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Arne

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Everything posted by Arne

  1. Yeah, I'm with Frank. I fully expect a complete paint job to take longer than they promise, but that kind of treatment won't cut it with me. I'd have yanked it away from them a year ago.
  2. Arne replied to chachacourt's post in a topic in Interior
    The inner (black) sill plate holds down the weatherstrip, and covers the edge of the inner sill textured vinyl. I can't recall that I've ever taken a picture that shows that area clearly. I'll have to dig around.
  3. Arne replied to nhines3's post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    42? Ouch. You'll need 30-35mm spacers then. Spacers that thick should not require longer studs, as they will bolt to the existing studs and have built-in studs for the wheels to bolt to. They won't be cheap.
  4. Arne replied to nhines3's post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    WAG - 25mm. To be certain, you're going to need to find the offset of those wheels. For a 7.5" wide wheel, you probably want a total offset of around +10 or so. So if the rim offset is around 35 (as I'm guessing), a 25mm spacer will give you an effective +10. The offset may be stamped on the back side somewhere, sometimes as 'offset', others as 'ET'.
  5. Did you check the fusible link? If that goes you lose most of the electrical system.
  6. Arne replied to chachacourt's post in a topic in Interior
    Well, without getting into the question of why you "NEED" carpet under the seat and up the sills (most 240Zs don't have any, mine certainly doesn't), or why the lack of such carpet will prevent you from driving the car, my best guess would be that a molded carpet kit for a '75-76 280Z might be able to be modified to fit. There will be differences, especially where the tool covers attach behind the seats. But that's probably still the closest you will find.
  7. Arne replied to chachacourt's post in a topic in Interior
    That is correct. The original carpets were just those mats. They did not go under the seat, nor up the sill. I know that for certain, as I still have mine packed up in the garage.
  8. Good catch, JC. I fixed it.
  9. I agree with Alan on this. If the NA market had been the primary focus, there would not have been any need to build such models as Z432R, ZG, etc. Why did we get the the car equipped as it was? It was simple to market that way. Nissan equipped the HLS30-U to the lowest common denominator. They knew the car needed the bigger L24 motor to be compelling over similar priced competition, so we got that. But past that, in case the car became popular and high volume, they wanted them all to be the same to simplify marketing and logistics. So no factory options. Simple. Pick a color and buy it. Did the US car need a 5 speed to compete well? No, so we didn't get it. Softer suspension and slower steering will widen the appeal, so we got that. But since there were no options, that's ALL we got. I seem to recall seeing early documents that indicated the possibility of a "Sports" package for the US. Would have had the 5 speed, triple Mikunis, probably the firmer suspension, etc. That possibility died as soon as the waiting lists for the base model formed. In the mean time, in Japan there were different models, and a vast array of factory options available. While the 240Z was an important car to Nissan USA both in sales and in halo effect (getting new customers into the showrooms), the S30 line was just as important (if not more so) in the home market. It was the "image" car for Nissan in Japan.
  10. Arne replied to 240jetjoc's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    PM sent...
  11. I deleted the entire post. Done that way, I can still see it should the need arise.
  12. jerry, should I clear their number out of that post?
  13. Geez, people, give it a rest! You're trying to analyze this whole thing the way you'd pick apart a 240Z that was offered for sale! If you feel you might be able to help, and are willing to call her, do it. Or don't, your choice. But let's stop the endless banter.
  14. Arne replied to mgood's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Mike, I thought your late version of the 1971 sticker above looked pretty good - until I printed a copy to compare side by side with the original. Besides the couple of typo-type errors (annotated in my attachment), the font is obviously not quite right. The one you used has the wrong height/width ratio. Too tall, too narrow. I have no idea if you have the ability to tweak that or not.
  15. Since SHE (Profile states real name is Joyce) hasn't even logged back into the site since she posted her contact info above, I doubt we've either offended or amused her.
  16. Arne replied to HapG's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Wow, I had no idea there was a dipping outfit local to me! Will be something to consider if I do another...
  17. Arne replied to desertmonkey's post in a topic in Introductions
    Not to be snarfy desertmonkey, but your posts would be much easier to read if you'd break it up into short paragraphs. Typically, that helps getting more useful replies.
  18. Arne replied to steve91tt's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Steve, you've touched on something here that still puzzles me to this day. Take a look at this thread, especially starting at post #12: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?34159-Slave-Cylinder-Sizes
  19. Arne replied to Norcal510's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Thanks, Alan. I wonder if 116 was used on any other Datsun models in the USA in that period. That'll be a good thing to look for.
  20. Arne replied to Norcal510's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    That color was not offered on any cars here in the US, or rather, not on any Z cars. So it's not likely that any US paint books will have a code or formula for this color. I don't know if any overseas formulas will translate directly to US paint suppliers.
  21. He hasn't even logged into this site since December, 2009. So I don't think it likely that he will respond.
  22. Arne replied to jezze's post in a topic in Interior
    Well, now that you say that and I think about it more, I'm no longer certain. It's been several years now since I've had any of mine out of the car. Maybe it wasn't felt. Could have been foam.So in short, please don't anyone take what I said above as being the gospel truth - I might be wrong.
  23. As part of the slow refresh of my red '71 240Z I knew I needed to replace all the fuel hoses, especially the big ones that go to the expansion tank in the right rear quarter panel. I'd read all the instructions for saving money by using generic fuel-rated hose and inserting sleeves in them to keep them from kinking and such. But since I am more than a little reluctant to pollute my red car's originality, and also because I really didn't feel like messing with bending and inserting sleeves, I decided to bite the bullet and buy factory hoses. As a side benefit, I figured I could advise others on whether this was as good an idea as it seemed to me at the time. So now that it is done, here are the part numbers I used, and my comments. I got mine at club discount from my local dealer, but your dealer may not offer that. So I included prices from NissanParts.cc for comparison. (Prices current as of 1 May 2007.) 17239-E4601, $27.15. Smaller diameter hose, runs from expansion tank to top right side of the fuel tank. About 3 feet long. Has a preformed double bend at the tank end. This hose is apparently actually correct for '73 240Z, but works OK on '70-72 cars as well. (Correct '70-72 hose is NLA.) The double bend is not quite the same as the one that was on my car, but once pulled into place seemed to work well. Arne's advice - RECOMMENDED, but not absolutely required - The preformed bends do help for this hose. You might be able to get by with generic for this one, but the bend at the tank end might kink some on generic hose. Since this one is affordable, I'd do it. 17235-E4601, $53.20. Large diameter hose with several preformed bends, including a 180 degree bend at the tank end. About 4 feet long. Goes from the expansion tank through the floor to the back of the fuel tank on the right side. Correct for '70-73, fits perfectly. Arne's advice - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - You need that 180 but would need to sleeve a generic hose to do it. The price of this hose is not that bad considering the three custom bends. Buy it. 17238-E4602, NLA as of 9/09. Large diameter horseshoe shaped hose, less than 2 feet long. Runs from expansion tank to fitting on filler neck. Correct for '70-73. Fits fine. Arne's advice - SOMEWHAT RECOMMENDED, not absolutely required - You can do this one fairly easily with generic, especially if you used a slightly longer hose than normal so that the bend was gentle. And no that it's NLA, you'll probably have to... 17236-E4601, $88.43. Medium diameter long hose. About 6, maybe 7 feet long. No bends at all. Runs from left side of tank up through the floor, across and into the bottom of the expansion tank. Correct for '70-73. Fits fine. Arne's advice - NOT RECOMMENDED - Unless you are a fetishist about original parts, use generic here. This is the most expensive hose from Nissan, but it has NO preformed bends. So there's no advantage to the factory hose on this one. I also used 18" of 3/16" ID fuel hose (return line), 18" of 5/16" ID fuel hose (fuel supply line), and 4 feet of 1/4" ID fuel hose (evap tank to flow valve line) to do all the other hoses there while the tank was out. In addition, I got replacement grommets and hose sealing sleeves from Banzai. The hose sleeves could be replaced with heat shrink, but I felt the real thing wasn't all that expensive. My grommets were still soft, but the replacement hose from the top of the expansion tank to the metal line that goes to the flow valve on the left front inner fender (the 4 feet of 1/4" hose) was a smaller external diameter than stock. One of the grommets I got from Banzai was apparently intended to deal with this difference and worked great at that spot. Anyway, the deed is done. For myself, I'm not sorry that for the red car I bought the long one from Nissan, but for my yellow car I would not have bought that expensive one. I think it worked, the garage does not have that faint gas odor tonight, so I'm happy.
  24. Nice work, and great write-up! I edited the thread title to make the topic more obvious, merged the two threads and promoted it to "Tech Article".
  25. Arne replied to jezze's post in a topic in Interior
    I think the factory used felt, there were remains of it on most of my panels. (Well crushed, of course.) I've tried replacement felt, but I don't think the self-adhesive felt you can buy these days is thick enough to cushion it. The closed-cell foam is a better solution.

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