Arne

As I prepare to swap a four speed in place of my car's automatic, I find that I almost blew it. The pressure plate that I was planning to use doesn't match the throw-out bearing collar I have. Not a big issue since I discovered it now, as I have the proper pressure plate as well. But the new disk I have is the 75-83 225mm disk, not the earlier 70-74 225mm disk. Anyone know if there is really any functional difference? I have an early one to compare with, and there certainly doesn't appear to be any dimensional or design difference. Yet MSA's catalog does list a different disk for those years. So short version - Can I use a 75-83 clutch disk with a 70-74 pressure plate?

Does it die suddenly? Or just progressively slow down until it dies?

But it's much harder to find a decent 510 today than it is to find a nice 2002.

My favorite old BMW was the '81 323i that I owned for 5 years. For those of you here in the US, the 323i was not normally sold here. Imagine a 320i with small 240Z-like chrome bumpers, 4 wheel disc brakes and a 2.3 liter six cylinder. It was a great all around fun small sedan.

As I mentioned in the other thread, you have stumbled on to the complexity of the ignition switch. I believe that the black/white wire to the coil is the one that is powered when the key is turned to start. If so, the fact that it activates the starter doesn't surprise me at all, as the two circuits are probably interconnected. From memory, I think the wire you want is green/white. That one would have normally gone to the ballast resistor, which then goes to the coil. That's the wire that should supply the coil for normal running.

Yes and no. There are plenty of 14" performance tires. But very few in the relatively large 14" sizes that the S30s require.

There is a lot more to wiring this up than first appears to the eye, as the ignition switch itself is fairly complex. For example, on a 240Z the switch has two wires to energize the coil - one in the run position, and one in the start position. Some circuits get power in the accessory position, others in the run position. To do it right will take some studying of the diagram so that you understand what functions the original switch is providing. Frankly, I understand electrical quite well, but I'd far rather replace the worn lock tumbler than re-wire the ignition.

(Note: I originally posted this to the other thread, but since this one is where the action seems to be, I'll post it here too.) Welcome! Your car and mine came off the line relatively closely. Mine is 12746, also 10/70 build. Same color as well. Interestingly, my car had a non-turbo 280ZX engine in ti when I got it, complete with the injection and sketchy wiring. The injection on mine has been replaced by carbs, and the wiring replaced. Lots left to do.

I went through this with my last specialty car - a '67 MGB. I did a complete, bare tub, ground up restoration on it. I discussed insurance options with many people, and came to the conclusions that true "Agreed Value" or specialty insurance such as Hagerty's did not suit my needs. I too planned to drive the MG to work, etc. I ended up with a normal policy (through State Farm) with the addition that they had a notarized copy of a professional appraisal of the finished car on file, both at my local agent's office and in the Regional office. I paid about as much for the MG as I did for our 5 year old family car. This must have worked, as about a year and a half later, the MG had an unfortunate run-in with some wildlife. The car was over 25 years old at the time. You can guess what the "average market value" was on a 25 year old MG at the time. The repairs were over $4000 - they paid without a single comment. When my 240Z is finished, I plan to do it the same way again.

The RX7 pump is a good option, if you can find one. Several people run the carb'd RX7 pump - beandip for one. But I couldn't find an RX7 pump locally or affordably, so that's why I went with the one I did.

The Facet brand pumps are said to be noisy. The one I bought locally is the one in the link below. I got it from my locally owned parts house for $30. That pump is marketed under numerous brand names, and is available in a 2.5-4.5 psi version, as well as a 4-7 psi version. It is fairly quiet when mounted directly to the body, and totally silent when mounted to the cylinder head as mine is now. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp201.htm

It is true that the electric pumps push better than they pull. But mine seems to work OK pulling, and it was much easier to wire, route fuel lines and mount up front on the head. Wiring the relay - any normally open automotive relay will work. Same as you'd use for pair of fog lights. I didn't splice any of the factory wiring. The relay has four terminals - one is the ground, one is the power supply (goes to the positive battery terminal with an inline fuse), one is the hot lead to the pump, and the last is the trigger wire which I ran over to the coil and tapped into the positive lead there. When ever the ignition is switched on, the relay is energized by the trigger and sends battery power to the pump. There are several ways to wire the safety switch. You could use a second relay, but the most elegant way would be to connect the ground wire from the fuel pump relay to an additional oil pressure sender designed for an idiot light. Might take a touch of experimenting to get it right, but it would be simple and reliable.

Yup, they are shown there, on the lower left of page 63. Mentioned in the caption as well. Looks the same as in mine. His car (assuming that is his in the pictures) is #3547. Mine has them as well (#12746). Mine originated in Montana, not that it should matter.

Is modifying the P79 head worth it? No.The reason is that wiring an aftermarket electric pump is simple. The factory wiring can be used if you are planning to mount your pump in the back near the tank. The existing wiring is not connected to anything at either end. The other end is located in the wiring under the dash somewhere. On the other hand, I mounted an inexpensive 4.5 psi pump on the side of my P79 head, right where the mechanical pump would be. That simplifies all the fuel lines. I have a relay that is triggered from the lead from the ignition switch to the coil, that routes power from the battery to the pump. Very simple. As a final safety precaution, it is advisable to wire a circuit that cuts power to the pump when the oil pressure drops. This is to prevent fuel spills and fires in event of an accident. I haven't done this yet, but will before I get my car back on the road.

Welcome! Your car and mine came off the line relatively closely. Mine is 12746, also 10/70 build. Same color as well.

My series 1 hatch trim panel has screws as well, four of them, I believe. On the other hand, my car came to me with a 280Z hatch on it, and I don't know the VIN of the car that my series 1 hatch came off of. The donor car was orange...

Yes. The door itself (and consequently the glass as well) is longer on the 2+2 - about 4-6" as I recall. None of the door parts other than a few of the latch pieces are interchangable between coupes and 2+2s.

MSA lists repros in their catalog, no idea how good or if they're really in stock. If they do have them and you get one, please post back as I'd love to hear what you think of it.

From a 2+2? The doors (and windows) are longer on 2+2's, won't fit a coupe.

My car is a late series 1 (#12746, 10/70) which appears to have all its original interior trim. My car does have the chrome Phillips head screws on the door panel, but does not have the plastic scuff plates on the seat cushions.

You have a worn or mis-adjusted reverse switch on the transmission.

The Porsche that won the 1970-1980 import class is a 356. They stopped making those in the mid-sixties. He was in the wrong class. You should have won.

Crank-fire ignition?? No distributor!

For what it's worth, I never give my cores to the parts store at the time I pick up the parts, for this exact reason. You should be able to pay the core charge up front and get it refunded to you when you later return the core.

I've got a roll of teflon tape that is yellowish in color, and is supposed to be good for sealing petroleum products (oil, gas, etc.).