Arne

Will, don't share that info! That's how I get my best buys on eBay too! Typos ROCK!

Hadn't thought about excluding sellers, but it's not a bad idea. Might work better than my normal filter does, or the two might work well in tandem. My filter includes some of the same type of things, plus a few things I'm not interested in. -baseball -diamond -projector -leather -antenna -tokico -nology -weber In other words - no baseball caps, wierd headlights, antennas, tokico shocks, nology plug wires or Weber carbs. Even so, my results are typically 14-17 pages.

Well kats, HLS30-12746 (10/70) has the "tapered long leg" mirror. (No red dot, of course.) But HLS30-27602 (4/71) has the short leg mirror. So the change was apparently between those dates.

You're right, Chris. I should have figured out the backspace myself. Not like me when it comes to wheels. Must have been tired last night.Go for them Mike.

Those little Hondas are not very common here in the states, especially a right-hooker. Can't remember the last time I saw one. Probably 20 years, at least. Pretty significant model, as it was Honda's first mass-marketed automobile. http://www.hondas600.com/ http://www.highwayone.com/Classifieds/Honda/02caae.html http://www.microcarmuseum.com/tour/honda-s600.html

$88 from Courtesy Nissan. Your local Nissan dealer might match that price as well. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=17208-S3074

Offset seems a touch high, everything else is OK. Might need spacers to keep them from rubbing on the strut tubes.

Both of my '71's have the monster-sized caps too. The MSA catalog shows '70-76 as all the same. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SFC05/11-3221

Your best bet for this type of question is to visit HybridZ.org as those folks do this kind of thing all the time.

In the early cars, I don't believe there is any difference between auto and manual driveshafts. I used the auto driveshaft with my Type A four speed when I converted. Do you think you need an early (short) driveshaft, Dave? I should have a spare one soon. Can't vouch for the condition of the u-joints, you'd probably want to replace them.

No Enrique, you were right the first time, the sender provides a decreasing resistance to ground as the pressure rises. I have tested mine that way to verify that.

Yeah, and I have some pictures for you as well.Both the harness in my car and my spare harness have five wires in the regulator connector. See the pictures attached below. (I rotated the images so that they would be oriented the same as yours.) Judging from this, the three wires in the bottom row should be (left to right) solid black, white w/black stripe, black w/white stripe. In yours, the top row appears to have only a yellow wire at the far left. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the single wire in your car is white. (Remember that most of the white wires on these cars will have yellowed over the years.) The adapter is designed to bridge the white/black to black/white (with diode) and the white to yellow. The solid black is unused. Now as to why someone would hack this up, I don't know. And I really don't know if this has any bearing on your oil pressure gauge problem. It could, though. And it could definitely have a bearing on the non-functioning ammeter. But to fix it, you either want the white wire back into the middle spot on the top row, or you could splice it directly into the yellow one. Either way does the same thing.

Stephan, the picture of the alternator itself looks fine. But I am confused about the extra wire at the connector for the adapter/regulator. The connector on the wiring harness should have five wires going into it - yours has only four, with the probable fifth wire being separate with an aftermarket crimp blade terminal on it. Now, this is not necessarily bad, as the adapter only connects normally to four of the five wires. But your comment that the ammeter doesn't work either gives me pause. Can you clean the black paint off those wires and find out what colors they all are? Also look into the connector on the harness, and see if is looks like a wire has been snipped from there. It would also be helpful if you could identify which colors connect to which terminal in the connector.

They are not the same.

Still sounds like your carbs are too rich, though. Lack of advance won't cause sooty plugs.

But by 12746 (10/70) they changed. Mine are the later style.

No. All were 14", in all markets.

I got the header pulled off the parts car today, and comparing it with this picture from opelbits' gallery, it appears to be a Hooker SuperComp. The only difference is that mine doesn't seem to have the Hooker label braised on the tube. Other than that it seems to be identical. There is a number stamped on the flange - 8111. No idea how that relates to anything. Anyone have any experience with this header? Not that it will make any difference, I'll use it anyway, but I am curious...

It's unanimous so far, I also have the ZX ignition on my car, works very well.

Tom, if the 260Z cooling hoses and piping are the same as the 240Z, all that stuff is available from the dealer, and is surprisingly affordable. I am replacing everything in the cooling system of mine, every hose, pipe and connector. I would also have been surprised if the coolant from the manifold had NOT been gunky. I'm assuming the manifold passages on the '74 260Z are similar to those on the '72 240Z, and I suspect that the Weber manifold adapters block the passages, and so no coolant is flowing thought them, it's just sitting there stagnating. If it were me, in that case I'd just plug the system off at the thermostat housing and the T-fitting. The engine in my parts car turns over nice and freely, but the cylinders have had some ATF in them since last weekend, just because. I'm shooting for swapping it and firing it up over Labor Day weekend. I'll keep you posted.

Oh my, I had no idea. I wonder which style #12746 has? I'll have to check it when I get home. I was planning to save the vinyl from #27602 for spares, but if the pattern is different...

I plan to stay with 14" to keep the total "period-correct" look, but if I were going to use 15", for street use I'd go with the 205/60s myself.

Understood, Randy. I agree that the Enkei caps are not as attractive.Here's a thought - I can't remember if the Appliance wheels have a taper machined at the back side of the center hole or not. But if they do, the caps in the link below may work. They are 2.95" so that they could be pushed through from behind. But you'd need to be certain that the lip at the base of the cap doesn't interfere with the proper mounting of the wheel to the face of the hub/drum. http://www.gorilla-auto.com/products/?sfID1=270&sfID2=271&productName=HC189+2.95%22+closed&image=6159.jpg

Yeah, that's my guess as well.

The two most popular 15" sizes for a Z are 205/60-15 and 225/50-15. The 205/60 is very close (within 2-3%) to the height and overall diameter of the stock 195/70-14, and will keep the speedo reasonably accurate. 225/50 is wider, and potentially better handling, but typically harsher riding, and quicker wearing. It is also a bit shorter than stock, and so your speedo will read a bit faster than actual speed.