Arne

If he did, it was the same set that is pictured above that Epperly built. They may have been on Mike's car for a while right after it was re-assembled.

I forgot that you had a set like that, Dave.

I don't see why, other than the entire system needs to be fabricated for a Z. Plenty of old Jags came with triple SUs, really not much difference in theory, still an inline six.

Yeah, been enough name-calling, both ways. I'm locking both burger threads. Let's everyone try to be civil, now.

Installed a pair of NOS non-smog (euro-dizzy) advance return springs in my original dizzy today. These springs have a quicker advance curve than the US emissions springs. Got 'em on eBay, Nissan part number 22110-E3100. They were dirt cheap. My car's dizzy had been "recurved" by a cowboy at some point in its past—the "mechanic" (or so we will call him) quickened the curve by simply removing one of the two return springs. This did bring on the mechanical advance faster and sooner, but it also was reluctant to return to the static timing at idle. That poor single spring didn't have the strength to pull both weights all the way back. These non-emission springs appear to be a good compromise. The curve is still quick, probably similar to the single spring. But now it returns to idle properly.

The ones in my 7/71 car are like the ones on the left.

His IP address does match his profile location...

Oddly enough, in 20+ years of playing with older or semi-collectible cars, my 240Z is the first one that I might actually break out of my normal cost/year on, if I were to sell it. Previous play cars (of those I owned longer than say, 2 years) have historically cost me right at $1k per year of ownership, outside of normal maintenance. Example - I was into the '67 MGB I bought and restored from '89-95 for $15k. Sold it for $9k, and thought I did good. After all, I got a fair amount of enjoyment for $1k per year. The E21 323i sold for $5k ($10 invested) after 5 years. You can see the trend. Thanks in part to the increase in 240Z values over the past 4+ years, and also to the fact that I bought it right, I could actually do much better than that if I sold it now.

You don't say what year car you are working with, but US 240Zs route the brake light circuit through the turn signal switch. From what you describe, I think you've got worn, dirty or broken contacts in the turn signal switch.

I can't remember the actual format of the code - like many of the codes on these cars, the pump code is different from others. Check out this thread from a couple years ago: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33272

Absolutely. Economic things are always changing. Correct. I have a couple of standing offers for $15k even now. Also correct. Similar cars are in short supply, even here. And they change hands quickly when offered. Yes, I'd humbly say that mine is a reasonably nice #3. A very nice attention-attracting car, but not so nice or original that I'm reluctant to drive it. And this is the part of the market I don't understand, because neither I nor anyone I know personally is involved here. Still have trouble grasping that value difference, even if I understand it intellectually. Absolutely. You'd need to strip it and go through the whole thing. I do have a lot of the original parts in storage, so that helps. But even so, I'd still guess at least $30-40k for my car to go to true #1 state. Makes good sense when lined out this way.But what prompted my comment was the valuation in the originally referenced article, plus Doug's comment about the offers he's received, and neither of those match what you've described. They are saying $32k, which may be correct for a #2 car, judging from your explanation. But they are describing what sounds to me like a #3. I still maintain that the value they state is out of line for the car they describe.Likewise, IIRC DougN's car is not a factory shade of yellow. If so, I can't see that as being a #2 either. A nice #3 like mine, sure. But not a #2. (Sorry Doug, no offense intended.) So the offers Doug has received seem out of line to me also - especially judging from my vantage point in a relatively Z-rich part of the country.

You might also consider using the top diaphragm cover from the original as well, as they are typically stamped with date codes.

That is a fantastic find! I'd be stoked to have that for my car as well! Once you have it all in your hands, could I get some pictures from you to add to the thread on NLA period exhausts?

Kurt, yes, that is a 4 wire pictured. The key part is the inductive loop in the white wire. I think I'm still hoarding a spare just like it boxed up in the garage. As my parts cars were 4/71 and 10/70, both used the early style tach.

Must be an East Coast thing. Here out West, I can't see that happening for even really excellent examples. No way I'd expect to get $20k for mine now, maybe $15-18k.

Error or typo. In today's market, $32k will buy a pair of "nicer, but not necessarily perfect, example(s)". At least.

This is a fairly common problem, but I've never heard of any successful repairs. As far as I know, it's either replace with another, or replace the guts as noted above.

With that build date, you'll need an early fusebox, commonly known as a "long tail" fusebox. Used from the beginning through 12/70 or so. Later '71 'boxes (short tail) have some differences that would need to be dealt with.

Don't know that a pair of 46 mm SUs have enough flow for a 3.0.

Moved to the FI forum. Also deleted the other thread. Please don't create multiple threads for a single question.

A firm maybe. I'm flying to LA on the following Sunday, so a fun run on Saturday will depend on if I get all my have-to's done during the week.

A ride many years ago in the passenger seat of a race-prepped Porsche 911 turbo variant of some sort. It's been too long ago for me to remember exactly what it was. Two or three hot laps at Portland International Raceway, years ago before they added the chicane to the long straight. As I recall today, we were doing 150+ on the straight. As fast as that was, the thing that most impressed me was not the speed or acceleration - it was the BRAKING! That first lap, I was sure that we were gonna die, spattered on the wall because this guy wasn't backing off or braking at all! And at what I felt was several lifetimes passed the "last possible second", he finally got off the throttle and stood on the brakes. At that point, I thought the belts would fail from the G forces and I was going to go right through the windshield. The brakes on that Porsche impressed me immensely. They totally changed the way I thought about brakes.

I rebuilt mine a while back with parts from Nissan. But a later check seemed to indicate that I may have got the last check valves in the USA, as the following week they were NLA. As I noted, the guts from the new pump will fit into your original body should you wish to do so.

One of the OEMs for these pumps is/was Kyosan-Denki. When I was looking a year or so ago, I found that several companies re-package the K-D pump. One was Beck/Arnley, part #151-5725. Look for one of those. Also, keep your original (failed) pump. If the new K-D looks too good, you could disassemble them both and use the new diaphragm and check valves in the original pump body.

Isn't there typically a big Roadster event traditionally on that same weekend?