Arne

The 240Z alternator was rated at 40 amps, so the 60 amp unit is a 50% increase. Still significant. I don't know if the extra output of the 70 amp unit (assuming you could find one) would be all that necessary for most people. I'm using the 60 amp one.

More - Bryan Little's Z webpage states that the manual cars had the '8.5' marking, and that the automatics had a '9' marking. Not much difference, so I don't think I'd worry much about which I got.

Somewhere down the road I'm going to need to get one for my car. And while mine is a late series I, I will use any style I can find that's intact! (And affordable! )

The difference between manual and automatic transmission ZX distributors is in the mechanical advance curve. There is apparently a small difference in the weight of the centrifugal weights, and maybe in the springs as well. I haven't been able to confirm which is better, and it is not easy to determine whether a particular ZX distributor was from a manual or automatic without disassembling it. So I don't think I'd worry about that part too much.

Yeah, I guess I should be more careful about how I shoot off my mouth. I probably have more experience in this kind of stuff than others do, and things that make total sense to me may not to others. I edited my previous post to make bold the call to label if in doubt. And even that is probably too weak. You should label. I got away with out labeling, but maybe I got lucky. Don't do as I do, do as I say.

I spent more than 20 years in the tire industry, and I don't quite agree with some of the above statements.1.) H-rated tires are not all better quality than lesser rated tires. Far from it. There are plenty of very high quality S and T-rated tires, and plenty of H-rated that are not so great. In fact the compromises that are brought on by the desire to achieve a particular speed rating may actually reduce some aspect of the tire's performance when compared to a similar tire designed as a complete package, rather than to artificially meet one particular test. An H-rating by itself is not a good indicator of quality. 2.) Neither are stiffer sidewalls any kind of quality indicator. That is just one of many design features that may be spec'd by the committee designing the tire. In fact, stiff sidewalls can be counter productive for a high-speed tire. They may retain more heat at speed than a similar rated tire with a different sidewall design. Or not, depending on the rest of the tire's design. But again, by itself it is not a reliable indicator of quality, or even handling capability. 3.) But personal experiences of tires that you have been pleased with in the past are VERY valid. If you liked a particular H-rated tire in the past, there's really no real reason not to use the same make and model in a T-rated version, if such a tire exists. I suspect you'll find very little - if any - difference.

I just did mine last month, and that's the way I recall it too. I didn't label anything, and had no problems identifying where it went. Of course, the early 240Zs are a much simpler car than the later cars, and it may be that the later cars are different, so if in doubt - label it all.

No current personal experience with Sumitomo, sorry. How wide are your rims? If they are 5.5" you might consider going with 195/65-14 instead. That size is within a fraction of the same diameter, a touch wider, and shows six H-rated choices at the Tire Rack. The Yokohama Avid H4S is one of them.

I didn't find that taking it out was all that difficult, at least not in my early 240Z. Took me maybe 45 minutes or so? But putting it back in was time consuming, somewhere between 2 and 3 hours to get it all lined up and connected.

From something I saw in a different thread, I believe blue_leaf is in Australia. I don't know when (or if?) the strut tubes changed for the Oz market.

The MSD coil is not required, but it is a highly regarded coil. Regardless of what brand you choose, you do need to use a coil for electronic ignition, not a points-type coil. I have a similar setup to Dave's, my dizzy is from an '83 which came with the wrong ignitor module, but I bought a used E12-80 ignitor and swapped it on. For now, I have a cheap aftermarket coil that was intended for a '79 ZX. ($15 brand new.) Seems to work fine. With that distributor and a decent coil, you should easily be able to open the plug gap much wider. The ZXs that came with that combination called for .045" gap. I've got mine gapped wide like that and it seems to work great.

True for '70-72 models, but the '73 240Z (and the 260Z as well) did have an electric booster pump near the tank in addition to the mechanical pump on the head.

Are your SUs three screw, or four screw? Since you say the carbs are rebuilt, I'd suspect that the nozzle in the rear carb isn't centered well, and is binding. That is adjustable on the four screw SUs, but not on the three screw, IIRC. I'd be wary of going to some other kind of air cleaner just for this issue, as I'd fear that the other types might be more prone to icing up in your climate. A better solution would be to really fix the problem, so that you can keep the factory air cleaner.

And should you find a P90, you may not be happy with the compression it gives without modifications. On an L28 with flat-top pistons the P90 is only going to give 8.8:1 or so. Maybe 9.0 if you mill it a bit.

We didn't know that you were in OZ, it would be helpful for the future if you put your location in your profile so we can see things like that.

Well, I have the stock air cleaner, and yes it makes it difficult to adjust the carbs. But frankly, you shouldn't need to mess with them very often. Lots of people immediately start futzing with the carbs anytime the car does something different. But 95% of the time it's not the carbs and people just make the problem worse. Once they are properly set, it is best to leave them alone.

Just a quick note to thank all of you out there for your support. The response has been better than I had expected.

Say, to all you MSA-bound Washington residents: Anyone want to do me a favor? Will there be room in one of the cars on the South-bound leg to haul a pair of door panels from Tacoma to Eugene? I'd be happy to meet at some easily freeway accessible spot, and would be happy to donate to the cause. Any volunteers? Send me a PM!

Umm, let's think a bit here. If you are planning to stay with injection (and there's no reason not to if yours is working well), neither the E31 or E88 heads will work without serious mods. Neither of those heads have the notch to clear the injectors, nor do they have the holes for the injection manifold studs. Of the three you listed, your only reasonable choice is the N42.

Thanks loads for the pictures, Bobby! I'm hoping to do the swap on my car next month, and while I did know about the spacer, actually seeing what it looks like helps.

Yup, both Stephen's and Enrique's posts were a better way to say what I intended.I've got a vision for mine -- stock 919 yellow, stock seats, steering wheel and interior, all the original trim/emblems, mostly stock L24 and 4 speed. A set of period-correct mags (slots or Libres, ideally), front spook (maybe black, maybe yellow), nice looking/sounding exhaust, and the vintage Pioneer Supertuner in the dash. Maybe a set of black 240Z side stripes. Suspension will be Euro Stage I springs with KYB or Tokico HD, nothing radical. The non-vintage stuff will be limited - the ZX dizzy and alternator, modern H4 headlights, things like that. That's how it looks in my mind right now. Of course, things could change between now and when I get it done...

Probably time to lock this thread and move on. Nothing new will come of it now.

Mark, you'll have to change both the fan and the fan clutch, as the plastic fans won't fit the early clutch. While you could buy the complete kit (plastic fan, matching clutch and misc. hardware) from MSA, it is much more affordable to pick up a used assembly. But if you have or plan to get a fan shroud, you probably will want to stay with one from a '72-73 240Z, not the 260Z/280Z unit I got.

Not going to be able to go this year. Depending on the date next year I might be able to work it in with a trip down to LA that I will have to make (son's graduation). Will be able to do one trip down next year, and might be able to extend it some. But won't be able to swing two trips, so if the date is too far from mid-May, next year is out too. Dave, if you have the time on the way, you should stop for food or fuel in the Eugene area and maybe we could hook up for a short visit.

Update - I picked up a good used plastic fan and clutch off eBay. It was from a 260Z, and does appear to be a bit bigger in diameter, but fits fine. I got a great deal, picked up for less than $16 including shipping.