Arne

I'd have bought a Kraco like that had I seen one, like my Pioneer, they simply SCREAM '70s! I owned both Kracos and Pioneers back in the day. You might have got a better deal, though. Mine isn't NOS, it's used. (But it looks almost new.) I had to pay $20 for mine.

OK, maybe no one else will get excited about this, but I'm pretty stoked. I got a radio today for my early '71 240Z. Since my goal for the car is not completely stock, but period correct (I want it to look like a typical mildly-modified 240Z as they were driven in the mid-70s), I decided a while back that a factory AM radio wasn't quite what I wanted. After all, large numbers of those AM radios got yanked and replaced by aftermarket AM/FM/cassette decks. So that was what I decided I wanted to find - a vintage shaft-type AM/FM/cassette deck, even though I no longer own any cassettes. Well, I found it, and it's near perfect. It's a Pioneer KP-8000 Supertuner dating from 1975 or so. It's in great shape. Don't know if the tape drive still works, and don't really care anyway. FM does work, and that's all I really need. The Pioneers from back then did have a power antenna lead, so I can replace my dead original antenna with a similar-looking full-auto unit at half (or less) the price of the OE unit. It also has only two speaker outputs, so that will go well with a pair of speakers in the stock location. Anyway, I just had to share. I think this unit will look great in the Z's dash!

The ZX alternator looks like this:

It's possible, yes. I don't know how likely that is though.

Does not look like a ZX alternator to me - definitely not the same as the ZX unit on my car.

Actually, yes we do. If he can't make enough profit on them to make it worth his time, they won't be available at any price.

I'm not sure that you can get them all from any single supplier. Probably have to get some from one, some from another, etc. I do like the paint code decal from Zeddsaver as it comes with the paint code number pre-stenciled. I've never seen anyone else offer it that way.

Pinto carbs on a Z? That just sounds wrong!

I wouldn't bet on $20k, probably more like $14k to maybe $16k. Of course, what do I know, I bought mine for 10% of that! Not even close to that nice, or low a VIN, of course...

Oh my! Did people really do that? I figured the plural was a typo. That plus I always associate "Clifford" with the four barrel manifold, and "Cannon" with the dual two barrel manifold adapters.But if they are twin Pinto carbs - they need to go away.

No. What you are describing is not ignition related. It is in the fuel delivery.That said, I personally despise Champion plugs, and would throw them far, far away. Most Nissan/Datsun people use NGK for good reason - they work. But the plugs aren't your problem right now.

White plug indicate that it's running lean, and the backfire and loss of power at top can also indicate that. Since the rear plugs are whiter than the front, I'd guess that there is something wrong with the rear carb. Low float level, way whacked mixture setting, needle came loose and fell into the nozzle, stuck piston, ??? Anyway, it looks to me as thought the rear carb is rear you should start hunting.

Joey, I can see the thumbnail on the frontpage. Looks like the rocker panel is rusted through. And yes, you need to have that repaired, the rockers (also called sills) are an important part of the body structure.

Photo is pending admin approval.

Yeah, the injection on the 280Z was pretty simple, electrically. Not as simple on the ZX's, but that's not what Dave is looking for.

Dave, I'm down in the Eugene area, and from what I've seen it shouldn't be too hard to find a decent 280Z automatic, as long as you're patient. You want me to keep my eyes open for you? Side benefit to an auto - The cars with autos all seemed to be in better shape than the sticks when I was looking for my 240.

It was listed on the auction as HLS30-01281. So not quite a 3 digit car, but still pretty cool.Here is a link to the auction: Kurt's 240Z

Good question. I know that VDO used to make little plastic bulb covers that they shipped with their gauges. You typically got a clear bulb with both green and red-orange covers. Don't know if those are still available, or whether they'd fit the bulbs used on the Zs. Hmm.. Edit: Did a quick Google, maybe these might be OK? www.egauges.com

The green filters are plastic lenses, not paper. If you remove them you could probably use different colored bulbs instead. But be careful not to use bulbs of higher wattage than comes stock, for fear of overheating the wiring and/or cooking the gauges. I don't know about the 280Z, but the 240Z came with 3.4 watt bulbs in the gauges.

Don't know how Mass. emissions laws are, best would be to check with you local authorities to be certain.

I tried ATF in my carbs, got that same backfire on quick throttle openings. I suspect that the slides are opening too far, too fast. I plan to go to 20wt. in mine, as recommended by my FSM. ATF is typically about 5wt. IIRC.

I used Tri-flow on mine. The teflon in it seems to last a long time, also.

Good point. I won't make any plans until I get it off the block.

I've got an E88 head that might have a problem. The opening where the thermostat housing attaches looks as if it has eroded in spots. I'm afraid that there may not be enough surface left for the gasket to seal against. Has anyone seen this issue? Is it possible to have this welded and re-surfaced? Or is this head simply scrap metal?

The inner and outer tie rod ends should be greased. But if the lube is low inside the rack and pinion tube itself (a rare problem), GL4 gear oil should be added.