Arne

I have owned dozens of sets of H4 headlights over the past 30 years, and can say that if all you're looking for is style, pick whatever tickles you. (Those blue lensed things would get you a citation here in Oregon in a big hurry, though.) But if you are looking for better lights, get a name brand like Hella, Cibié or Bosch. To learn more than you wanted to know about lights, visit http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html Disclaimer - I have no affiliation with Stern lighting, but he's got good data, not guesses or hype.

I have been using European (E-code) headlights in all my vehicles exclusively since 1976. I have used more different brands than I can remember. In the 7" round size for the Z and ZX cars, the absolute finest I have ever used are Hella. (Cibié was a fairly close second.) They will cost more than the no-name lights and don't look as trendy, but if your goal is better lighting, they're the ones to get. As an aside, no independent tests have ever shown any of the tinted bulbs (Xenon, Super-white, etc.) to be better than normal halogen bulbs of the same wattage. Most are actually worse. To learn all there is to know about headlights, go to http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

To answer one of your questions - a '71 with a VIN of 22541 should be what many call a Series II. Series I cars were '70 and very early '71 models (like my '71, VIN 12746, build date 10/70). The primary differences between Series I and II are in how the interior is vented. Series I has vents in the hatch just under the window, Series II (and later) have vents under the Z emblem just behind the rear quarter windows. While some people prefer the Series I, to me it was just luck of the draw. I'd have taken a later '71 or '72 instead, if that was the best I could find at the time.

OK, sounds like ZT might be worth the extra cash. I suppose it's handy that they are located only 70 miles away, as well.

I'd rather have a really good used original hood than get stuck with some cheap aftermarket part.

Nope, old Opel wheels are 4 on 100mm. Datsun is 4 on 114.3. Not even close.

In Eugene, all the dealers farm out their headliner work to "The Top Shop" on Centennial Loop near Autzen Stadium. I've had them do other upholstery work for me in the past, always with excellent results. Last experience was a set of 25 year old Recaros for an old BMW, they did those for me about 5 years ago.

Any one have any feedback on the following rebuild kits for round-tops? Victoria has aftermarket (I presume) kits for $20 per carb. MSA has kits that are (supposedly) OE Nissan for $28 per carb. ZTherapy's "tune-up" kit is $120 exchange for the pair. Other options? I'm leaning towards the MSA kits, as the ZT package seems to be more than I need (includes their video and SM needles, both of which I can live without at this time).

Yup, totally normal. The crankcase is vented into the intake, after the air flow meter. Removing either of those items lets lots of un-metered air in causing a very weak (lean) mixture.

Gary, you and I have corresponded also, even though we've not yet met in person. I'm in Springfield, but my '71 240Z (919 yellow) won't be ready for the road for several months, at least.

I used to change struts for a living, I've literally done thousands. What you pictured is totally normal. The gland nut should not bottom out on the strut housing, instead it should tighten down on the strut cartridge itself. In fact, some companies (Monroe, for one) used to pack big washers to go under the gland nut in case it bottomed on the housing before cinching down on the cartridge.

I feel out of place in this thread. I don't even have one full matching set yet! My '71 came with five 14" slotted mags. The fronts are 14X6 with 0 offset (unknown brand), the rears are 14X6 with about 3/4" negative offset (different unknown brand) and the spare is 14X5.5 with 0 offset (Western). Someday I'll get a matching set of something, but I've got a lot more important things to worry about right now.

I was planning on the oil pressure shut off as well, I've had other cars that came from the factory with that system, seems to work well. As for the pressure, they make the same pump in a 1.5-4 PSI version as well. I just wonder if that would be enough. Not that trust them entirely, but I note that MSA sells a Holley pump that they say has a 7 PSI max as well. Bryan Little's site recommends 3-5 PSI. My problem is mainly that I want to get the pump as cheaply as I can, to save money for more fun parts.

Any feedback on this one? I've read that they are a bit noisy if they are rigidly mounted, but fairly quiet if rubber mounted. Obviously looking at the 4-7 PSI model. The brand is Facet, the model name is Posi-flow, and the one I'm looking at it the 4-7 PSI model on the far right.

Search the forums. Lots of threads about this.

Only two you-pull-its in Eugene, neither has any old RX7s in the yard. (Or so they say.) The other yards all want too much for this item. That $35 new one looks like a good alternative, it's very small, very simple and is rated at 4-7 PSI. Its small size makes it look like it would be simple to mount, probably not too hard to find rubber mounts for it. They also have an identical model that is 1.5-4 PSI. I may stop back by and get the brand and model. My only question about it is noise. I've got some time to figure it out, in my case. There are still a couple of other parts I need to gather before the carbs go back on it. (Heat shield, return springs, choke cable and of course, the pump.)

Yeah, I made a few calls to local Eugene area yards today. Most didn't have any RX7 pumps, and those that did wanted $45 and up for them. I found a really tiny new aftermarket pump rated at 4-7 PSI for $35 and one of the local parts places. That may be the way I end up going if I can't find an affordable Mazda unit. Don't know how noisy it might be though...

It's a 510, and I don't think that it is a factory color.

An interesting thought - does the car just die like there's too much drag, or die suddenly like the ignition was switched off? I'm not sure about a '73, but most early Z's activate the headlights by switching the ground, not switching the hot leads. If there is something shorted or misconnected in the column or fusebox area, turning on the headlights could ground out the feed to the coil. Something to consider...

In my experience, stainless mufflers seem to have a tinnier sound than similar mild steel mufflers. I'm not an expert, so I can't say why that should be, but I've seen it time and time again.

That page loaded right up for me just now. Very fast page, I might add. I didn't see any Hitachi carb info there, and the paint chips have moved to: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

Makes sense, I think you're right. What emissions engineers call "drop throttle" conditions are one of the biggest sources of tailpipe emissions. Hopefully Nissan's solution on the early Z will be less annoying than that of my '96 BMW 328i with a manual transmission - the engine management system on that car holds the engine RPM for 2 seconds before allowing it to drop slowly. Highly annoying when shifting.

Yeah, I rented the full trailer from U-Haul when I picked up mine (with an automatic). The dolly would have been cheaper, but I didn't want to pull the driveshaft, nor did I trust the steering lock enough to tow it backwards. The trailer worked well.

If it is a manual transmission, I don't think it will hurt it. But if it is an automatic, it will probably be toast by the time you get there.

OK, that makes sense. I guess I've not yet seen a picture with the decel dashpot on it. Thanks all.