Everything posted by Arne
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Alternator Bracket differences
As far as I know, no. Sounds to me as if NAPA got you the wrong unit. Probably mis-boxed by their supplier. Have you already returned your core? If not, you can show them the difference so that they will believe you and get another unit.
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Now taking orders - 240Z to 280ZX alternator adapters!
I want to give a big "Thank you" to all of you who have supported this project. So far, just over 40 adapters have been sold, with pending orders for another 20. The vast majority have been to members of this club, even though I did advertise them on other sites as well. The truth is that at this price, neither I nor the person who builds them are making a lot of money on them. But that wasn't really the point. It is gratifying to offer a part to the Z community that I thought might fill a need. The orders and sales so far show that I was at least somewhat correct. Thanks to you all!
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block and head selection triple webers
F54 blocks are reputed to be stronger and more rigid. The N47 head will give much higher compression (around 10.5:1 or so), although the combustion chamber shape may not be as efficient.
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Wats on EBay
That set has been posted there since mid-February. The seller has turned down or ignored four offers so far. Apparently most people feel like I do - there a bit too rough for the price. Just my opinion, of course.
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help me spend some money please
Another thing to note is that the 260s had two fuel pumps - the mechanical on the head and an electric near the tank. Sounds like one or both might be bad.
- nic z in bahrain
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Early L24 parts value
I will not be picking up the engine with these parts - not now anyway. (Maybe later if the seller gets desperate?) Since I already have the parts I need to put a freshened L24 in my car, this engine would just be for resale, really. And I don't really have the time to devote to parting it out now.
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Anyone have head removal/installation specs?
Here: http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/15/c2/0900823d801d15c2.jsp
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Decisions,Decisions
Some thoughts: 1.) There are apparently problems with the Rewind center caps fitting on the front of 240Zs. 2.) Whether the 15" look "better" than the 14" is up to you. Myself, I prefer the taller sidewall look of the 14" - looks more "correct" to me. 3.) Not much available in 14" real performance tires these days.
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good body shops in Sacramento, CA
No promises, my weekends are busy this month - preparing to do the transmission swap.
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good body shops in Sacramento, CA
Exactly why I picked out my early vented tailgate from Danny in person.
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good body shops in Sacramento, CA
Danny has a pile of parts that are very useable. But if a car is parted out because it was too far gone to fix, chances are that the parts off it are not going to be pristine. The best of the stuff at Danny's will likely need to have a small ding or two dealt with before painting. Most of them will have several coats of paint, often in various colors. Not a fault of Danny or his stuff, that's just generally the case with used parts. Used parts rarely come off of really pristine cars, it's generally just the opposite. I've not yet dealt with Eric at ZParts personally, but I suspect that even his A parts will need some repair to be really ready. You'll need to be prepared for shipping damage as well. Hoods and fenders are going to be shipped via freight truck, and it's difficult to pack them well enough to avoid all damage.
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good body shops in Sacramento, CA
Danny is totally honest, and happy to exchange or refund any part you get from him that you aren't happy with. But - I have been to Danny's place twice, and have bought both hard parts and a rear tailgate. For body parts in the condition you want, I think you (or the shop you will deal with) will need to call Danny directly and explain to him in detail that you are looking for the best that he has. Even that may not be quite what you are looking for, but it will be close.
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stub stacks on SU's
I'm no expert on this, but I shouldn't think the flange would have any measurable effect. The goal (as I understand it) is to straighten out the airflow and reduce turbulence. If so, all you need is the radius are.
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stub stacks on SU's
I've heard that the stacks inside the factory air box are actually relatively good. (I have no personal knowledge of that, though.) So if I was planning to ditch the airbox in favor of aftermarket filters (I'm not), I'd look for something similar to the stock ones. Of the ones you pictured, the RamJet (4th pic) are closest.
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#913 On Ebay
I bought my car as a 5, hope to be at 4 by the end of the summer. My goal is a 2.5 or so. Better than a 3 but driven too much to be a 2.
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rust in gas, bad running now
What kind of fuel pump are you using? Factory type on the head? Or electric?
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Anyone in love with these - Actual Photo!
Unsprung weight is bad for handling too.
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Early L24 parts value
Please pay my respects to Her Majesty, I appreciate her blessings. I just wish the project were farther along. My current thought is that a.) if I get this second engine, and b.) if it has the 2400 cover, while it might be cool to have, it might be better to use it to finance other parts of the car. After all, my car is not going to be worth more with it, and it sure won't make it drive better. But money for more parts... that's another matter entirely. Chris, are there still people looking for SUs without the float drains? I didn't think they were all that rare?
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Early L24 parts value
Thanks, Chris, that's the kind of info I was looking for. I already have the '73 long block (E88 head), and it would be fine after a refresh. But everything else I have for my car is a real mixed bag. I have an opportunity to pick up a second L24, that looks really complete, from the picture I've been given. It has been confirmed to have the E31 head, and I can see the airbox and carbs in the picture. It might have the 2400 OHC valve cover, but I can't say for sure since I haven't seen the thing in person yet. I already have a set of 4 screw carbs (no float drains), but they are on the '72 manifolds. I really don't need the second engine, I have pretty much all I need to get my car running now. My car will never be totally original, I'm swapping the automatic for a Type A four speed, and the original engine is long lost. So it doesn't really matter to me if mine has an early L24 or one out of a '73. But I'm considering getting the early one anyhow, picking the best parts for my car, and then selling off what I don't need. Just a thought, when did the "Nissan 2400 OHC" covers stop? Would my car from 10/70 have come with one originally?
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Early L24 parts value
Hey folks, I'm looking at yet another L24 for additional parts. If I do this, I'm going to have some spare stuff left over. Anyone have any thoughts on value if I were to offer things like: Early (non-flapper) airbox4 screw SUs on '72 manifoldsL24 head, either E31 or small-valve E88 (not sure which)L24 short block, either a '70 or a '73 (again don't know which yet)Additionally, I'm going to have an L28 long block available too. An F54/P79 combo from an '83 ZX. Will likely need rings (oil control, has good compression). It will probably go cheap just to get rid of it. Anyway, any ideas on value of the L24 stuff? Or should I just figure on ebaying it all?
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Need Reliable Z
Just the ZXs had T-tops. None of the first body style had them, at least not from the factory.
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Switching to electronic ignition
Either the Pertronix-type or the later 280ZX ignition will work fine. The Pertronix is retro-fitted into your existing 240Z distributor, so it will be fine as long as your distributor is in really good shape. If, like many, your 240Z distributor has worn shaft bushings, the results will be not as good. Of the later distributors, the 280ZX ignition is preferred mainly because it is simple and self-contained. It is very easy to wire. The best choice is from a '79 or '80 280ZX. The '81 through '83 distributors are the same as the '79-80, but the module is not - and the proper E12-80 modules are starting to become difficult to find in some areas.
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Forum etiquette suggestions
I knew there was something I forgot - we all need to learn to not take things so seriously, or personally.
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Forum etiquette suggestions
Folks, I've only been around here for 9 months or so, but I can't have helped but notice that this site has a higher level of unfriendliness than other car-related forums I've frequented in the past. I know from things I've read here that we have lost knowledgeable people in the past to this attitude, and since I freely admit that I don't know it all, I'd like to make a couple of friendly suggestions on how we all (including myself) can make this a more welcoming site. 1.) Lighten up on the noobs and other mis-posters. Yes, maybe they don't know anything. Why? Probably because they're noobs! (We've all been there.) But they may have fresh ideas and info to offer, once they get rolling, so we don't want to chase them off after their first few posts. You can count on them continuing to ask about putting 240Z bumpers on their 280Z, and probably to ask that question in the Tech Articles forum. Oh well. It's going to happen, we need to accept it and move on. Assure them that it has been asked before, maybe link them to a simple search on their topic and let them learn from there. 2.) We need to think about how our replies to other folks' posts sound, before we hit submit. (I'm personally bad about this one.) Use the Preview button and read it through. If we don't agree, fine, but don't try to be sarcastic or 'cute' with your reply - sarcasm and such doesn't come across well in this medium because facial expressions and tone of voice are absent. It often just ends up sounding mean. It may sound trite, but making this forum a welcoming and courteous place to get and share info is in all our best interests.