Arne

What year and model? The door latch mechanisms are different from year to year.

Tip - there are so many differences between the various years and models of cars, it is always a good idea to note that in some way when posting. Popular methods include noting it in your profile description, putting it in the auto-signature, or having year and model set as a Custom User Title in your profile settings. These methods all work if you only have one Z. OK. If the turn signal and hazards work, it's not the socket. I suspect a worn, dirty or broken turn signal switch. On a 240Z, the brake light circuit passes through the switch and that is where it is split into left and right.

What year and model? Is it a 240Z by chance?

I think your mechanic is correct. The "L" probably means "Load". My car only has the one single relay on that side.

It is the horn relay. "H" is to the horns. "B" is the power from the battery. "S" is the switched lead from the horn button. The relay must be mounted directly to the body as it is self-grounding.

Setting cold and rechecking when hot is the factory recommendation, as that can help identify problems. If - after first adjusting cold - the hot isn't fairly close, something is wrong. (i.e. weird stuff like loose valve seats, sticky valves, etc.) Doing both is a way to catch odd problems. That said, if you only want to do it once, hot is more accurate than cold.

No. My unmolested '71 was assembled exactly like that, and my replacement fuel filler pipe is like that now. The early 240Zs have captive nuts on the underside of the fuel pocket, so there's no other way to effect a seal here.

Whether or not you should jump the resistor varies depending on the coil, mostly. In my case, the Crane PS20 coil not only said a resistor is required, but it actually came with its own matching resistor in the box. Throughout the entire process, my tach has worked perfectly. No issues in any config. Specifically, no bouncing, and runs with the revs all the way to redline.

Not a Z, but about that size. Anyone have any car transporters they have had good luck with? Obviously, affordability is also important. Luckily, I'm right on the I-5 corridor, so that might help.

Years ago when I dealt with tires for a living, Honda's engineering philosophy appeared to be to always use as narrow a rim as possible. For example, when VW was putting 175/70-13 on a 5.5" rim, Honda was putting that same size on a 4.5" rim. Similar story later - GTIs had 185/60-14 on a 6", CRXs had the same size on 5"; later on Accords had 205/60-15 on 5.5" while the rest of the world used up to 7.0". Looks like they might still think that way. I know the rear size on most S2000s is 225/50-16 - how wide are the rear rims?

Test #5 (Final) Changes from Baseline: All changes from Test #4 Installed new NGK BP6ES-11 spark plugs, pre-gapped at .044" (1.1mm) Results and notes: Car still runs cleanly throughout rev range. Can come off choke much sooner. This was the last piece to implement. The wider-gap plugs give better spark, which is definitely noticeable in the need for less choke when cold. It seems quite apparent now that my issues from the beginning were related to the condensers. The condenser at the coil is still not connected.

Not the kind of car that will appeal to a Datsun Z owner. I doubt you'll find any interest at all.

Blame it on the parents. While my son did not inherit the "car-nut" gene from me, he has grown to prefer sporty-driving cars, because that's all we have had for him to learn on. He learned to drive a manual because again, that's all my wife and I own. Now he can't imagine not shifting for himself.

Update - the removable tips was a great idea! Took them off to clean yesterday. Super simple, works great. Note to any looking to use this dual outlet Magnaflow - resonated/glass-packed tips are needed on a medium-to-large diameter system. The glass-pack in the tunnel of my car is 22" long, and 2¼" inside diameter. With that glass-pack, the combination of both 2¼" and 2½" tubing, the Magnaflow, and the glass-packed tips the exhaust is good. Nice sound, authoritative, but not too loud. Remove those tips and the volume goes up considerably. It would be too loud again without either the tips or the tunnel muffler.

No, my spare harness is from a 4/71. You'd have to re-wire the whole car to use that.If it was the dash harness that was damaged, I'd be more concerned. The engine compartment harness is a much easier project. It's easier to remove from the car, and far less complex. Even if you had to replace several wires, that wouldn't be all that bad.

Realistically, of the things you noted, only the spare set of SUs will have much value, or be easy to sell. And those will only be worth $75-100 at best. The L26 block is scrap metal because no one wants them even for free, and buyers for 4 speed transmissions are hard to come by. The rest is all nickel and dime stuff at best. $300 is not a good price for that stuff unless there is something in the lot that you need.

Ammeter is also before the ignition in the circuit. Again, if it were bad the car wouldn't crank. Facepalm added -

I don't think the fusible link is burnt. If that were the case, I don't think the ignition switch would be powered, so turning the key would not allow it to crank.

I really need to add a facepalm smilie to this forum. They are so useful... Those colors must be the colors on the dash harness side of the connector?

I fear the problem is worse than you think. There are no red wires in the ignition circuit. The red wires by the horns appear to be for the optional factory fog lights, which were never used in US cars. But since something is connected to the left red wire, I can't say that for certain. But if the left one is the fog light wire, the wire that is plugged into it may be the root cause of the meltdown. But since the car won't start now, I'm guessing that the red wire got hot enough inside the harness to melt other wires inside the bundle where you can't see them. You may need to unwrap the harness to find and repair the damage. If the damage is extensive, it may make more sense to replace the engine compartment harness.

US 240Zs had two configs, splitting in 1/71 (or thereabouts). The primary difference is in the upper-inner red bulb. I documented this (somewhat) in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?34891-Modify-US-240Z-rear-turn-signal-wiring-(JDM-style)

It can't be that much more expensive to produce - the rest of the world has had high-quality, low-sulfur diesel fuel for many years.

I blame it equally on the big oil companies. For years they have fought against efforts to improve the quality of US diesel fuel. Until the recent (mandated) shift to Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD, 15 ppm), not even the European motors could meet US emissions requirements for cars. Face it, the last thing big oil wants is a fleet of fuel-efficient diesel cars reducing (even if only a few percent) our appetite for petroleum.

Hah!. I left my 240Z at the muffler shop last week. Warned them to pull it in while the engine was still fairly warm, that way they wouldn't have to use the choke. Push-button start/stop? Indeed...

It's not just Detroit. As you note, VW already makes that car, but they won't import it to the US. Same with Mini and.....