Arne

The condenser on the alternator is there to eliminate alternator whine in the radio.

Welcome. Lots of help available here. So much so, that it's worth learning to use the search feature to find answers to common topics like this. Best buy on floor pans is at Zedd Findings in Canada.

Also, early 240Zs (built through sometime in Jan. 71) had wheels indents in the spokes instead of holes. From then on, all 240Zs had holes in the spokes. I may have a spare later one (with holes) in a week or two. As Carl mentioned, they are not that difficult to restore, I just cleaned mine up a few weeks ago. Mine - http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=178322 One of the threads on restoring them - http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21485

No, you're right - electronic ignition has nothing to do with it. When I researched this for my own diode, as well as for the plug-in adapter, I found several sources which indicated the diode was necessary only for 240Zs. Some put it the other way, that it wasn't needed for 280Zs. I don't recall any off-hand that actually mentioned 260s, so I'm not certain about them.As to the reason it's needed - all cars with alternators need a diode. In the old days, generators make DC, which is what our cars use. Alternators on the other hand, make AC, which cycles back and forth. The diode is necessary as part of what converts the AC to DC. Sometimes the diode is within the alternator itself, sometimes it is somewhere else in the electrical system. As best I can determine, in the 240Z system, the diode was inside the alternator. But the ZX alternator doesn't have one in it (ZX's must have had one in the wiring somewhere), so one has to be added.

Lots of things I don't know. But I tend to go overboard on things that I'm interested in...

You do have to by-pass the external regulator, but I'm under the impression that you might not need the diode on a 260Z, only 240Zs. Could be wrong though...

I don't know much about flat-tops, but I'm wondering if the float level is too high, or the float is stuck, sending fuel out of the float bowl vent hose? (Do flat-tops even have float bowl vents?)

The lower red section (amber in the rest of the world) should be a turn signal/hazard only. The upper/outer red bulb is brake and tail. I can't recall if the upper/inner section is also brake/tail, or tail only. I've seen wiring diagrams that show them both ways. So if the three bulbs back there are a pair of dual filament bulbs and one single filament bulb, the single filament goes in the lower, and the two duals go in the upper. If you have one dual filament bulb and two singles, the dual goes in the upper/outer, the dimmer of the singles goes in the upper inner, and the bright single goes in the lower. On a related note, the taillight bulbs and wiring are another way that the US Series 1 240Zs differ from the later 240s. Series 1 cars have tail lights in the upper two bulbs, and all three red areas serve as brake/blinkers. The later 240s are almost the same, but the upper inner bulb is tail light only, and does not server as a brake/blinker.

Chances are that the explosion damaged some of the baffles in the muffler. Check the muffler shell to see if it looks swelled, also. My best guess is that other than damage to the muffler, the car is probably safe to drive.

Seems to me that the maintenance schedule called for the diff lube to be changed every so often, regardless of mileage. So the presence of an RTV sealant wouldn't be all that surprising to me, even on a low mileage car. Assuming, of course, that the previous owner followed the maintenance schedule. As for the markings, it wouldn't surprise me to find that the gears were marked somehow during assembly and setup.

On my P79 head the extra holes are not drilled through. I left them empty and all is fine.

Actually Jim, they did charge a buck a head for walk-ins. Which my wife and I paid gladly.

In the US, the '70 and '71 model years came with the 'D' caps, regardless of whether they were Series 1 or Series 2. Of course, no that I've said that, some one will show us the exception, but the above is correct in general.

I'm still trying to figure the valve cover as well. I don't think I want to polish it, but don't know how to restore to something similar to the original finish. I've seen a few that were painted a nice silver that looked good...

I strongly suspect those parts are still available from Nissan - you might check with your dealer as well.

Is the nondescript black box mounted on the side of the distributor? Or to the inner fender?

Obviously, you've never met the right woman. My wife refuses to drive an automatic, her car is a '91 VW Jetta GLI - 2.0L 16 valve, close-ratio 5 speed, Recaros, Sachs suspension and Techtonics Tuning mandrel bent 2.25" exhaust. So I don't want to hear none of that "women drive automatics." 'Tain't always true.

My wife swears that I have a knack for being out of step with the rest of the world, Will. So no offense taken.

My wife and I both prefer manual transmissions, other than for trucks. Just what we prefer, because we both know that automatics are better in some cases. But where we live we don't have to slog through rush-hour traffic, so all of our cars are manuals. My 240Z was an automatic car from the factory, and I converted it to a manual, but unlike many (most) people, I stuck with the 4 speed. In fact, I stayed with the early Type A tranny that it would have come with, had it not been an automatic. I figure in this day when many 240Zs have had 5 speeds installed, having a 4 speed in a driver might be a bit unique. But I can't vote in the poll, none of them apply!

Actually, no. I absolutely would not, will not, and did not pay a stupid price for hubcaps. In fact, I am too embarrassed to admit in public how affordably I bought my set. Suffice it to say that even if I only got $600 for my set, I'd be making a big profit.But it's not all about money. (Or at least, not yet.) It's about having something rare and unique. I'm not saying I'll never sell mine, but there's no hurry to make that decision, either.

Yeah, I know. If I were to do that, what I'd offer would be to start a new auction with a buy-it-now at his price. There are ways to do it and not fall afoul of eBay's rules.

I certainly understand, Dan. Like I said, if I were to sell mine, I have to write off any chance of having them ever again. And even if I never put them on the car, it will be nice to know that I have them.

Squeal is pad vibration. It rarely has much to do with the compound of the friction material, but more frequently caused by poorly made (or worn) backing plates that don't fit snugly in the caliper. Any thing you can do to change the vibration threshold will reduce the squeal.

Yeah, apparently they could. I have cleaned them since the pictures in the other post, they look virtually the same as the ones in the current auction. And I could certainly use the cash to finance more important parts of the project. But if I sell them, I have to accept the fact that I will never have a set like this again. First, because finding them in this condition is becoming more difficult all the time, and second because I couldn't make myself pay what they are apparently worth to other people. I guess I'll have to see what this set closes for, and make a decision then. I could always e-mail the second high bidder and offer him mine...

True story, I gave mine away a couple of months ago.