Arne

From my prior experience bleeding clutches (on other cars, granted, my 240 still has an automatic in it), I'd do it differently. First, make sure that the bleeder screw is pointing up. (I don't think this is a problem on a Z, but other cars I've done have had to have the cylinder unbolted from the transmission to bleed properly.) Second, don't pump it up - that may force the air past the bleeder. Instead, open the bleeder and push down once on the pedal and hold it down. Tighten the bleeder, release the pedal (slowly) and repeat.

I guess I'd start with the simple stuff - are you absolutely certain that ALL the air has been bled out of the line?

You don't need a mechanical pump, just any pump that puts out 4 to no more than 5 psi. Or you could even keep the injection pump if you use a pressure regulator set at 4-5 psi. I did this last fall. Not to hard. Here is the summary: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=149555&postcount=6

Seattle/Tacoma Airport. Sorry.

Perhaps, but they are very 'period' and will look just right on a mostly stock Series I.At least, they would to me, but everyone is different.

Is there anyone who might be willing to help me get some parts shipped from the SeaTac area? I'm looking at buying some parts from a guy who is clueless on packing and shipping. What I'd need is to have someone stop by the dude's place after I have paid him, pick up the parts, pack them and ship them to me. I'd be happy to pay a bit for time and effort, in addition to the shipping cost itself, of course. Any volunteers?

May I please have the wheels off the last one? Please?

I'd recommend looking through the gallery for setups that look good to you, and then asking the owners what they have. Because 'crap' is totally subjective. What I think looks like 'crap' may look damn good to you.

Perfect! I appreciate it, Mat.

Search the forum archives, this subject has been covered many times. Here is one of many threads on this topic: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6735

A normal L-series in a Z runs between 8.5 and 9.0. A P79 needs to have flat top pistons to make normal power. You will be way down on power with compression that low.

What block and type pistons are you using?

I have always wanted an R5 Turbo2! Man, what a fun bunch of cars to watch. Until the end...

I'd be happy to use a non-OEM spring, but since none of this is in the car yet I can't accurately measure it all. I was kinda hoping someone might have one they could measure for me so I can get it ahead of time.

I need some info on the return spring that mounts on the clutch slave cylinder. Not sure which cars came with this, but the early 240Zs did at least. I'm almost done gathering my parts to swap in a Type A 4 speed instead of the factory automatic. But I don't have that spring, nor do I see it available anywhere (catalogs or websites). Can anyone give me the dimensions and approximate tension rate on one so that I can look for an alternative?

If you were 100 miles farther south, or me up there, I'd do it. But for me to drive up and back for the day doesn't work well for me. Sorry.

I think I would describe my goal as in between yours and the show car thing. It won't be original, but will be VERY presentable. I doubt I will ever bother showing it, but will drive it back and forth to work. I want it to look, drive and sound like a slightly modified 240Z from the mid-seventies.

Pertronix is a good choice IF you have a decent dizzy to put it in. Problem is that most 240Z dizzies are worn out by now. Unilite is also great. But far from affordable. The ZX dizzy with E12-80 is affordable, and still works well. They are much easier to find with the bushings still serviceable. Dave, often the later ZX dizzies (with the E12-93 box) are significantly cheaper at the yards, since none of us want that combination. If so, I just got an E12-80 box for my E12-93 dizzy from a vendor in CA that was tested, guaranteed and quite affordable. So if you see an E12-93 dizzy, try to buy it cheap, then give me a PM. I'll make a couple calls to some yards around here, as well.

Michael, the dizzy is from a ZX, same vintage as the engine. The ignitor box mounted on the side of the distributor is the key. I can't tell from your pictures if the ignitor box is the good one (E12-80) or the not-so-good one (E12-93). If the pair of terminals on the top of the box are all there are, it is the good one. If there is an additional terminal on the side nearest the vacuum pot, it is the less desirable one from '82-83. Don't know if you would be able to tell much by looking under the cam cover, the Nissan cams are quite durable, so even if the engine is rebuilt it could still have the factory cam in it. All in all, it looks much like the '83 ZX mill in my car right now. Hopefully it is in better shape than mine - while mine has good compression, a whole lot of oil gets past the rings and it fouls plugs. The F54 blocks are the better ones to use for a hot motor, they have flat top pistons and are more rigid with their siamesed cylinders. The only problems with a P79 is the round exhaust ports, which probably isn't all that horrible for a street motor. I'll be curious to see what you get for it, mine will be surplus later this summer. (But I'm keeping my ZX alternator and dizzy.) I wish you were closer - I could really use the engine stand. :classic:

Update - First, comparing the engine number of my L24 to those on the ZHome.com register, I have decided that my engine is - in fact - from a '73. Not a '72 as I was told. It does have the valve reliefs in all 6 pistons. As best I can measure (not having a micrometer handy today), the bores appear to be the stock 83 mm, so I don't think it has been bored before. Which is good, since I did more cleaning and am now certain that the cylinder walls are pitted. On the other hand, take a look at the attached picture. Note the stamped numeral '3' towards the front on the non-valve side of the piston. All six pistons have the 'H' stamp on them, and cyl. 1-5 have the '3'. But cyl. 6 has a '2' instead. Do these look like factory pistons to you guys? Or are they oversize, the first 5 being .030" over and the 6th being .020" over? So I will definitely be looking for a good buy on cast pistons for an L24. Last question - assume that I have an E88 head on it, should I be looking for pistons with the valve reliefs, or can I use normal flat-tops?

The one I saw (and he has several) had guides, but I don't think it had towers. Had the head thickness marked on it by each cylinder. The were all in the 4.23 range, as I recall.

Got back from Danny's, he has several N47s, at least one bare head that are shaved (but not as much as yours) that he said he could make you a good deal. Email him at dannye@mcsi.net Or if you want to wait until I get my spare motor rebuilt, I'll make you a deal on my P79. But I don't think I'll be ready for several months.

I watched them in 10.4.5 in Safari, using the Flip4Mac Quicktime plug-in that allows Safari to play Windows Media files. The plug-in is free, and does run in 10.3.9, as long as your Quicktime is up to date.This is second nature to me, I support Macs (and XP too) for a living.

True, and my car has no radio now either, so I don't know if it's necessary. Don't know when I'll get to the point of installing my new-to-me Pioneer Supertuner. I'll leave my cap in place for now.On the other hand, it wouldn't surprise me if the ZX alternator has RF shielding built-in.

I think Dave is right. I left mine in place, probably does nothing now. Since yours is OK without it, I may remove mine too.