Arne

If true, that indicates that the car was running slightly rich before.

Could be, I don't have any headers on my 240 yet. But in decades of car tinkering I've heard of bad fit issues with most headers, many brands and for many different car makes. I've always assumed that all headers suffer from fit issues, that way I'm not disappointed when I have to fight with them.

No experience with Pacesetter, but you can order headers from MSA with a similar coating pre-applied as well. MSA's coated header list.

Yeah, that's the Chassis and Body manual. I believe the engine was covered in a separate book.

In the case of the early series I cars, yes. But only in that the hole for the shifter has been cut and extended towards the rear a little, to allow the gear indicator plate to sit flat. I still don't know what I'm going to do about that when I swap in the early 4 speed I have sitting on the floor in the garage. Don't know if I can make the outer shift boot cover the difference or not. Might have to replace the console - even though my original one is in one piece and restorable.

As noted by others it's a personal decision. When finished, my goal is for mine to look period correct for the early '70s - vintage 14" mags, front spook, otherwise stock. But mechanically anything that makes it work well is OK - L28, ZX dizzy and alternator, plus whatever else seems right to me.

Thanks. We'll see if I can keep it up through the whole job. Here's to hoping...

Well, I don't find it to be so bad. Yes, there is some rust, but past that there is a lot more to work with here than with some previous restorations I've worked on. Working on my cars is recreation for me. It will take time and money, but I'd rather spend it on restoring a worthy car, it beats spending it on golf. (No offense intended to any golfers, I just don't understand.)

Early ('70 and '71) knobs take a different size set screw than later knobs. I believe the early set screw is smaller in diameter.

Man, I hope I remember to take a look at it for you this weekend...

Hard to say, I want them all on my car. But shaving the emblems is one of the most common appearance modifications I've seen for an early Z, so there must be a lot of people who prefer it this way.

Let's see, you're in Scottsdale - so how about calling Z Car Source of Arizona? Seems like a natural, since they are also in Scottsdale...

I'm pretty sure that those two wires are connected to each other on mine, but won't have a chance to verify this until the weekend at best. (And that's assuming that I remember to look.)

Two thoughts. I also have a big roll of 3M tape, which I used to attach the trim to an old Chevy truck I refreshed years ago. This tape will definitely do the job, in fact it is what GM used on the truck when it was new - no holes were used at all. The tape I have has green backing, not red, and it appears to be removable. I have done so at various times, with no damage to aftermarket paint. So perhaps there are more than one grade of 3M trim tape. But you may want to look the body over carefully, as the original holes may not have been welded, but simply filled with bondo. Look at the underside of the hood, for example, you might be able to see where the holes used to be. If so, re-drilling them out should be easy. The emblem holes in the replacement hatch I got recently were filled this way, and it is obvious where the holes should be, and easy to drill them back out.

Thanks, Gary. I'll try him as well when I shop. Before I start contacting vendors, I want to re-verify the part numbers. Probably won't get to that until the weekend.

My car is an automatic, but will have a four speed later next summer (assuming I get the wiring debugged), so the presence or lack of the kickdown wire is immaterial to me. Agreed. I paid several hundred dollars (in 1992 dollars) for the harnesses for the MG, but they were worth every penny. Even as good as most of my wiring is, for daily reliability I'd be willing to lay out some serious cash for BRAND NEW harnesses, if they were available. But if used is all I can get, I may as well keep the ones that I already have that are decent.Thanks for all your info, Enrique. If you make it down to the Eugene area some time, look me up. I'll have a nice, dark homebrew waiting for you.

I think at this point, as long as you have full documentation of the whole process, the value of the car is probably not diminished too badly. Especially for someone who wants a driver of some sort, and not a concours original show queen.

I will concede that PayPal may not have been the cause, but the way they handled the deal was horrible. My friend was trying to "stop the bleeding" and clean up the mess, and all PayPal could do was threaten him with bad credit reports and continued efforts to "complete" a totally bogus transaction.I will also concede that this happened before PayPal became a division of eBay, but I'm personally still a bit gun shy. I will not attempt to disuade any one else from using the service if they are comfortable with it, my reasons for not using it myself apply only to me.

Well, my car is remarkably stock, and the harnesses are pretty much intact, un-modified and un-damaged, with the obvious exception of the two dash harnesses. If the fusebox hadn't suffered its oh-so-typical meltdown, I think the wiring in my car would be fine. So rather than the complete transplant, I'm going to lean towards replacing just the two dash harnesses. More research seems to indicate that most (if not all) Series I cars came with the following two harnesses in the dash - 24013-E4650 & 24013-E4651. So I think that is the direction I will proceed from here.It does seem odd to me though, considering the following of these cars and the number of restorations in progress, that no suppliers have stepped up to reproduce wiring harnesses. The best thing I did on my old MGB restoration was to replace all the wiring with brand new replacement harnesses. Expensive, but worth it in that case. While the reliability (or lack of) of English electricals is legendary, I drove that car as my daily driver for several years after that with not a single electrical failure of any kind. So I do know the value of having a good electrical system, but I'm reluctant to change from the current harness (with known problems) for a completely different one of unknown provenance. If brand new harnesses were available, I'd probably spring for one. But if the best I can do is used, I'll probably only get replacements for parts that I know are bad.

I wanted to buy the CD from the club, but the only payment method there is PayPal - and due to knowing a person who experienced a rather ugly identity theft problem stemming from PayPal, I no longer have a PayPal account. I guess I need to contact Mike directly on this, after all, he only lives 50 miles away from me.

So are the pigtails to the fusebox part of the two dash harnesses? Or something different? And is the info on the part number location on the following link correct? If so, I know where to look for the part numbers. In fact the numbers listed on that page may be the right ones. http://www.zparts.com/selectzp/dash_fs.htm

Yes, please Rick. Pictures will help loads. And if you can see any of the white part number labels on the wiring bundles, those numbers would be invaluable!

I spent some time this afternoon trying to debug the wiring mess in my early '71 240Z, and the findings aren't good. When the original fusebox melted for one of the previous owners, it took out one or more wires in one of the harnesses as well. Said wire(s) got hot enough to destroy the insulation on several other wires in the bundle as well. This is where my problem with a constant battery draw comes from, I'm sure. The farther I unwrap, the worse it gets. So I'm looking for info on the various harness pieces, as I fully expect I'll have to replace some. Specifically the one(s) that connect to the fusebox leads with six-terminal connectors. I've got several questions: There are two separate medium sized wire bundles leading to the fusebox. As far back under the dash as I can see, they remain separate. Are these really separate harnesses? Or do they merge into one somewhere back in there? I was looking for the part number tag(s), but haven't spotted any yet. Approximately where on the harness can I expect to find the number tag(s)? I assume that I'll need to remove the dash pad to extract and replace these harnesses, true or false? Anyone have any data on what part numbers might be proper for the early cars? How specific are the 240Z harnesses? My car is a Series I (build date 10/70), if I'm not worried about absolute originality, will harnesses from a late '71 or a '72 be close enough that they can be made to work reasonably? For example, could I use a '72 harness if I use the later short pigtail fusebox? Fusebox must be replaced as well, anyone have any experience with the updated replacement that MSA sells? Lastly, anyone have any experiences with this outfit, or any other recommendations for good harnesses? eBay user azariar, restored 240Z harness

Here in the US, there was no factory option of a five speed for any 240 or 260Z. The five speeds weren't offered by Nissan here until the '77 model year. That said, you may be able to identify which type five speed you have using the info on these pages: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html http://www.gracieland.org/cars/techtalk/gearing2.html

I take it your car is paintless right now, Bryan?Anyway, yes mine has a decorative coating on all the body surfaces. But not all the parts are the same color, and in general I think that calling it "paint" in its current condition is probably being generous. It will need to be stripped and painted before I'll call it done. (My avatar picture is not a fair representation - not only is it small enough to hide flaws, I Photoshopped it as well. )