Arne

I think the linkage would be the big hurdle. I suspect the HS6 will bolt up fairly easily to a Nissan manifold, and if you use .100 jets and SM needles you should be in the right ball park.

I'm not at home either, so I can't measure mine at the fenders. A more accurate measurement is at the bottom of the rocker panel, near the jack points. Measure from the ground to the bottom of the rocker panel (not the bottom of the pinch weld). The stock height at that point should be 7 3/4" to 8", IIRC.

Not sure how loud it is by itself, I have a 24" glass pack in the tunnel as well. With that glasspack, the sound is not loud, but really smooth and sweet. The MSA exhaust is 2 1/2" tube.

That's a good find. Remember that Monza no longer makes a 240Z muffler, only 280Z, which have horizontal tips similar to your 510 muffler. The story behind it (being an "orphan") is about the same as how I snagged my early Monza, from before the full muffler that they used for 240Zs at the end.

Collector car insurance is different than normal use insurance. If you plan to use your car as a normal car, you have to deal with normal insurance. FWIW, I can't qualify for Hagerty either. I drive my car to work at least once per week. Difference is, I'm not upset at Hagerty - it's their rules, and I can't meet them.

I have actually gone as far as to remove the transmission from a Z so that I could get proper tools and leverage to remove the filler plug. I wish there was a simple trick, but I'm not aware of one.

Indeed. No salt here in Oregon, and no significant snow or ice here in the Western Valleys, either. Which is why I drive mine year-round.

Canadians have an excuse for not driving year-round. But I know where you live, Mike. If I can drive mine all year, so can you!

Ebay link - Black 280Z

The faded carpet is OK, that just takes sun exposure. My car's carpet was far worse. But you are right, my '71 with 72k looks better than that by quite a bit.

No way that's only 6,600 miles. It's turned over at least once. The wear on the driver seat is very telling. Interesting to note - the seller entered the mileage in the field, but never mentions miles anywhere in his description. He knows that it is over 100k, but is probably hoping that buyers may think otherwise. And he then he can claim that he didn't lie about the mileage. Not someone I'd feel good about buying from, I suspect.

My gauge runs just a touch lower than that year-round. The gauges in these cars are not especially accurate, nor are they consistent from car to car. If the car doesn't seem to be over-hot and the gauge shows that same temp under normal conditions, I wouldn't get too worried about it.

Here's a Tech Article written by one of our handier members... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?24194-Rearview-Mirror-Restoratiom

Sea Foam Green? Where? Mine is shades of blue-gray.

Aluminum brake drums from the '71 and '78. Grab those if they are cheap.

Randy, this was the real reason you drove the Prius when we had lunch in February, wasn't it? Wasn't the threat of rain, you couldn't bear to let me see it? Trust me, I've seen worse.

I'd actually love to have a set of Libres or clones. (Or even better, a set of American Racing LeMans.) But my wife might kill me if I snagged yet another set of Z wheels...

Thanks for correcting that, Leon. I was shooting from memory, couldn't remember the exact difference.

Lots of people running SUs on P79/90 heads. I had a P79 in my yellow car for a while, and beandip has been running SUs on his P79 for years. The notches in the head are covered by the manifold fine. You'll probably want to find a P90 so that you don't have to swap to a new round-port header or exhaust manifold. If the stock P79/90 compression isn't enough, I've read of several people who have shaved their P79/90 .070", shimmed the cam towers back up by about the same amount, and use the earlier L28 valves that have .070" longer stems. That should get you close to your current 10:1 ratio but with the better chamber shape.

Yup, looks like a Type B, from '72-78. No further mods needed for the 5 speed. Or at worst, perhaps the need to trim the already-trimmed spots a bit more for the extra cog.

Payback will be slow, with that use. Stronger than the original '70-71 4 speed, perhaps. Not than a later 4 speed. (See next comment.) Quieter, more relaxed cruising on the freeway with the 5 speed. Or you could change the read diff for a lower ratio and get some performance increase while still maintaining top gear ratio of the four speed. Maybe, but it is also possible that it has had a later 4 sped put in it, which requires the same mods. Is your shift lever a totally straight rod? Or is is 'S' shaped?

There will be no fuel economy difference at anything other than highway speeds. At those speeds, you might pick up a couple MPG, maybe. Saving $250 will require you to save somewhere between 60-70 gallons to pay back. That's going to be hard to do in a short period. I'd say the payback period for most of us would be more like several years, easily. When you also consider that installing it in a '71 will require either a modified shift lever (cut and welded), or tunnel and console mods, I can't see that it is worth it if economy is your only goal.

Yes. Either Libres (made by American Racing) or one of many look-alikes (made by Shelby, US Mag, etc.).

Ron, I used the headliner out of my yellow car in the red car after the sunroof was removed. When I pulled (carefully) the headliner off the donor roof, there were two or three small spots where the foam stuck to the roof and left a divot in the foam. When Escanlon helped me install it in the red car, he noticed those divots and filled them with little scraps of foam to prevent them from showing after the install. Worked perfectly.The other option (if you are missing significant amounts of foam) would be to remove it all an glue a new sheet of foam to the vinyl. That shouldn't be too hard, assuming you can find an extra body or two to help lay it out smoothly. I'm pretty sure it is the same story, just a different pattern of vinyl. Still needs to be glued in place.

My car also sat at the "correct" height with the stock springs and non-gas Mulhollands. (Which also groaned and stuck.) The GR-2s with the stock springs raised it 1/2" or so. I currently run the GR-2s with a set of the repro Euro springs, which need to be cut down when used on US spec strut tubes regardless of the struts used. So I just cut them down a bit more to bring the height down to stock again.I'm glad I have a set of springs that I didn't mind trimming for my car. Gives me a lot more strut options. But like Dan and his set of stock repros, no way I want to cut my originals. If those were all I had, I'd also be looking at Konis.