Arne

Also no pics. As noted, should fit fine, but will make the fender gaps look a little larger on a stock height 240Z. For reference, you might want to look for pics of cars with 215/60-14 as well, the height and gap should be similar.

If I were doing a non-original blue, I think that rather than a modern color, I'd reach back to other vintage car makers. Maybe Marina blue (late '60's Chevy), for example. I think a color like that could really enhance the lines of an S30.

Looks like fun. I will have to make a point to stop at Griot's next time I'm up that way. And I still lust a bit after a set of those 15" aluminum LeMans wheels on your car, Mike. Gorgeous!

You mean this Saturday the 4th?

I'm with you on the looks of the curved end type being more attractive, but I won't drill the hatch - not here in Oregon where rain water could wick into the holes...

More seat time...

The 3 ohm coil should be used without a ballast resistor.

I don't have louvers on mine, they are one of the few classic '70s accessories I don't have. No way I'd drill the hatch for the body-mounted style today, but if I ever stumble across a good deal on a decent set of glass-mounted, I could be seriously tempted.

Boots and hinges were installed and adjusted before final paint. Mine had original paint on the tiny bit that protruded from under the hinge.

PM sent

Repro hatch hinge boots... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/34-2236

I stopped by today, my local parts house have restocked and have plenty on the shelf. No supply issues at all. I picked up a spare for myself, still 5-6 left.

BMWs use 'em too. Not 240Zs.

I can't think of anything remotely stock looking in 15x7. In fact, the only 15" steelies I can think of off the top of my head that might work would be stock Triumph TR6 wheels. Can't remember how wide those are, but no more than 6" at most.

No, directly. As Jon noted above, there are ways to modify other fitments to work in a 240Z, especially for racing use.

No, haven't for years.

If you decide not to use them, please keep me in mind. I think I'd love to have them on my car.

Ron, here is what Bilstein's website says about servicing them: http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/search-service/service.html But - if they don't have any dead spots, you can (with effort) move them smoothly from full extension to fully collapsed, and they don't show signs of leakage, I myself wouldn't bother. I'd run them as is. In fact, send them to me and I'll test them out for you.

I agree with John. That much toe would be easily visible to the naked eye. Virtually undriveable. Time to look elsewhere for your alignment.

I still like how this exhaust is designed, but I just can't get past that ugly Dynomax hanging at an odd angle at the rear. Too dang visible on a 240Z.

Been for sale for several months. Has Washington plates, and is said to be on the coast, so it is probably across the river from Astoria.

No pigs were harmed in the posting of this message... Da da dum dum dum dum da da dum....

I'll second E's post above, with the addition that if you don't know the history, I wouldn't even bother testing the fuses, just replace them all. Even if they test good, some of them could be 10-40 years old. (I know some of mine were still original when I bought it.) And old glass fuses tend to be very prone to random failures.

Pictures of an ignition lock/switch from a 4/71 build 240Z. Is the same as for my 7/71 as well.

OK, that's tougher. First, I'd need to pull the column cover of, then try to get my honking big camera back in there to try to take a meaningful picture. But this is really pretty simple, as the ignition switch/lock only has one large connector (5 pin), and two small wires (generally red w/blue trace) for the key-in-the-ignition squealer. There's really nothing else to it, and not much that you can mess up.