Arne

I agree. That car needs an owner that will drive it, not leave it parked in a garage. What a cool vintage racer!

The car is in the UK. Auction #4592398396

You are supposed to re-use your existing chrome trims. That makes them not that great a deal for me, the the chrome trim is the part that's bad on mine. You can per-order either style at the following page, scroll down about half-way:http://www.datsunrestore.com/photo4.html And here is the JDM/Euro/Aussie style: Large picture: http://www.datsunrestore.com/images/240Zeurob.jpg

I figured that there had to be someone out there replating that stuff. My left side is intact enough to replate, so all I need now is an intact right side trim to match it. But finding a cracked or broken right side light that still has the trim in one piece shouldn't be TOO hard - I hope. (Not that my car is anywhere near ready for me to be worrying about the tail light trim yet. :classic: )

An excellent start. But the part that everyone needs is the chrome trim. My lenses are OK, just need polishing. But the chrome trim is shot. Who is going to do that? Edit - They have the JDM/Euro style lenses on their web site as well. Add $10 for amber bottoms.

Well, I am definitely leaning towards gearing up to build a batch of these harnesses. Keep watching this space for updates, and tentative prices.

You might try visiting an exhaust shop, I know they have plugs for oxygen sensor ports, they may have plugs for the EGR port as well. Or, you could hunt down an EGR tube that fits the manifold, and then cut it off and plug it. Thats what I did on mine. Eventually I will buy a round port header for mine, which will solve all the issues.

A good service manual will tell you, but the basics for block wear are to measure the bore with an internal micrometer. More important is to measure the bore size at both top and bottom and compare the two. The difference is called taper, and the amount of taper that is allowed should also be in the manual. The bores also wear more from side to side, and less front to rear. So measuring how oval the bore is can be important as well. Pistons wear on their skirts primarily, although the ring grooves can wear as well. Piston pins can wear too. But to do these checks you have to wait and tear down the engine first. Considering that you know you are getting oil past the rings, at this point I'd recommend pulling the engine, and then completely disassemble it to measure for wear. The chances that new rings and bearings alone will fix it aren't all that good. Time for a good service manual, and maybe a reference book on rebuilding an L-series engine.

Before you buy your parts, you need to measure the wear on the bores and pistons, if you haven't already. If the cylinder bores have more than .005" taper, or have a good sized ridge worn at the top, you should have it bored oversize and replace the pistons as well. I've been in this situation before, and would never buy the parts ahead of time. That's a sure recipe for getting the wrong parts.

From what I have read, I'd consider trying to find a P90 head from a 280ZX turbo instead of the N42. It seems to have a better, more modern combustion chamber design, and still has the "better" square exhaust ports. It might be a better starting point for a project like this.

I'm not sure I want to deal with parts supplier issues, but I'd consider making some up if the getting parts wasn't too much of a pain. I'd rather start with Dave's plans though, rather that have to engineer them from scratch.

Have you looked into the PCV system?

The front and rears are separate contacts in the column switch, so that definitely could be your problem.

No, you're right, doing that on a head to hold the valve seats in is a very bad idea. And I'm sure that increased performance was not the goal - whoever did it just didn't want the valve seats to fall out.

I'm willing to bet that was someone's (rather silly) way of "staking" the valve seat, to hold it in place. Perhaps the seats were replaced, and the machine shop blew it ever so slightly when they cut the head for the new seats?

A used clutch master cylinder is false economy. Brand new ones are relatively cheap - I can buy one locally (no shipping costs) for about $40. Why take a chance on a used one for that?

Centerline's are forged, and way light-weight. (I was able to tour their factory in the late '90s, as part of my job. Toured American Racing, Ultra and Boyd's on the same junket.) If function was at the top of my needs, Centerline would be a prime choice. But if you desire a "period" look as well, the Ansens may be the ticket.

I thought you could see it better in this shot, but you can only see the very top of the plate (it's black with an aluminum border). It is low down on the strut tower, and I circled it in red.

For max performance - change to early SUs for street, or possibly side-draft Webers for track. For emissions legality (if required) - change back to injection. If it runs good enough for your purposes now, leave well-enough alone. Those Webers may not be the best carbs, if it ain't broke...

E-mail sent.

Too bad you didn't swing by Oregon on your way home - I've got a hatch I'd give you for free. Not great, but sounds better than the one you have. Probably not worth shipping, though.

Yeah, the 205/50-17 is probably a better size for 7" wide wheels.

Depends on what effect you are looking for. The closest 17" size in overall diameter to the original 14" is actually 225/45-17. But these days many people don't want tires as tall as the stock 14" - one of the more popular 15" choices is 225/50-15, which is significantly shorter than the original.

Oversized pictures are almost always t he culprit. Various Mozilla products have an option to automatically scale images to fit the screen, which is likely why Firefox users don't see this often.

For a street car, there's no reason that a P79 head on an F54 block won't be worthwhile. The exhaust port difference isn't going to make much difference without a lot of other mods to go with.