. One has a small dent in the lead, not certain where that came from. Would these be something that one of you that are doing the nuts and bolts restoration might like to have? I'm not looking for cash for these, but would entertain interesting or useful small items in trade. (For example, I'd love to find a map light lens-only.) Any interest?

Be careful with the 215/60-14s though. Depending on the offset of your wheels and whether the car has been lowered (or even just 'settled' over the years) you could have clearance issues in the front while turning. I'd recommend test fitting one on the front before you go for this size. While they don't look as wide, I plan to go with 195/70-14 on mine. Those are the same height as the original 175-14 (and came stock on the 280Z), and shouldn't cause clearance issues on any normal wheels.

Way too short, and a bit narrow, assuming your wheels are truly 7" wide. I have 206/60-14 on mine, and hate them, as they are still too short as well. I'd recommend 215/60-14 to even get close to stock height.But then again, some people like really short tires. I'm just not one of them. I want the tire to look proportionate in the wheel opening.

They're not hard to tune yourself, just takes time and a bit of knowledge. The knowledge can be acquired by purchasing ZTherapy's video.