Arne

Mike, does the powdercoat cover the inside as well? Any problems with that?

The bolt pattern is 4-4.5" also known as 4-114.3. Your 17" wheels are not the proper offset, they won't fit on the Z, they will hit the strut. You will need pretty hefty spacers to make them fit, at least 25mm thick, probably more like 40mm, as the Z likes close to zero offset. You didn't complete your profile, where do you live?

I've got that book, and it's probably OK if you've never done this type of thing before. But I've done bare shell restoration on other cars in the past, and with that experience as background, I was mildly disappointed in Humble's book. Not nearly as much detail as I had hoped, and the pictures aren't all that great.

It's certainly possible, Alan. Especially for what we would have called the 'export' market. Because the sad truth is that back then very few US-made wheels were of a quality sufficient to meet the standards and testing that was required in pretty much the rest of the civilized world. So if an American wheel company wanted to sell one of their better wheels that might meet standards overseas, they may have needed additional wheels to fill out the line. After all, if Appliance wanted to sell their dish mag (arguably their best product in the day) in the UK, a UK distrbutor may want a more complete line-up before they'd be willing to devote much floor space to them. So an easy way to get a more complete line into that market would be to private label wheels (many Japanese) that already met the standards.But for us here in the states, we never saw those private-label imports. All we would get would be the cheap US made stuff. This started changing in the early '80s, partly due to tighter regulation of the aftermarket wheel industry, but primarily due to a So. Cal distributor called Golden Wheel, who started importing Enkei wheels and marketing them as a higher quality premium wheel. (And they were much higher quality than your typical US-made custom wheel.) It didn't take long for all the big US wheel companies to scramble to offer a similar product, in most cases Japanese imports that were re-labeled here in the states.

A question from the ignorant - What is MM?

Considering the visible cancer I see on 913, I'd start by stripping it to the bare shell and getting the shell de-rusted, repaired and painted first. Then you can replace, rebuild or refurbish all the parts as necessary during the slow re-assembly process. Since you have several series 1 cars you have both models to compare to and cars to pull rare parts from as you go.

No, actually I sold custom wheels for a living during part of the '70s, and imported wheels of any kind were VERY uncommon, and the few imports that were on the market here were almost exclusively expensive and European. As a purchasing agent, I visited most of the bigger name companies' production facilities - all here in the states.You see, the obvious quality and production efficiencies of the Japanese not withstanding, the Japanese wheel makers couldn't compete in the commodity wheel market, because they were more regulated than the US aftermarket was in those days. The US-based companies were not required (at that time) to do much if any testing. So it was very easy to crank out cheap aluminum wheels at prices the Japanese makers could not compete with. Therefore 99% or more of the custom wheels fitted by either the dealers or by new owners were of US manufacture.

No. If Nissan even kept track (which I don't think they did), those numbers aren't available.

1.) Don't know. 2.) Not sure on your application. 3.) Supposed to go to the PCV valve. I don't know if your Weber manifolds have a PCV fitting. 3. #2) Vent on the top of the valve cover normally goes to the air box. You can either vent it into one of your air cleaners, or get a small K&N breather filter for it. 4.) I should think you'll want to use the return line if you can. 5.) You may need to do some wiring of some sort to activate the pump, but again I'm not sure exactly what on your year car. Last note - if you are planning to use the fuel pump from the injection, you will need to get a good fuel pressure regulator to reduce the pressure down to the amount that the Webers call for.

See the attached scan from the Road & Track comparison test of the 240Z, MGB GT, Opel GT and Triumph GT6. (About May, 1970, I think. Corrected issue to July '71.)

Got it a couple weeks ago for $14.95 + shipping from Black Dragon (the vendor formerly known as Victoria British).

Agreed. But as I said, for most of us - whose pure street cars will never see any track time - I believe the differences between the various heads are minimal.

My car still has a couple of these clear plastic grommets, although they are not in very good shape.

And to clarify, here in the US at least, there was no such thing as a "factory" mag wheel option for a 240Z. There were lots of dealer installed mags, but none were offered or approved by the factory, and every dealer had different choices, depending on what they could get the best buy on.

Just happened to have my new one sitting here, waiting for me to swap from auto to 4 speed in a couple days. Here are some pics.

I may get flamed for saying this, but it seems to me that for most of us - whose cars will not be involved in high level competitive events - all this fuss about which head is better is purely an academic exercise. The difference in performance on a mildly built engine for primarily street use between say, an E31 and a large chamber E88 for example is probably not significant. So for most of us, go with what ever head you've got, or whichever one is in the best condition. Now, if you are competing at a high level, there is more reason to be concerned. But even then, a 10 HP improvement due to a better head might be compensated for by more skillful driving or better brakes.

Better than the rear bumper on mine... Oh, wait. I don't have a rear bumper yet.Seriously, it looks like a great starting point. Good luck!

Yes, that's where it runs.

Actually, I do have an article started on my laptop, about the entire details of doing the automatic to 4 speed swap on a Series 1 240Z, since I couldn't find all the info I needed in one spot. I expect to complete the swap next week, and then I'll finish the article (assuming I get back to it) shortly after that.As for a wheel article, I guess I could do something like that too. I haven't sold custom wheels for a number of years now, since a mid-life career change. But I do still have a lot of knowledge of obsolete custom wheels from about '75 through '95. If it was made in those years, I've probably seen it, touched it, sold it, or some combination of the three. Pretty hard to put all that in an article, I wouldn't know where to start. So my knowledge is probably much better used in simply identifying wheels as questions come up.

Yeah, that's a good thought. As long as you don't grind into the water jacket, because it looks from the pictures as if Marty is planning to connect the water to the manifolds.

First, I believe that Superior no longer makes aftermarket wheels, so you won't be able to buy this style new, later. But those wheels are chrome-plated steel, and the weigh a ton! They are not in any way to be considered a performance wheel, 15" size not withstanding.

Marty, just as a point of information - do you know what brand header Jet Hot uses? I suspect that they don't make their own, but probably buy then unpainted from someone else and then the coat them. But back on topic. The headers (whatever brand they may be) were obviously designed and test-fit on an injected engine. Which probably makes sense considering that the round port heads were all injected. As for options - an obvious choice would be to intentionally dent the offending tubes to gain clearance. It's done all the time on many different applications. I would find that distasteful, myself, and would consider it to be my option of last resort. An equally obvious choice would be different brand headers. Again, that doesn't sound like a good choice to me. But another thought would be to try different intake manifolds. It looks like those are the early '70-71 manifolds to me. It is possible that the '72 manifolds, or maybe the '73-74 manifolds might have slightly different bottom contours, or maybe they have longer runners which might move the water chamber far enough away to clear the header.

Where abouts up here are you, Randy? You didn't fill in the Location field in your profile.

Yeah, that's one of the issues that I have - I know for a fact that none of the 4 taillights I have are good enough for Dave to reuse for the next set. That plus the fact that I still have LOTS of things to spend money on that are much more critical than LED lights.

I've tried Platinums in the past in other cars and been singularly unimpressed. They cost a lot more than normal plugs, with no noticeable benefit. In fact, in the old '81 323i, they were noticably inferior in performance to the stock Bosch Supers. I won't waste my cash on them again.