Arne

Jim, I don't recall ever seeing one of your posts in the wrong forum, so I suspect that you already HAVE got it. I certainly hope that my venting a bit here (after a particularly bad episode of user support at work) hasn't driven you away.

How 'bout this one? It's aimed at 510s, but should be the same thing for Zs. http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html

Aren't the 240Z bearing caps taler than the 280Z caps? Seem to recall that Konig caps it on 280s but not 240s?

Caps have no effect on brake function. You've got air in the lines, or an open bleeder.

This final sentence is the key.

You might consider using a good synthetic such as Redline MTL. Bryan (nwcubman) just put that in his 240Z recently, and I run it in all the rest of my vehicles. (The Z doesn't have a manual transmission... yet.)

I agree, and I personally have learned to look there. But -- when the right column says "Engine & Drivetrain" it doesn't differentiate whether that is for 240/260/280Z, 280ZX or 240k. Same with "Interior" or "Electrical" or whatever. So holding up the right column as the locator is not the total answer. Lastly, I work in customer support for a living. Using that as a guide, I sincerely doubt that we will ever get the run-of-the-mill user to read the directions. Sad, but true.

Looks restorable to me, even to my West coast eyes. Looks to be worth saving.

Like this one?

Gee, here you have a '79 ZX distributor and you're thinking of getting rid of it? Many of the 240/260/280Z people on this site are hunting for that very unit! Seriously, for what you are describing, the distributor you have now is probably fine. If you want a nice hot spark, you could piggy-back something like an MSD 6A. Probably no real benefit to replacing the distributor itself unless it's worn out.

Yeah, and I think part of the reason is some of the very tools that make this site so easy to use. For example, if you bookmark the link for the last 24 hours posts (as I do), you see all these threads in one homogeneous list. There is no differentiation as to what forum a post is in. So you see a post, you read it and you reply to it - not even knowing that it is in the "Articles" forum. Or say you search the entire site for a thread on interior upholstery. You get a list of threads back, you read a few but don't see any that quite answer your question. So while still in one of the posts, you click to go to the thread's parent forum and post your question. But without noticing, you just posted a 240Z question in the 240k forum. This site has a whole lot of useful categories. Which makes it all the easier to mess up when posting. I'd hate to make it more difficult to use, in general. But the tech articles forum might be a special case. Perhaps holding articles for an admin's approval is the best answer for that one forum.

Certainly one of you guys who has installed this would like to write a review for the new Reviews section of the site? I'd do it myself, but that might not be fair...

My experiences with Monza are about 20 years old, and on water-cooled VWs. In that case, they fit acceptably well, looked nice, sounded good although a bit loud (I had an extra glass-pack welded in to quiet it), but didn't last long. In its defense, those old Sciroccos seemed to have something in their exhaust that rusted mufflers internally. In 15 years of Scirocco ownership, I never got more than 3 years out of an aftermarket muffler. When I get to that point, I'll take my 240Z to the local hot rodder's muffler shop, tell them what I'm after, and let them build it.

You must not have searched hard enough. This has been discussed here many times before. About once every 4-6 months in fact. I'm doing it next month. Here is one post (of many) on the subject: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6735

Gary, I'm not sure about your area, but here in Eugene there are several shops that will rebuild your alternator for you, for a pretty reasonable price as well. I personally would have it done, not attempt to do it myself. Especially on a unit that is as hard to find as that 70 amp alternator now appears to be.

Makes sense. Early cars got a 40 amp unit with a 45 amp ammeter. Later cars got the 45 amp unit with a 60 amp ammeter? These days even a 60 amp doesn't sound like much, but compared to stock...Russell - PM sent.

Before you can really take advantage of Dave's harnesses, you will need to correct the issues with your car's existing wiring. You didn't mention what year your car is, but I suspect the simplest solution will be to find replacement harness sections to replace the damaged sections. I recently had to do that to my 240Z. Here is the thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793

Ahhh! So you are reusing the existing bulb harness that is in the car! Then the differences I was talking about are immaterial. Your LED housings will in fact work in any year 240Z.

The actual connectors and terminals from the socket wiring to the rear harness are different as well. Not interchangeable, I'm sorry to say.

I don't know where the split is, but the taillight harness connectors are different between early and late 240Zs. I know because the wiring that came with my spare set of taillights (out of a '73) is different than what is in my early '71 (10/70). The early car uses the full-size 1/4" blade terminals, the '73 lights use the small mini-blades. I also noted that in the '73 wiring, the inner top bulb in the red is only wired as a tail light, not as a brake/turn. This is different from my Series I where all three bulbs in the red are used as brake/turn, and both upper bulbs are used as tail lights as well.

Thanks, JZM. Don't know if it's going to come down or not yet. If it does, I'll contact you.

I too would be interested in a repro.

Seems to me I recall the L20 pin height spec listed separately in my factory manual (has both L24 and L20 in the engine section). I'll try to remember to look that up when I get home this evening.

As I understand it, the L20 is a smaller bore and stroke than the L24, so pistons and rods are not interchangeable.

I bought a blanking plug from MSA for the parking light switch hole, it wasn't very expensive. It fits fine, but doesn't appear to mount correctly with the parts I have. I'm sure I can get it to work, I'll just have to get creative.