Arne

Might have over-stroked the master cylinder when bleeding. That's a common problem. If the master cylinder is old, pushing the pedal too far during bleeding can run the piston seals over sludge in the bore and damage the seals. If bleeding properly doesn't bring it back, you may need to replace the master cylinder.

Dave, so you are saying that the zero offset wheels have a considerably thicker mounting pad?

FWIW, based on the spun aluminum caps, I'll take a WAG and say that those wheels were probably made in England. Just a guess... I don't drink much bourbon or scotch, and I typically brew my own beer, but if we ever end up on the same side of the continent I'm sure we can come up with something.

Take a look here: http://gorilla-auto.com/hub.covers.page_47 HC189, Chrome, 2.95" dia., with a 1.5" emblem recess, perfect for the MSA 'Z' emblems. Here they are at Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-HC189-2/

OK, let me ponder this a bit.

I assume they slide in from the back, retained by a tapered flange?

Looks nice, if you don't mind losing the cold air feed to the driver's footwell vent.

I had to do a piece by piece troubleshooting routine to Identify my issue. I had played with it several times prior to that without success. Check out this thread, starting with post #82: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?37900

Jay (esprist) is the manufacturer, and supplies MSA with these parts.

The reason there is no definitive answer is that there are several different potential causes for this particular symptom. In my case, the root cause was a condenser attached to the negative terminal of the coil. My Pertronix has not missed a beat since I removed the condenser.

I believe that is normal for the very early ('69 build) cars. You might PM Mike B or 26thZ to confirm.

Performance will depend more on the make and model of tire, not size. 15" will have a comfort advantage over 16". Ease of steering is more dependent on the tire width and carcass stiffness, not the diameter. Not cost advantage, but definitely a selection advantage.

Yes, mine are the MSA emblems too. So same fit as mine. And yes, I believe I will appreciate them. Probably not enough to talk me out of selling my car, but I guess I can't rule that out...

Looks like the same Z emblems I have on my center caps. If so, they are 1.5" diameter. Can be used on a 1.75" recess if you carefully center them. Not perfect, but still good looking.

First, I'd contact MSA (phone, not email) to discuss your concerns. Give them a chance to respond prior to making any judgement. But second, I wonder what the "chrome" process is - especially when the "chrome" is applied. Is the chrome applied over the black? Or is the entire part chromed and then the black is applied over the chrome? If the latter, it may be possible to make the lettering better defined by carefully cleaning more black paint off of the letters. But I would not attempt this without getting MSA's approval! You don't want to eliminate your return possibility by modifying it w/o permission.

MUST....BITE....TONGUE..... :tapemouth I downloaded all the pictures to my laptop so that I could look at them a bit closer. (The downloaded versions aren't distorted in height/width, much easier to look at.) And at the risk of seeming biased and self-promoting, if that is a $12k 240Z, I need to raise the price on mine.

Since mine are the repro Euro Stage 1 springs, my answer would not be suitable for your US spec springs. The Euro springs need to be cut when used on US-spec strut housings, regardless of strut insert selection. So I had to cut quite a bit more than you would. As a guess, I'd probably cut one full coil (the flattened end coil) from the top of each spring. That should drop you 1/2" or so.

I totally understand where you are coming from, Dan. I would only cut down a set of springs if I had a set of stock, un-cut to hold in reserve. Which I did, so I did. Still have the original, un-cut and un-sagged springs in a box.Your mechanic is either wrong, or never paid close enough attention. Or perhaps he's never put KYBs in a car that didn't already have gas-charged inserts in it. In any case, when I replaced my own Mulhollands (RF binding) using the same set of original (not repro) springs, the ride height went up 5/8" (15mm) immediately, and continued to increase over the next 1500 miles to end up at +3/4" (20mm). Not theory, my own before and after measurements. So your concern is valid. But I know you've been on the hunt for suitable non-gas inserts for some time now. With no real success. Maybe it's time to approach this from a different direction. Maybe it'd be easier to find another set of repro springs - either the US stock like you already have, or a set of the Euro like mine. Then you could stash one set, and be free to cut down the other set to use with KYBs. Just a thought....

IMO? No. That's a silly price. For people who want them as is (i.e. narrow, suitable for Triumph TR-4/250), it's a lot of money for a not-that-popular style. For someone like you, who wants them as cores to have widened, that's way too expensive for cores.

I re-read the original post, and think I can add a couple of thoughts that are totally generic, not about any particular car.A.) A/C is not at all common on 240Zs, and working A/C is quite rare. And even when working, the old A/C systems were not all that great. I'd figure that most won't have it at all. If you find one that does (and it works), consider it a plus. But don't eliminate a nice 240Z from consideration due to lack of A/C, because most will lack it. B.) When looking for a ready-to-drive 240Z, overall condition trumps color every time. There aren't enough nice, non-rusted cars left to be picky about the color. I really wanted yellow (919, not Lime) or blue. I got 905 red. A nice 240Z is nice in any color. If you really want a particular color, you often have to restore the car yourself.

I've got KYB in my car. They are fine as long as you can either live with increased ride height over stock, or don't mind cutting down a set of springs. I spared my original springs, but cut down the Courtesy repro set.

Dan, have you checked with Nissan? Part number 54308-E4125, same number fits both front and rear.

The color looks similar to both 905 ('70-71 color) and 110 ('72-on). Don't know from pictures how well it matches the 110 that would have been correct for this year. I can see several things on it that give me pause, but since I have my own car for sale now at a similar price level, I think I'll keep my mouth shut.

People, there is the possibility that the 2-wire lights might be proper dual filament lights, but that the ground has no wire, the lamp being intended to be grounded by its mount to steel body. That was why I asked what I did, and only that. Until we know that bit of info, all speculation is moot. If the bulbs are dual filament, and you need to mount the lights on the air dam, a separate ground wire will be needed to connect the metal base of the lamp to the metal body of the car. If the bulbs are single filament, I second the recommendation to return them and buy something more suitable.

Do they have dual filament bulbs? If not, it can't be done, you'll need different lights.