Arne

I agree, looks like the input for the instrument lighting.

I'd heard that too. But I've also heard from lots of 240 owners who had no problem with the original tach at all, so I tried it. Tach works fine, no mods needed at all.

Any of you who have manual transmission 240Z's built from 2/70 through 12/70 - help! If any of you have the dashes out of your car (so that the harness part number tags can be easily seen), I could use the numbers from both sections for both the 2/70-9/70 and the 10/70-12/70 versions. I know the assembly part numbers for both of those stretches, but most used parts suppliers want the actual sub-harness numbers instead.

That should do it, unless you have an automatic. I'm using the two you mention, plus a third for the vacuum kickdown on the automatic. When I swap in the 4 speed, I'll be down to just two also.

WOW! That sure looks like a nice one!

Two separate issues. Installing the injection in a carburated car can be done, but it's a bit of a job to do it right. I'd normally recommend that 240Z owners stay with the carbs. (And trust me, I know about this one, because I had to un-do a previous owner's botched injection install on my car.)But the electronic ignition is a good upgrade from the original points ignition. Simple and easy to do. I've got that one too.

Yeah, I think its early too. I don't think the late ones had the recess in the rear quarter panel for the bumpers.

Got any pictures?

Well... L28 = 2800cc, L24 = 2400cc. More displacement = more power. Plus the L28s are considerably newer, and so many have much less wear.

I think it's early. If the front turn signals are under the bumper, it's early. If they are in the grill, it's late.

I don't know about the rest of the world, but I believe that here in the US the rear sway bar wasn't fitted by the factory until the 260Z for '74.

Looks pretty cool. I'd like to have the early one, but I'll bet it'll go for way more than I'm willing to pay.

Oh, well. Had to ask. :nervous:

Way cool! You want to sell me your wiring harnesses? See the thread below: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793

Here's the scoop so far. After more research, and corresponding with several possible suppliers, the two choices I listed in the last post are still accurate. Either find a replacement dash harness assembly that is the same as mine, or replace both the dash and engine harnesses together. As I feared, the harness I have now (automatic from 10/70 to 12/70) appears to be rather hard to find period, to say nothing about finding a good unmolested one. But further thought now makes me think that might not be such a bad thing, as it tends to force me to do it 'right.' You see, the more I think about it, the more I think I'd like to replace the engine harness anyway. I think my current engine harness is OK, but is it really? When the fusebox suffered its meltdown, it melted wires in the dash harness as well. Could it have melted wires even farther back into the engine harness? Certainly. Did it? Don't know. But I do know that my car does not have a fusible link on it right now (removed and bypassed at some time before I bought the car), and that makes me suspicious. So I think my preference right now is to replace both of those harnesses. To ensure that everything works, what I believe I want is to keep my existing rear body harness (24014-E4601, used on all early cars up through 12/70), get a good engine harness (24012-E4601, used on manual transmission cars from 2/70 to 12/70) and a good dash harness (preferably 24013-E4602, manual from 10/70 to 12/70). I could possibly use dash assembly 24013-E4601 (from 1/70 to 9/70), but I don't know what differences that might require under the dash. Can anyone out there think of any electrical differences between late '70 cars and the very early '71s in the dash harness area? Warning lights? Door buzzer? Something else? Edit: I've now been told that the earlier production cars (prior to 10/70) did not come with the key-in-ignition buzzer. If true, that may well be the only difference in the dash harnesses listed above. And since I could live without the buzzer, that would open more options for me.

Yeah! I like yellow on early Zs! Of course, I also like early Zs in orange, gold, red, blue...

You don't. The ammeter shows the aggregate of the output of your alternator minus the load from the electrical devices. It's going to change when the load changes.Ideally, I'd like my cars to have both. But I'll make do with whichever one it came with, it's not worth it to me to add other gauges.

Yeah, I have them on my other cars, not the Z yet. I just don't like disposable stuff. I'd rather have something I can buy once and not throw away later. I can verify that they do (or can) flow more air - when using them on a motorcycle (especially a two stroke), the carb jetting needs to be fattened up a bit. The K&N flows just enough more that they end up running just a touch leaner.

Hmm. Must be one of the very last Series I cars, with a number that high. Some good stuff there, note that it still has its original steel water-pump-killing engine fan. I can't tell if it still has headlight covers, or just the mounting clips for them. But there's a whole lot to work with there. I wonder what color it started life as?

No, they are a pair. The one on the left of the picture is sitting with the manifold side facing the camera, the other is sitting with the airbox side facing the camera. These carbs are not for a '70, they are for a '72. Note the coolant passage to the nozzle area on the left one. In general, four screw carbs were used in '70 and '71, three screw carbs in '72.

I've got nothing against silver, I own a silver car, but not a Z. I just think that yellow or orange or even 920 gold are better on an early Z. Or I should say that those are my personal faves. Absolutely. Mine isn't all that bad, rust-wise. But I'd much rather have paid more for a car like that had I been able to at the time.

Agreed. I wouldn't count on the mileage, and the seller isn't actually claiming it, just suggesting. But the body does look exceptionally solid. Probably worth it. But... silver?

I'll let the post speak for itself. 240Z on eBay

True, in many parts of the country (where there aren't emissions tests) that stuff is long gone. I'm sure mine was disposed of when they stuffed in the injected ZX L28. But if I still had it all, I'd probably still have it on the car, just because.

Yup. I used to make a living selling wheels and tires, from '76 through '98. It's a Progressive Wheel fake 'billet' style. Early to mid '90s, for certain.