Arne

True for '70-72 models, but the '73 240Z (and the 260Z as well) did have an electric booster pump near the tank in addition to the mechanical pump on the head.

Are your SUs three screw, or four screw? Since you say the carbs are rebuilt, I'd suspect that the nozzle in the rear carb isn't centered well, and is binding. That is adjustable on the four screw SUs, but not on the three screw, IIRC. I'd be wary of going to some other kind of air cleaner just for this issue, as I'd fear that the other types might be more prone to icing up in your climate. A better solution would be to really fix the problem, so that you can keep the factory air cleaner.

And should you find a P90, you may not be happy with the compression it gives without modifications. On an L28 with flat-top pistons the P90 is only going to give 8.8:1 or so. Maybe 9.0 if you mill it a bit.

We didn't know that you were in OZ, it would be helpful for the future if you put your location in your profile so we can see things like that.

Well, I have the stock air cleaner, and yes it makes it difficult to adjust the carbs. But frankly, you shouldn't need to mess with them very often. Lots of people immediately start futzing with the carbs anytime the car does something different. But 95% of the time it's not the carbs and people just make the problem worse. Once they are properly set, it is best to leave them alone.

Just a quick note to thank all of you out there for your support. The response has been better than I had expected.

Say, to all you MSA-bound Washington residents: Anyone want to do me a favor? Will there be room in one of the cars on the South-bound leg to haul a pair of door panels from Tacoma to Eugene? I'd be happy to meet at some easily freeway accessible spot, and would be happy to donate to the cause. Any volunteers? Send me a PM!

Umm, let's think a bit here. If you are planning to stay with injection (and there's no reason not to if yours is working well), neither the E31 or E88 heads will work without serious mods. Neither of those heads have the notch to clear the injectors, nor do they have the holes for the injection manifold studs. Of the three you listed, your only reasonable choice is the N42.

Thanks loads for the pictures, Bobby! I'm hoping to do the swap on my car next month, and while I did know about the spacer, actually seeing what it looks like helps.

Yup, both Stephen's and Enrique's posts were a better way to say what I intended.I've got a vision for mine -- stock 919 yellow, stock seats, steering wheel and interior, all the original trim/emblems, mostly stock L24 and 4 speed. A set of period-correct mags (slots or Libres, ideally), front spook (maybe black, maybe yellow), nice looking/sounding exhaust, and the vintage Pioneer Supertuner in the dash. Maybe a set of black 240Z side stripes. Suspension will be Euro Stage I springs with KYB or Tokico HD, nothing radical. The non-vintage stuff will be limited - the ZX dizzy and alternator, modern H4 headlights, things like that. That's how it looks in my mind right now. Of course, things could change between now and when I get it done...

Probably time to lock this thread and move on. Nothing new will come of it now.

Mark, you'll have to change both the fan and the fan clutch, as the plastic fans won't fit the early clutch. While you could buy the complete kit (plastic fan, matching clutch and misc. hardware) from MSA, it is much more affordable to pick up a used assembly. But if you have or plan to get a fan shroud, you probably will want to stay with one from a '72-73 240Z, not the 260Z/280Z unit I got.

Not going to be able to go this year. Depending on the date next year I might be able to work it in with a trip down to LA that I will have to make (son's graduation). Will be able to do one trip down next year, and might be able to extend it some. But won't be able to swing two trips, so if the date is too far from mid-May, next year is out too. Dave, if you have the time on the way, you should stop for food or fuel in the Eugene area and maybe we could hook up for a short visit.

Update - I picked up a good used plastic fan and clutch off eBay. It was from a 260Z, and does appear to be a bit bigger in diameter, but fits fine. I got a great deal, picked up for less than $16 including shipping.

From my prior experience bleeding clutches (on other cars, granted, my 240 still has an automatic in it), I'd do it differently. First, make sure that the bleeder screw is pointing up. (I don't think this is a problem on a Z, but other cars I've done have had to have the cylinder unbolted from the transmission to bleed properly.) Second, don't pump it up - that may force the air past the bleeder. Instead, open the bleeder and push down once on the pedal and hold it down. Tighten the bleeder, release the pedal (slowly) and repeat.

I guess I'd start with the simple stuff - are you absolutely certain that ALL the air has been bled out of the line?

You don't need a mechanical pump, just any pump that puts out 4 to no more than 5 psi. Or you could even keep the injection pump if you use a pressure regulator set at 4-5 psi. I did this last fall. Not to hard. Here is the summary: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=149555&postcount=6

Seattle/Tacoma Airport. Sorry.

Perhaps, but they are very 'period' and will look just right on a mostly stock Series I.At least, they would to me, but everyone is different.

Is there anyone who might be willing to help me get some parts shipped from the SeaTac area? I'm looking at buying some parts from a guy who is clueless on packing and shipping. What I'd need is to have someone stop by the dude's place after I have paid him, pick up the parts, pack them and ship them to me. I'd be happy to pay a bit for time and effort, in addition to the shipping cost itself, of course. Any volunteers?

May I please have the wheels off the last one? Please?

I'd recommend looking through the gallery for setups that look good to you, and then asking the owners what they have. Because 'crap' is totally subjective. What I think looks like 'crap' may look damn good to you.

Perfect! I appreciate it, Mat.

Search the forum archives, this subject has been covered many times. Here is one of many threads on this topic: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6735

A normal L-series in a Z runs between 8.5 and 9.0. A P79 needs to have flat top pistons to make normal power. You will be way down on power with compression that low.