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Arne

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Everything posted by Arne

  1. OK, that helps. So when I get my new exhaust built with 2 1/4", even if I don't get mandrel bent it looks like I'll still be at least equal to stock.
  2. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Yeah, I remember yours, and I do recall that there were a few companies that made those wheels (generally called "turbines" by those of us in the wheel business in those days) without the flat area around the hub. Can't come up with a name right now, but if I think of it later I'll let you know. I know that they WEREN'T Westerns...
  3. I did a bit of searching, and never saw this spec. Does anyone know what the diameter of the factory stock 240Z exhaust pipes were?
  4. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    I've seen a few old four-lug six-slots, not sure if they were Dragmaster or not. Didn't Victor Laury have a set?
  5. Oregon does allow plates to be moved from car to car, with some limitations. The red tag on a plate beginning with 'H' indicates it's registered through Aug. '07. The yellow plates were issued from very late '73 through '87. So while they are 'vintage' plates, they aren't quite vintage enough for most 240Zs. Most people in Oregon (myself included) would prefer the earlier blue plates which most 240Zs would have been issued.
  6. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Unlike the five-slots which were made by every US wheel company and their dog as well, I'm pretty sure that only one company made the six-slots, and there may have only been one size for the Z. But while I'm pretty certain I've heard who made those, the name escapes me at present.
  7. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    When I sold wheels back in the day, you could easily get either width in many brands. (Some brands were 5.5" instead of 6".) Neither are especially rare, but 6" are a bit more common.
  8. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    When I bought my car, the PO had used a thick fiber (paper) washer and RTV on mine. I bought a coper washer at a local parts house, it was something like 50 cents. Take the plug with you to match it up, if you can.
  9. Arne posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Depending on the year and axle ratio, that's in the right ballpark. With the 3.54:1 ratio that was stock for the early automatics, the speedometer should read approximately 19 MPH per 1000 RPM. That doesn't factor in tire height, but tire height only affects true speed, not the relationship of the speedo to the tach.
  10. The adapters are still available, details and contact info can be found at: http://home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/alt-adapt.html
  11. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    There are two parts to this question. One is what is the widest tire (of a semi-approriate height) that will fit on a 7" wide wheel? While this will vary a little from brand to brand, for the most part the answer is 225 mm wide. 225's will be a bit pinched on a 7" but will fit. But part two is just as important. And that is how wide (and tall) a wheel and tire combo will fit your car? And the answer there is more complex. Because it depends on both the effective offset of your wheels (including any spacers), and the particular suspension you have on the car. So the answer is - we don't have enough data to answer.
  12. Arne posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Yes, it is welded in both cars.
  13. Arne posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Yeah, looks pretty much the same as mine, as best I can see in the picture. I'd be really surprised if that cross-brace/bracket wasn't spot-welded in place. Here's mine:
  14. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Certainly is.It is interesting to note how many of the 12xxx cars were automatics. Certainly 12403 (funz1z), 12658 (yours), and 12746 (mine, originally). Seems to me I've heard of others right in this area too. Apparently Nissan cranked out a big batch of automatics in October, 1970.
  15. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    I saw those. If I lived closer I'd have tried to beat you to them.
  16. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Both are aftermarket. "Dealer options" were just whatever aftermarket brand was available to the dealer at the time. Different brands were sold by different dealers. Both are appropriate, the Shelbys perhaps a small bit more so as they are (if I recall correctly) a bit older. It is likely that the Appliance wheels date from the mid-70's. But either is good, I'd be pleased to have either of those matched sets on my car.
  17. Well, I'd heard that as well, mostly from magazines and the like. Road & Track made that claim back in the early '80s, and it's been batted around ever since. The reasoning was that by '72, there had been some noticable improvements to the 240Z, such as improved position of the rear differential, stronger transmission, and better design for interior ventiation. But in '73 the driveability and horsepower went south because of emissions control. The '73s had slightly larger front bumpers as well, and were a bit heavier. So '72 was supposed to be the "prime" year for this car. But by today, most of that is immaterial. The early Series 1 cars (with the "bad" ventilation, "bad" differential position and "weak" transmission) are typically considered to be more "collectible" and still make great drivers. And many of the '73s by now have early carbs on them, which corrects their biggest short-coming. So these days, I consider the notion that the '72s are the "best" to be out-dated.
  18. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Try tightening it as before, but mark the position of the bolt on the upper mount. That way you can determine if the adjustment is changing, or if there is some other issue.
  19. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Sorry, no plans to come to Idaho any time soon, Brock. But if I'm understanding your description, your problem is not an actual miss, but a loud ticking noise that goes away when you take away the spark. Since the noise stops then, and also because the engine slows down, I'm pretty certain that the cylinder IS firing. I'm also afraid that you have more serious problems in the lower end - perhaps a bad rod bearing or possibly a wrist pin. But more likely a rod bearing. The noise goes away when the spark is pulled because that piston is then coasting.
  20. Arne posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Nice find, Justin. You may want to consider swapping in a 280 motor rather than rebuilding the 260. Depending on the supply of 280ZXs where you live, a good L28 could be lots more affordable than rebuilding. I really like those six spoke ZX wheels on a car with a body kit. Looks really good. I actually have a set, but I don't think they look as good on a stock 240Z.
  21. And therein lies the problem for me. When I restore a car (like my current 240Z or my previous MGB), I drive it when it's done. A lot. In fact, with the MG, it was my daily driver for over 4 years. And I've yet to find collector insurance which will allow that.
  22. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    It is a re-spray, all the emblems have been shaved.
  23. Arne posted a post in a topic in Interior
    The later hatches will fit the 240s, but don't have the rear vents that I Series 1 car came with. My car came with a 280 hatch on it when I bought it.But it's not hard to add threaded holes, a couple of nut-serts would do it.
  24. Arne posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Yeah, at least the early 240Zs have only one. There are no holes or captive nuts on the right side where the second one went on the 280Zs. Interestingly though, even my Series 1 hatch has a recess stamped in the hatch sheet metal where a second one would attach.
  25. The wiring is worth that much, if it is intact and unmolested. Which it probably isn't, or it would be priced higher. "If it sounds too good to be true..."
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