Arne

Welcome, Tom. The Oregon contingent here is mostly centered farther north (no surprise), but there are a fair number of us. Keep us posted on how it goes.

If the area is the same, so is the restriction - or lack there of. I can't see where this would have any noticeable effect at all.

Depending on how my engine swap over Labor Day weekend goes, my car MIGHT be road-worthy for the Mt. St. Helens run. Might have to give it a shot. Won't be pretty, but...

Several weeks now. Still gaining 3-5 minutes per week. I might have to try to slow it down some, but I'd likely go way too far, so I'll probably leave it as is.

What color will she be?

True, that would do it too.

Check for a bad ground in the rear body wiring.

Great write-up for the electronic clocks. Good job! Admins - can this thread maybe be moved into the Tech Articles area?

Nope. The '70 and early '71s are different. I've got both styles. Slight difference in the bulb function, and a different size connector plug. You'll need the ones from 1/71 or later for a '73.

The horn pad should still be available from the dealer. At least, Courtesy still has them. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=240Z-HORN

Without seeing them in person and disassembling them to see what is wrong? No. You're either going to have to tear it apart to see what you can find, or pay someone to do so for you.

Umm, no. That's not right. You have two separate problems, different for each door. On the passenger door, it sounds to me as thought the lock tumblers are jammed. On the driver's door, I'm betting there is a broken or disconnected spring in the lock/latch mechanism.

I'm not certain those are original. the parts CD shows springs for all 240/260/280Z. I'm certain that my '71 doesn't have anything like that, I just changed the cable a few months ago.

Huh? What year car? My '71 uses small springs, not rubber. The parts CD seems to agree, for all non-ZX cars. See number 27 in the picture attached.

I'm running an electric pump currently, and it is the same way. So I think that is normal.

The pictures aren't clear, even at full 7.2 mega-pixel resolution. I'll try to remember to look at them in the daylight some time soon. Prod me if you don't hear back in a few days.

Keith, if you can live with something not exactly original, using later ball joints with the steering knuckles from a later car will bolt right in, and be visually indistinguishable from stock - unless they disassemble the car to check. The knuckles from my parts car went to a7dz for that exact reason.

Yup. The yellow car is #12746, blue car is #27602.

No worries, Bryan. I've got plenty of wheels. I was just being lazy. I'll clean up my odd wheel. And thanks for the offer, but I prefer to to have you guys up north owe me. Someday I'll need something important. The date code is stamped into the face of the wheel, following the manufacturer's name (Topy). The wheel in the linked picture is a 4/71. http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12497&d=1148696800

I remembered this thread while stripping my parts car this weekend. You may recall that my Series 1 car (10/70, #12746) had the screws in the door panels. Turns out my parts car (4/71, #27602) does not.Well, I have some of the panels off, and took the attached picture. The upper panel is the left panel from the Series 1 car, the lower is from the later car. Note that the Series 1 panel lacks the holes in the back-board for the metal clips. This seems to indicate that the screws WERE original to #12746.

If you blast them, you'll have to sand the surface to smooth it back out for polishing. Blasting them would be fine in between the spokes, but not so hot on the polished areas. I'd lean toward an acid dip, myself. That should clean them up without totally ruining the smooth areas. They will still need to be re-polished, of course.

I've got 10W-30 in mine, but only because I haven't made it out to the motorcycle shop to get 20 wt. I can confirm that ATF doesn't work all that well, as I tried that before changing to the 10W-30.

I'd love to find a set of those for my car. Even the narrower 6" wide would be OK for me. Got to keep looking.

1.) You can use any of the manifolds, but you need to watch for water passage mis-matches. Your flat-tops and the 3-screw round-tops from a '72 all had water passages in the base of the carbs. The 4-screw round-tops from '70-71 did not have water in the carb bases, just in the manifolds. 2.) There are no real performance reasons to pick one version of round-top over another. Assuming they are in equal condition (look for sloppy throttle shafts, non-sticky pistons and smooth nozzle movement), I'd go with whichever set give the easier installation. If one set has the water passages, you can stay with your existing manifolds, which makes it a simple swap. On the other hand, if you have matched round-tops still on their original manifolds, that might be the cleaner and simpler install. 3.) No idea here, I've only been to DC once, didn't meet any mechanics. 4.) I doubt you'll have much luck finding a school who wants to do it - they study injection these days.

Because wider rims don't fit in the spare well. I've got a 5 1/2" wide slot mag in the spare well right now, and the spare cover sits 3/4" above the floor. Can't use wider than a 5" in the spare well of a 240.