Arne

To the best of my knowledge, all the 3 speed automatics from any of the Z/ZX cars should bolt up and work. Gary (beandip) might have done a little more research on this, maybe he'll chime in here.

If you want the closest color match, get the paint from Les, as noted above. If "pretty close" is good enough, Chrysler engine blue is awfully close.

You'll notice that there's no heater blower on that either. My '71 FSM shows the defroster, but still no heater.

The shims on my car are thin sheets of stainless steel. In years of doing brake service, I never had really great results using any of the anti-squeal stuff, either in tube or spray on. I use proper shims and brake grease instead.

Oh Lord! Now what do I do? The set I lucked into a while back are almost that good. There is a dime-sized spot of corrosion on the back side of one of mine, otherwise they are the same as this set. I knew I could make a tidy profit on mine, but had no idea that these were worth THAT much. Here is the post with pictures of mine... http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=175684&postcount=17

No problem. But do remember that they need to be a true 7" wide. If you measure from outside lip to outside lip (no tire mounted) you need to subtract 1" from the result to get the true rim width. In other words, if lip to lip measures 7" the wheel is really a 6" wide wheel. A 7" wheel will measure approximately 8" lip to lip.

Where is number 1 lead on the distributor cap? My car have the pump spindle off one tooth when i got it, and number 1 was pointed towards the radiator cap. When I corrected it, number 1 points almost straight forward.

Lots of things will fit, but few will be "original looking." I struggled with this thought as well, and my solution was to get a vintage AM/FM/cassette deck (in my case a Pioneer KP-8000 Supertuner) that looks proper in the dash. Along with that I will likely use a low-power cheapie amp that has aux input for my iPod, assuming I want to go that way. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20462

I've frequently seen map light bezels on eBay, but seldom the light itself. I'm still looking as well.

On a 7" wide wheel (assuming they are a true 7" from bead to bead, not outside lip to lip), you have a lot more options. My favorite size for a 7" would be 225/60-14. But again, the selection of tires in that size is limited.

US spec S30s were prefixed HLS30, RLS30, etc. H or R for the engine, L for left hand drive, S30 for... Well, I'm sure you can figure that one out. There was no U in the S30 line. I think the US S130 prefixes were similar, but have not dug into them to be certain.

Here in the US, H was for L24, then R for L26, and back to H for L28. Don't ask me why they didn't chose a different letter for the L28.

I think you've done the obvious tricks, I'm afraid it's time to drop the transmission. Sorry...

The good news is that Libres fit these cars well, and clearance problems with them are rare. The bad news is that Libres are narrow, and not well suited for wide tires. The tire makers specs state that you can (officially) go as wide as a 215/60-14 on a 5.5" wide wheel. So (officially) either a 205/60 or 215/60 should fit.BUT... a previous owner put 205/60-14 on my car's 5.5" wheels, and although I'm not driving my car much right now (awaiting a engine swap) I can tell you that just from looking at them they are too wide for the wheels. The sidewalls are pinched in at the rims, which leads to poor tire wear, and sloppy handling. A 215/60 would be worse. I would normally recommend staying with a 195 or smaller width tire on 5.5" wheels, myself. But I also feel that 195/60-14 are much too small for a Z. (Others may disagree, but they are MUCH shorter than stock.) If I had a set of Libres myself (I wish!), I'd probably run 195/70-14 on them.

Sound like you have accurately identified the issue. You existing booster sounds like it is bad, and the replacement booster sounds like it is wrong (probably for a different year or maybe model).

Depending on the amount of wear in the tumblers, you should be able to get them re-keyed by a competent locksmith. If they are too badly worn for that, MSA lists a complete set keyed the same in their catalog - but hold on to your wallet, as I recall the kit is almost $600!

Toni, since I have seen your car (and it's wheels) in person, and also because I have almost 25 years of tire selling experience behind me (prior career), I can probably help. What is it that you want in new tires? Stock height? How wide?

I'm not sure when the lighted defogger switch entered the picture. My car (10/70) was still un-lit. The dash in your car must be a bit later than you think. Neither my 10/70 car, nor a 4/71 car I looked at yesterday have the hazard indent. If your car is 3/70, the harness you would need would have been in all cars from 1/70-9/70. So while the one in your car might not be original (assuming the 6/70 date interpretation is correct, which seems likely) it should be identical to the original.

For street driving, I would think the compression will help more than the larger valves. The valves will help mostly at high RPM, while the compression helps everywhere.

Eric, the factory part number of the dash harness assembly for 1/70 through 9/70 is 24013-E4601, and that assembly consists of two sub-harnesses labeled 24013-E4650 and E4651. The early '71 cars with manual transmission had number 24013-E4602, which consisted of two sub-harnesses with the same two part numbers as the earlier assembly. The differences between the 1/70-9/70 and the 10/70-12/70 are extremely minor. Since the two main sub-harnesses had the same numbers on the labels, there is almost no way to tell for certain if an assembly you find somewhere is really from a 1970 or an early '71. But since only the early '71s used those numbers (later '71s were different), and only for a short 3 month period, the odds are that any you find will probably be for the 1/70-9/70 cars. When I replaced mine, I strongly suspect that the one I found was actually from a '70, not an early '71. But it fit and worked in my early '71 just fine anyway.

It's possible the clutch disc has rusted itself to the flywheel.

I haven't driven my Z long enough to notice this, but the old MG would do this, the lever would get hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch. No exhaust leak on that car, either.

Could be either the shoes rusted to the drums, or the parking brake cable rusted inside the sheath. What you will need to do depends on which is the problem. Have some one pull and release the lever while you watch the cables at the rear of the wheels. If the cables move, the shoes are probably rusted to the drums. If the cables don't move, the cable is bad and will probably need to be replaced. But you could disconnect the cables at the wheels as a temporary measure to get rolling again. Unless -- maybe it has both problems!

I don't necessarily believe that the flat-tops are inherently bad. The problem is that no one has non-emissions parts (especially needles and springs) for them. If you had the ability to tune and set them up properly they'd probably work about as well as round tops. But still, the issue here is that nobody seems to ever bother rebuilding them, and so no one has the direct experience to help with your question. I'm certain that there is an answer, but finding someone who knows it will be difficult.