Arne

Hold up, guys! Which type of 260Z does he have? An early one (with bumpers similar to a 240Z)? Or a later 260Z (which had 280Z bumpers)?

Due to an obscure US DOT regulation, all manual transmission cars had to have the shift pattern visible from the driver's seat. The simplest answer to that was to put it on the shift knob, but some BMWs and VWs put labels on the dash instead. Anyway, Datsun always met this requirement by putting the pattern on the shift knob. So yours is definitely an aftermarket knob.

Collapsed oil control rings.

If there are no identifying marks stamped on it, there is probably no way to tell. In the 35+ years since the Z was introduced, there have to have been dozens of different headers built, many by small companies that no longer exist. Good luck!

Scan through the registry at zhome.com and look for the closest to your VIN. That should get you in the ball park.

Most helmets of that quality come with painting instructions (limitations) in the box. I know my Arai's always have, as did the Simpson.

What year car are we dealing with? Does it have EGR?

In the US, they went to the one-key-fits-all program starting with 1/71 production. Other parts of the world were different.

Front valance, left and right side. And the piece in between is the front valance, center. Looks like the ones pictured are very nice, and in 919 yellow for the 70 and '71 240Z.

I did mine today. My rim wasn't too bad so I decided I'd leave it as is - retain some of the patina, so to speak. But the spokes were bad. Chips, scrapes and corrosion, plus at least two coats of paint. So I decided I had to strip all the way to bare metal. I'm pleased with the result, the steering wheel and the new OE walnut shift knob are the best looking parts of my car!

Yup. On a 260Z the same key should open everything.

For most Zs, yes. The exception is the '70 and early '71 240Zs. They came with separate keys - one for the ignition and one for everything else.

1.) To the best of my knowledge, all 240Z air cleaners were orange. 2.) The only replacement door panels for the early cars that have been available lately were for RHD, and therefore have the holes for the pull handle. So the obvious answer is to install the handle to cover up the holes. Not original, but understandable.

Regarding removing the tint - I am of the opinion that removing tint off the rear window is why so many old Zs have dead rear window defoggers. Peel the tint - the defogger grid comes off with it.

No, but if you ever figure out what that connector goes to, please let me know. I'e identified every other wire in my dash area except that pair.

Well, I'd have to say that we have identified the problem. From here, you'll need to compare all three parts - the master cylinder, pushrod and power booster - to the old ones you removed. One of them is wrong.

If it's the hoses, you simply replace them with new and bleed the brakes. But since you say that it affects both front and rear brakes, hoses don't seem too likely. I now think it is a mis-adjustment or mis-match between the power booster and the master cylinder. Might be something as simple as a pushrod length adjustment. You should adjust the pushrods as indicated in the factory manual for your year Z. Also make certain that the master cylinder and the power booster are both made for your year car.

Which brakes get hot? Front or rear? If it's the fronts, my first thought would be one or both front brake hoses breaking down internally. That allows fluid to go into the calipers, but restricts it from returning. The more you use them, the 'stucker' they get. Test that by pumping the brakes several times with the engine running, then release the brakes and crack open the bleeder valve. If it spurts, that's the problem. Could be a mis-adjusted power booster pushrod, too. That might be even more likely, actually.

Part E are taillights from '74-78 260 and 280Z. I agree that parts D look like parking lights from late '74-78 260 and 280Z. Probably from the same car.

Far more important that the car. Congrats! Here's my wish for health and happiness for you all!

240Z wiring colors are very different from 280Z colors.

Totally from memory here, but I seem to recall that red/blue is the dash lighting.

You're right, his stuff needs to be looked at closely when dealing with cars with eccentric wiring like ours. The Datsun practice of switching the ground for the headlights at the switch rather than the power is... ahh... shall we say, unusual? But I have made initial tests on the marker-blink set up and it looks like it will work on our Zs. Plus I found references to other folks doing this on 510s and Roadsters as well. Below is a link to a PDF of the Dime Quarterly which outlines this on page 7. http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/dq/dq_1_1.pdf

Close, but not quite spot on. The DOT does want them to run as markers during normal use, but will allow them to flash with the turn signals as well, as long as the normal operation is good too. Take a look at this link for details - I will probably try this on my 240Z when I get it closer to finished:http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html