Arne

Mixture setting with SUs is dependent on several things - among them the level of the fuel in the floats. If the float level is too low, a lean mixture will result - and adjusting the mixture nuts may not help much unless you screw them way out. The fact that it runs better on choke supports this theory, as the choke simply drops the nozzles way down. Replacing the float itself may not be enough to know that the level is close, you need to actually measure it properly. So in your situation, first thing I'd want to verify is that the float level is where it should be.

Back in the day, when I sold tires and wheels for a living in the late '70s and early '80s, I sold lots of sets of 215/60 and 225/60-14s on 14x7 wheels for Z cars. I don't recall many having any rubbing issues. I'm wondering what offset your current 14x7s have?

Buy it now is over, it's at $17k, but the reserve is met.

MSA's catalog is no longer free, it costs $5. But they will credit that back against your first order.

Yup, based on the firewall VIN, your car is a month younger than mine. (12746, 10/70) Still would be a Series I car though.

Don't know about the Datsun injection, but most other injection systems close the throttle completely at idle, and use the idle control valve to regulate that. Carbs are different, they typically have the tiniest opening at the throttle plate(s).

Other way around. The L28 in my car is from a late (82 or 83) 280ZX. I have verified that it is an F54/P79 combo. According to Bryan Little's site, the N42 head came on 75-76 L28s. It has square exhaust ports and bigger valves than earlier heads.

Sounds like either a 70 or early 71. Mine is much the same, the hatch has been replaced with a later one. But since there are no vents under the emblems on the quarter panel, I'm sure that yours is also a Series I car. The true chassis number is also stamped in the firewall, and that is the very best place to verify what you have. Look on the firewall to the right of the battery. Replacement ID plates are available from several sources, Banzai, for example.

I used to do brakes for a living, and I've seen this before. It is trapped air pressure. Check to make sure that you don't have too much extra grease in the cap, and try spinning the hub as you tap the cap on to hopefully relieve some of the pressure.

No kidding. If I were a bit farther along in my project I'd have bought them. But right now I still have more important things to deal with than (admittedly very cool) wheels.

Since my goal is to have a mostly stock-looking driver, absolute originality isn't crucial. That said, I do want it to look "period" so I will try to find a stock-looking radio of some kind. But I'll be using both speakers in back, probably with a small amp that has an auxiliary input jack for my iPod.

Could be, my carbs are early ones and both float covers are the same. But I also note that MSA's catalog lists a different "needle valve" (proper term for what we have been calling "jets") for the front and rear carbs for a '72. So I'm leaning towards the original poster having a matched pair of '72 carbs.

Automatic Transmission Fluid

AM I missing something? Where can I see the pics?

True, but I was reading some of the original road tests of the first 240Z (in old R&T) where they mentioned a noticeable delay in braking action in the rain. I've not yet driven my car in the rain, so don't know how bad it might be. I have experienced this on other cars from the 70s and 80s, and would prefer not to make it any worse, considering how much rain we get here during the winter and spring. Also true. I don't have any big plans for real track time in mine, just an autocross now and then, so brake cooling shouldn't be an issue for me. I guess the big decision for me is that while I would prefer a non-vented spook, I would prefer to buy the real thing from Canaday even more.

Seem to recall something on ZTherapy's site about the different ear sizes. Certain years had different float caps for front and rear carbs. The different length needle jet may have been to go with that, don't know. But regardless, the needle jets are only to open the float inlet, they have nothing to do with the mixture. (Not a true jet, in the normal carb meaning.) You should still set the float level even in both bowls.

Don't know that I prefer the non-vented one, but I do like to stop in the rain. My 240 will someday be my daily driver, and it can rain a lot here in Western Oregon. I'd rather buy from Les, so I'll probably go with his vented one anyway.

I note the recommendation in the book pictured above to use the non-vented spook on the street to avoid wet brake problems. I had already come to that conclusion on my own, but it appears that Les at Classic Datsuns only has vented in the original spooks. Am I going to have to get the replica from MSA if I want the non-vented one?

You should ALWAYS replace the rear bearings anytime the stub axles are removed. They are not designed to be pressed in and out more than once.

Should be able to get straight 20 weight at a motorcycle shop - most brands of fork oil are available in that weight.

All the way forward is supposed to be the 'off' position. Pull back to activate the choke. Yes, it sounds like your car is running way rich. Tuning your SUs is more involved than just using the gauge and synchronizing them. There are mixture settings as well. If you are not familiar with the workings of your SUs, get the video from ZTherapy and/or the Power Tune your SUs book before you start.

See my reply to your other thread in the Engines forum. Probably best not to start the same thread in more than one place.

All the way forward is supposed to be the 'off' position. Pull back to activate the choke. Yes, it sounds like your car is running way rich. Tuning your SUs is more involved than just using the gauge and synchronizing them. There are mixture settings as well. If you are not familiar with the workings of your SUs, get the video from ZTherapy and/or the Power Tune your SUs book before you start.

I want a spook for my 240 some day too! The perfect look for the early cars. Black is fine, but I agree with one of the previous posts that it might look better painted black instead of the black gel coat. Side note - I've heard that Canaday's spooks (from the original BRE mold) are nicer than MSA's. Anyone seen both in person?