Arne

The "mandatory upgrade" comment came from a 260Z owner. Well, I suppose even the 4 bbl would be an improvement over the 260Z flat-tops. But when I yank the injection out of my car, it's getting round-top SUs.

So the carb intakes have plenty of metal to cover the notch and still seal OK? I ask this because I don't yet have the intakes in my possession.

The '71 240Z I just bought has an L28 (F54/P79) in it, complete with injection. I will be going back to SUs, but have a question, what manifold gasket? I've seen posts saying to just use a carb-type manifold gasket to cover the notch in the intake port. But I haven't seen any carb gaskets that have the later exhaust port shape for my P79 head. Am I not looking to the right suppliers? Is there a special gasket for this? Or am I just mistaken?

The '71 240Z I just bought has an L28 in it, complete with injection. I too will be going back to carbs, and have two questions. What manifold gasket? I've seen posts saying to just use a carb-type manifold gasket to cover the notch in the intake port. But I haven't seen any carb gaskets that have the later exhaust port shape for my P79 head. Am I not looking to the right suppliers? Is there a special gasket for this? Or am I just mistaken? The fuel pump in my car is probably not going to be able to be regulated down to a low enough pressure for the SUs. What do you folks recommend for an affordable low-pressure electric pump?

Early '71s will have had the same steering wheel (without holes) as a '70 does. Mine is one of them. If your car has the vents in the hatch, your steering wheel probably had no holes.

The US division is located in Brush Prairie, WA - where ever that is. http://www.dashboardrestorations.com/index.htm

Gary, I also have a '71, and for a factory original dash that is uncracked I'd say that those prices might be a touch high, but still in the ball park. Assuming you don't want to pay that much, there are three options: Live with what you have - Mine, for example, has only one small crack. I will live with that until it gets significantly worse. Install an ABS cap - These are available for the top only (about $50) or to cover the entire dash pad down to the console (about $95). They can look OK at a glance, but are obviously just covers when you look closely. Have your dash pad restored - Probably the best option is to have your existing pad restored. I've heard that prices for this range from $500-700, and the results (while not totally concours original) are very good. Do a search for 'dash restoration' and you should find some links.

If I order from them are they going to start sending me their stupid catalogs every three weeks again? It took two moves and several years to get off their mailing list. There must be another place to get this stuff from!

I don't see a link to submit my data. How is that done? EDIT: Oops, found it. Register here - http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/ View at the link above.

Yeah, really odd. My car's build date is 10/70, HLS30-12746. Still think a build date of 9/70 would be more logical for yours, but whatever...

I'm willing to give the seller the benefit of the doubt on the "prototype" label, lot's of people don't really understand the the actual meaning of the word. But no way I'm going to bid on a car like that if I can't look at it in person first.

I'm interested in this thread, as the 240Z I'm picking up tomorrow has an injected L28 in it now. I haven't confirmed it totally yet, but it appears to be an F54/P79 combo with the matching late 280ZX injection. I haven't decided for sure yet, but I'm leaning toward swapping back to SUs on it. We'll see...

My brother has one that is very similar. His is a '63 Series II 88, in very faded blue, with the deluxe bonnet and safari roof. Very cool.

If I'm visualizing this correctly, lowering the rack will make the bumpsteer worse, not better. When you lower the car, you are already lowering the rack (as well as the rest of the car) in relation to the wheels. Lowering the rack will make that worse.

The link to Bryan's site. Good info there.http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

So sad for you folks back there. No road salt used in Oregon...

Is it worth it? Hard to say since we don't know where you live, or how often you'd use it there.

Interesting that it still appears to have its transmission!

Don't know that I've seen any spacers thicker than 25mm, so you may be hosed.

But bear in mind that they may not have been rating those engines the same way, so the differences may not be what it looks like.

The rated HP for the early Z-cars bounced up and down over the years, and the rating system used was not always the same either. So direct comparisons are difficult at best. The following list is from memory, so don't hold my to this. Factory claimed HP 1970 - 150 1971 - 150 1972 - 150? 1973 - 129 1974 (L26) - 139 1975 (L28) - 149 1976 - 149? 1977 - 170 1978 - 170? Side note - the '71 240Z I am picking up this weekend has an injected L28 (from an '83 280ZX) in it now. No idea how much power that was claimed to make. But I suspect I will eventually yank the injection and revert to carbs.

Yup, I spent over 20 years in the tire and suspension business, and the biggest ride improvement will be from tires - specifically nice soft 14" 70 series as noted. All the suspension tweaking you can do won't make as much difference as tires will.

Gonna need some hellacious spacers for those, dude. They won't clear the struts as is. The preferred offset for a Z with 7" wheels is 0. Those are 40mm!!

A well known American rust-proofing treatment. Used extensively in the Eastern US back in the day.

The '71 I'm picking up next week is pretty close to this one - HLS30-12746, also 10/70 build date. 919 yellow and an automatic (for now).