Arne

Loren, is yours a true euro-tube, or did you have it welded and dressed?

If they used shank type (and back in the day, most did), you can NOT use acorn. But shank type lug nut should not be all that hard to find, unless they are a special length or diameter of shank. Can you post a picture of the wheel? And any data on the dimensions of the shank will help.

Vacuum advance is not required. If the rest of the advance curve is suitable you can eliminate the vacuum advance.

See this thread, it has an attached scan of Datsun's magazine ad on the Zzzap. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19999

My first thought is that perhaps there is a vacuum leak somewhere. If extra air is leaking in that could cause a higher idle. If you try to drop the idle by closing the throttles, suddenly there's no fuel flowing and it dies. So that would be my first step, to look for possible vacuum leaks.

Black Dragon sells repro body parts. So for their repro hood, there probably is no difference. But if the dealer says there was a difference in the factory parts, I'm sure that there was. I'd bet it isn't major, though. Probably something like how the support rod works, or something like that.

A different view (dirty and not polished): http://home.comcast.net/~e21graymarket/240z/picframes/newcarbs.html

Try beandip, nwcubsman, or escanlon for starters.

Absolutely. They aren't attractive, but they weren't designed to be attractive. They were designed to prevent damage to the car. In my case though, the bigger (and undeniably better protecting) bumpers aren't part of the Z that I see in my dreams. You see, I still see Z's in the context of the brand new 240Z's on the local Datsun dealer's lot that I drooled over as a 16 year-old with a brand new driver's license. This means that my 240Z will be far more vulnerable to damage. It is a risk I have to accept.

Dave, I recall my owner's manual and FSM both say 15.8 gallons. I've got a copy of the data sheet from the original Road & Track road test here at work, it says 15.9. So just under 16 gallons should be right.

Thanks for the nice comments, guys. If anyone sees anything I missed or got wrong, let me know and I'll edit it.

I recently completed swapping a four speed manual transmission into my originally automatic-equipped 240Z. I got much of the info to plan this conversion from this site, but found that there was no one thread or article that contained all the information that I needed. So to give back some to the group that has helped me, I decided to try to document the whole process in one place. Disclaimer: While the basic process, theory and parts requirements should be valid for any S30, the exact details of my swap will apply only to my exact situation - installing an early four speed (Type A - F4W71A) into a left hand drive early '71 240Z (10/70 series 1). That said, much of this info should be a good guide for swapping any manual transmission from a 240/260/280Z or ZX (except the Borg Warner T5 from some ZX Turbos) into any automatic-equipped S30. The car - 1971 240Z, HLS30-12746, 10/70 build date. Factory equipped with an automatic transmission. The parts - Basic mechanical parts for the job: Manual transmission (your choice of 4 or 5 speeds)Rear engine plate from a manual transmission enginePilot bearing (auto-equipped cars didn't have them)Flywheel (find one with bolts and a good ring gear)Pressure plateClutch diskManual transmission starter and solenoidRelease bearingBearing collarClutch forkClutch fork bootRear transmission mount (not absolutely required, the one from the automatic will work)Shift leverInner shift bootSlave cylinderClutch hoseMetal hydraulic lineMaster cylinderPedal box assembly (or brake and clutch pedals)Various nuts and bolts To finish the interior trim, you will also likely need a shift knob, outer shift boot, and possibly a manual transmission console. Some notes on picking out your parts - a bit of attention to what you get can pay off big in saving headaches. For example, when you pick out your transmission try to get one that still has its original clutch fork and bearing collar. Make certain that your clutch pressure plate is for the same year/model as the bearing collar. Try to get a pedal box assembly from a similar year car as you are swapping into. While a 280Z pedal box will probably go into a 240Z (and vice-versa), there are differences between them. Using as many of the proper vintage parts as possible can make it go easier. In my case, my car came with a proper vintage Type A four speed when I bought it. The clutch fork and bearing collar were still installed. But that was all I got, so the rest I had to hunt down separately. The clutch hydraulic parts (except the metal fluid line) should all be new, not used, as should the release and pilot bearings. The pressure plate and clutch disk should be either new or almost new. Don't waste your time using a half worn clutch. Preparation - There are a couple of things that can be done in advance to prepare for the actual swap. One is to swap the pedals. The other is to pre-route the hydraulic line. In my case, the original pedal box had been buggered up by a previous owner who had routed the injection harness (for a poorly installed ZX injection system) through the clutch master cylinder hole in the firewall. So I had to replace the entire pedal box, but in many cases I expect that people can get by with replacing the pedals only. But it might still be best to acquire an entire pedal box so that you get the bushings, return springs, pedal stops, etc. While replacing the pedals only should be fairly simple, replacing the entire pedal box would definitely be much easier if the dash was out of the car. Which was not the way I did it. Only one surprise here, the pedal box I got was for a slightly later model 240Z ('73, I think) and the hole in the brake pedal for the clevis pin (to connect to the pushrod) was smaller than the one that came out. This was pretty simple in my case, I just had to drill out the new pedal to the larger size. It would have been worse had it been the other way. So again, try to get pedal parts that are the same year as your car. Adjust the clutch pedal height as specified in the FSM. (In the case of my '71, the face of the pedal should be 8" from the floor.) Once the pedals have been changed, you can bolt up your new clutch master cylinder, and then route the metal fluid line across the firewall. The reality here is that there is no good way to do this part while the engine is in the car. In my case, that's not too big a problem, since I plan to do an engine swap in a few months anyway. So my line is not routed as it should be. If you're not planning to pull the engine anytime soon, plan on an whole afternoon of crawling around back behind the engine to get it done right. I don't know about the later cars, but on the Series 1 cars the metal tab that the metal line and the clutch hose clip to doesn't exist. Manual transmission cars have this tab welded to the right side frame rail. The tab itself is normally spot-welded to the frame rail and can be fairly easily removed from a wrecked manual transmission car with a hammer and chisel. But attaching it to your car is a different issue. This is another item that would be difficult to do with the engine in the car. So again I passed on that for now. When the engine is out, I will pop-rivet it to the frame rail, and then I'll have it properly welded when I have the car de-rusted and painted someday. The swap - I did my swap with the engine in place. It could have been done by pulling the engine/transmission as a unit from the top, but since I did it the other way, all the following details will assume you are doing it the same as I did. So start by getting the car up off the ground. I pulled the front wheels up on ramps, and jacked the rear up and placed it on sturdy jackstands. Disconnect the battery and remove the starter. Since the starters are different between automatic and manual transmissions, I used the auto starter to start my "unused parts" pile. Then drain the transmission fluid, and remove the transmission fluid cooler lines. After the fluid is mostly drained, you should remove the lower flex plate cover to gain access to the bolts which attach the flex plate to the torque converter. There are four of these bolts, and you'll have to turn the engine using the crank pulley bolt to get to them all. I did not drop the exhaust on my car, but depending on how yours is routed, you may have to do so. Disconnect the shift linkage and remove the driveshaft. While it is not entirely necessary, it can be handier to disconnect and remove the dipstick tube and metal vacuum pipe to the intake manifold. Be sure to plug the vacuum fitting on the manifold, as you won't need it anymore. Also disconnect the six wires to the transmission - one pair (kickdown switch) on the left side, and two pair (reverse light and neutral safety switches) on the right side. Disconnect the speedometer cable also. Now place a jack or something under the oil pan to help support the engine, and a transmission jack under the transmission itself. (There are other ways to do this if you don't have access to a true transmission jack, but they aren't as fun. Try to rent or borrow a real transmission jack.) Unbolt the rear crossmember from the car and the rear mount and remove it, catching the small metal plate that may have been installed between the crossmember and the rubber mount. Let the rear of the transmission drop down a bit and remove the four bolts from the bellhousing to the rear of the engine. Slowly pull the transmission towards the rear of the car. As the transmission separates from the engine, the torque converter will do one of two things - it will either stay on the input shaft and come out with transmission, or it may stay stuck to flex plate like mine did. Watch the torque converter as you go and be prepared for fluid spills or for the converter to fall. Note - the converter is full of fluid and is heavy! OK, it's out. Now it's time to prepare for the new transmission. Go inside the car to unbolt and remove the shift linkage plate from the tunnel. Then go back under the car. Unbolt the flex plate from the end of the crankshaft. You will need to figure way to hold the crankshaft from turning to do this, I wedged a prybar into the ring gear and against an engine bolt. Remove the flex plate along with the spacer plates on both sides of it, and also the rear engine plate. Install the pilot bushing into the end of the crankshaft. Drive it in carefully, trying not to smash the end of it. Test it now using the clutch line-up tool (or spare transmission input shaft), so that you can use a file or something to clean up any damage from driving it into place before the flywheel is installed. (Much easier to get to now.) Put the manual transmission rear engine plate in place (on the engine dowel pins), and then install the flywheel (which I hope you had resurfaced already). Note that (at least for my Series 1 car) the flywheel bolts are longer than the flex plate bolts, so try to get the matching bolts with your flywheel. The flex plate bolts are not long enough. When torquing the flywheel bolts down, you will again have to find some way to keep the crankshaft from turning. There are special tools available for this, or you can get creative. (I was creative.) Using your line-up tool, install the clutch plate and pressure plate to the flywheel. At this time (while the engine is out) is the time to prepare the wiring as well. The kickdown switch wires (on the left side of the tunnel) can be ignored. I taped them up out of the way. On the other side of the tunnel, identify the two wires for the neutral safety switch, and splice them together or make a jumper wire to connect them to each other. (On my car, these two wires were both black, and both had female bullet connectors.) The remaining two wires are for the reverse lamp switch. (On my car, these were both red with black traces and both had male bullet connectors.) Verify that the connectors for the reverse lamp switch on your transmission are compatible with those of your car's wiring harness. Mine were not, all four connectors were male bullets. Now is the time to deal with this, not when the transmission is in place. Now time to ready the transmission itself. This is a great time to replace the rear seal, as well as the obvious time to refresh any of the clutch actuator parts that may be needed. Again, make certain that the clutch fork matches the transmission, and replace the fork dust boot unless it is really good already. The release bearing and collar should be properly fitted to the fork, and the slave cylinder should be mounted to the bellhousing. Bolt the rear transmission mount to the tailshaft housing, but do not bolt the crossmember to the mount. Lastly, put the transmission in gear, don't have it in neutral. Time to put the transmission into the car. Again, it is best to use a transmission jack to do this. Get it lined up and try to slide it up to the back of the engine. Never let the transmission hang from the input shaft, always support it from the bottom. If the transmission won't slide up easily, slide the driveshaft part way into the tailshaft and use it to spin the transmission to try to get the splines on the input shaft to match the splines in the clutch disc. (This is why you want it in gear, not in neutral.) Don't try to force it, if you can't get it to mate after several attempts, drop the transmission back down to re-check the set up with the clutch line up tool. Eventually the transmission should slide up to the engine, rotate it back and forth a bit until the dowel pins line up. Put one or two of the bellhousing to engine bolts in lightly, and then bolt the rear crossmember into place. (Remember to use the metal plate between the crossmember and mount if there was one there originally.) Put the remaining engine bolts in, and tighten all four to spec. Note here that I had to get new engine bolts for mine, as the bellhousing flange on the Type A four speed is much thicker than the automatic, and requires a longer bolt. In my case, the bolts I used were 10 mm x 1.5 x 60 to 65 mm thread length. Since the holes in the block are blind (don't go all the way through, but have a bottom), the bolts can't be too long or they'll bottom out in the holes. Remove the transmission jack and the support from under the engine. Re-install the driveshaft, connect the reverse switch wiring and the speedometer cable. Fill the transmission with oil! Install the shift lever and inner shift boot. (Since I was installing a Type A transmission into my Series 1 car, I did not have to enlarge the hole in the tunnel. If you are installing a Type B or a five speed in a Series 1, the tunnel modification should have been done earlier when the transmission was out.) Install the small bolts that hold the lower part of the rear engine plate to the lower bellhousing. If your slave cylinder has the adjustable pushrod, adjust it now. Connect the (probably new) clutch hose to the slave cylinder. Note here that I ran into a snag. The hose to slave cylinder connection is not a flare fitting, but requires a copper crush sealing washer. In my case, neither the hose nor the cylinder came with the washer, and I had to go hunt one down before I could finish the job. Learn from my experience, make sure you have one before you need it. When the slave connection is tight, connect the other end of the hose to the metal fluid line. Fill the master cylinder with clean fluid and open the bleeder on the slave. Let the fluid 'gravity bleed' for a short time, then close the bleeder. Keep watching the fluid level in the master cylinder during all this to make sure you don't introduce more air. Top off the master cylinder and bleed the slave manually once or twice to ensure that you have all the air out. Almost done! Install the starter and re-connect the battery. Get the car back on the ground, put it in neutral and start it. With the clutch pedal depressed and the engine running, carefully try to shift through all the gears, making sure there are no grinding noises, and that the shift lever moves into each gear normally. If that tests out OK, put it in reverse and move the car just a couple of feet, noting how the clutch feels. You don't want it to be grabby, or feel like it is slipping. Now into first, and come back forward a few feet. Do that back and forth a couple times. If that all goes well, buckle up and go test it! I think that's it. I hope I didn't forget anything important, and I also hope this might help people planning for a similar swap.

Any pictures?

Not quite, he's in Sutherlin, OR. About 170 miles South of Portland on I-5.Don't expect to see much on his web site, you'll want to call or e-mail with your requests. http://www.webspawner.com/users/dannysdatsuns/

Shouldn't be a problem, other than scuffing the appearance of the boots.

For a 240Z (not 280Z) this guy on eBay always has them available Buy-It-Now for $140 delivered. KYB on eBay listing His eBay store

You get spark when you release the key? Sounds like it might be something wrong in the wiring to the coil. The stock 240Z wiring sends power to the coil through different circuits in the 'Start' (straight to the coil) and 'Run' (through the ballast resistor) positions. You may be getting power to the coil in 'Run' but not in 'Start'. So I'd start by verifying all the wiring between the ignition switch and coil.

There may be somewhere in Washington state that is referred to by that name as well, but the Inland Empire in Ca is the Ontario/Chino/Claremont area. About 30 miles or so East of LA proper.

Too true. But if Loren had searched for 'lower engine cover color' (and he may have), that thread would not have appeared. (I know, I tested it.) Which illustrates the limitations of the search feature - it's only as good as your search parameters.

Ooh! Loren, do you have a spare?

I consider those Enkei 92s to be kind of an 'in-between school' wheel. Not modern like the Konigs you linked to, but not truly old school either. (At least not to me.) They were very popular in the mid-80s, which makes them a bit too new for the vintage look I'm shooting for. I do like the silver face version like yours. That was not a commonly seen color when I was selling them new - 95% were either black or the more normal (for 92s) rather vivid gold.But they're darn nice wheels, if they're in good shape and someone likes the style. As Ron said, about $100 each if they're 14", a bit more if they are 15".

I suspect he's talking about the underbody splash pan that most of our cars are missing. If so, I believe they were black, probably a satin finish.

Greetings, Randy, and welcome! Please keep us posted on your project. I love the pictures, your car is very similar to my goal for mine. Unfortunately, I have a lot farther to go than you do.

The first of Mat's pictures is the 70-71 style. I found that if the lever mechanism on the console is good, you can replace the cable itself (which is a single looped cable) with the longer one from a later assembly. Shorten them up a bit and they work fine.

SO if the exterior is beadblasted or dipped to remove the yellowed factory clear, can you simply powdercoat it in clear to approximate the factory finish?