Arne

How bright are the brake lights or turn signals? Test them for brightness both with the tail lights on and off. If the brake/turn/hazards in the rear are all OK, then I'd suspect something in the wiring between the combo switch and the tail lights, or perhaps the combo switch itself. Also look at the rear sidemarker lights - how bright are they? If they are normal brightness, it's probably a bad ground to the tail lights, since the sidemarkers are grounded separately. If they are dim too, then the problem is closer to the front of the car.

Bad ground, or too much resistance through the wire to the rear of the car. Are the parking lights up front dim too? Does the tail light fuse get hot?

See if I ever make an innocent comment ever again!

On the other hand, perhaps he has reason to be angry. I scanned through his feedback, he has a total of three negatives and all three users who gave it have 'z' or ''datsun' in their user name. Not to say that the negatives might not have been deserved, but still it might tend to make one a bit testy about Datsun people...

The Yamaha motors out of a Taurus SHO are common swaps. Early ones are V6s, the later ones are V8s. Mazda and Ford have close ties as well. Should be cheap in wrecking yards these days, too. Good luck!

I suspect that in some parts of the country, people might consider repairing that. But here on the West coast there are enough fairly solid cars available that I wouldn't consider it unless it were special in some way. (Low VIN, or family sentimental value.) If you still want a Z, I'd not part that one until you have your replacement in hand, because you will probably have parts you will want to keep.

As noted above, been there done that. I am very happy with the decision I made to replace the dash harness section.

The problem is that the colors, connectors and number of wires varies from year to year, and even from month to month in early cars. (Trust me, I know this part from personal experience.) This type of issue is exactly why I replaced my dash wiring harness. Lacking that, your best bet at this pint would be to get the multi-meter out and start making notes as you trace the wires. Because pictures will only help if we can determine which version of dash harness you have and find someone with the same exact version. Pictures of the wrong version might only make things worse.

Agreed. I have 205/60-14 with a 3.54 rear end, too short geared for a 4 speed. If you don't like the choices in 215/60 or 225/60 (and many don't as the selection isn't very great), better to go with 15 or 16" wheels instead.

1.) You need a service manual of some sort if you're going to attempt to do this kind of work. That should absolutely be your next purchase. Period. 2.) Pressure plate to flywheel bolts should be torqued to 12-15 ft. lbs. 3.) For those of us in the US, left is driver, right is passenger. Always.

My wife and I were there on both days, Bruce. And this was my first Datsun gathering, although I was quite active in the Brit-car scene for a number of years. So that's how I look at this - comparing to what I experienced with shows and such with my MG. First, I'll have to agree with Loren - compared to when I was attending Brit-car functions in the early 90s, the swap meet was lame. I'm also wondering about the costs to "show" the car. I understand that trophies and such are costly, but many of the nicest cars were not in the judged area, but just parked in the $5.00 group parking. For those of us with normal (i.e. not really rare) Datsuns, many of which are driven regularly, there's no way they want to pay $30 to allow them to compete against trailer queens. Now I will grant - the majority of this year's crop were cars that were driven, not towed. But to pay $30 up front not knowing if you'll have to go up against some $30k restoration with a clean daily driver - well, I think that's why there were so many cars in the $5.00 lot. The again, you can't please everyone...

Oh dear Lord, it's back again... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/70-DATSUN-240Z-FLAMES-CORVET-LIGHTS-FIBERGLASS-BOX-KAMI_W0QQitemZ4649253643QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Yup, any hydraulic part that sits for years is likely to fail, and wheel cylinder failures are common. They are at the lowest point of the system, so moisture in the fluid migrates there and corrodes it from the inside out. #2 is where you need to disconnect it. You should not use a normal wrench on these line fittings, as there is a very great risk of rounding off the fitting (as you have now seen). You should have used a flare nut wrench instead. But it may now be too late even for that, and you may need to use a vice-grips or something similar to get it loose. Unfortunately, to get it back tight again, you may now have to replace the metal line itself - which runs from #1 to #2.

There are several companies that make grease designed especially for this purpose. I personally use "Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease" which is a dark black grease that used to be included by Raybestos in their remanufactured calipers.

You do know that the pilot bearing is an interference fit in the end of the crank, right? In other words, it doesn't just slip in, it needs to be pressed or driven in.