Arne

Yeah, the '82 would have come with the E12-93, but I'm certain that's not the problem. I've still got the E12-93 on my car (until I find an affordable E12-80) and as long as you advance the timing to compensate for the lack of input from the injection brain (about 8 degrees, IIRC), it works OK. Not ideal, but OK.

I don't think it's the module, like you said, I think they are all or nothing. Did you remove or bypass the ballast resistor? and are you using a coil designed for electronic ignition, or just the stock 240Z coil?

I agree with Beandip that the needle valve and/or float on that rear carb seems to be causing a problem, sometimes sticking open, others sticking closed. I set my float levels much lower than you did, about 9/16". (The spec I used said 14-15 mm.) I then verified that the actual fuel level in the bowl with the fuel pump running was at 23 mm below the seam between the float bowl and the float cover (as shown in the attached image). I screwed the mixture adjusters all the way into the carb (full lean), and then backed both adjusters out 2.5 full turns. All of my adjustments were based on that as a baseline setting.

First gathering is for pizza this coming Friday (12-9), in Springfield. 6:00 to 6:30 or so. The address is on the website, and I can help with directions if you're not familiar with Springfield.

I'm certainly not happy with mine, but I already voted.

Clear lower lenses are OK, as using amber bulbs is DOT approved. But rear reflectors are technically required by DOT and most states. Clear lenses with red bulbs are also non-compliant as DOT does not currently approve any red-colored bulbs.That said, someone who doesn't know much about early Z's would have to be pretty observant to even notice that the reflectors were missing. Less so to see clear upper halves, but even then since so many ricer Hondas have been using clear lenses with red bulbs I doubt it would be an issue.

Looks like eBay pulled the auction.

Plastic. And not very good plastic, after 35 years. One of my chrome trims is broken, the other is intact but the chrome is peeling badly. If someone tooled up to reproduce those, I'm betting the market would be HUGE.

I'm going to cruise the salvage yards soon, looking for an E12-80 ignition module to replace the E12-93 that was on the '83 ZX engine a PO put in my 240Z. Seems to me that this module came on '79-80 280ZXs, some Maximas and maybe some 210s as well. Any other Datsun models I should look for? Since many of the local yards aren't pick-n-pull, any particular years I should ask for? (Yards around here seem to ask a higher price for Z parts than they do 210 parts.)

Yup. Bad ground connection at the rear of the car. Track the black wires from the lights and see where they connect to the body.

Jay, if I add this to the other electrical problems that I recall seeing you post, I think it's possible that your Z has a serious overcharging issue. I suspect that it is putting out so much voltage that all your electrical parts are overheating or burning out. You need to get the charging system tested professionally, including (especially?) the voltage regulator.

Sounds like it could be the regulator to me.

I performed some quick and dirty readjustment on my carbs last weekend. And it's all good, starts quickly, idles smoothly at about 800 rpm, and for the first time since I bought it - it doesn't miss! Still probably needs some fine-tuning, but for a car that isn't yet ready for the road, it's running pretty dang good. Re: the not shutting off with the key - that is fixed too. My car has a 280ZX alternator on it (that I wasn't aware of). And whoever did the swap didn't know not to connect the external regulator. With the diode and jumpers, that's all good as well. Tach now works and is accurate. (Or as accurate as an early 240Z tach ever was. )

I understand your concern with the gray not complimenting the orange, but I've yet to see a 240Z with any color tail panel other than factory that looks right, regardless what color the car itself is. Black looks too harsh, color matched always looks cheap to me. I'll also vote for the factory color.

Lenses only. No back reflector part, no chrome strip. I'm happy for having the lenses, but I need the chrome far worse.

! Professional Japanese magazine gets the image reversed? Take a look at the bottom right picture in the second scan. Spark plugs on the left and intake on the right - on an L28 engine?

So let's clarify - You hear it with the engine running in neutral, with the clutch pedal out (released). When you depress the clutch pedal, the noise goes away. If I have this right, I suspect either the input shaft bearing, or the needle bearings between the input shaft and the mainshaft. Can you hear the noise while driving? If so, it's characteristics under certain conditions can help us determine which bearings are bad. But either one means a transmission removal and teardown.

Exhaust looks like stock cast iron manifold, complete with the pre-heater tube. Not a header.

The first auction ended on the 20th of this month - how you gonna get it to London that fast?

I capped both of those off when I removed the injection from my car, Kendall. I did not hook up the coolant lines to my manifolds.

I've been slowly removing/correcting/fixing the things inflicted on my poor Series I ever since I got it. Making progress, but still have a ways to go. Once I get the previous owners' issues dealt with, then I can start on the rust...

No sealant or adhesive should be needed on a manifold gasket. The carbs are on mine now, and working well so far. Details on the car's web site, linked in the signature below.

Yeah, when I do buy my spook, I will get it from Les, even if it does cost more. Gotta support those people who still make parts for our cars, you know.

Looks like we are talking about two different vendors here. I had assumed that all these lenses were coming from the same place, but that is apparently not so. The ones in the eBay link are from Too Intense, a normal Datsun supplier who actually tooled up new molds for these lenses. The Klearz.com lenses are stated as being "hand made, and while the surface of the lens will always be perfect, sometimes the tabs and parts of the lens that are not visible might not be as polished and perfect but will always be fully functional." The picture in the first post is not from Klearz.com but is actually from Too Intense's web site of their newly reproduced lenses. The ones from Too Intense are more money, but sounds like they might be better quality.