Arne

Yes. That appears to be the case.

That number plate (and the HLS30-65361 VIN) is definitely from a '72 240Z, not a 280Z. What is the VIN as shown on dash, door jamb plate, and as stamped in the firewall?

Please provide pictures. It looks like the engine compartment plate is not the one your car came with from the factory - L24 would indicate a 240Z.

Not a fan. I'd sooner run black steelies than painted alloys. But it's not my car so it doesn't matter what I think. If you like it, do it!

Probably not rings, since the oil didn't bring them up much. I'd suspect sticking valves.

No real way to set a value on something like this here in the USA. Way too few of them, and no real track record on the very few that might have changed hands in the past couple of years. Moreover, even among the few that do exist here in the USA, and assuming you found an owner of one willing to sell, the chances of finding one that is mostly original is even more rare. Every RHD car I've seen offered over the past several years has been, beat, rusted, repainted, and frequently has the wrong engine in it. But on the flip side of this, while the numbers here are few, the reality is that the number of potential buyers for RHD cars may be even smaller. So I really doubt that you'll have to pay much of a premium for the RHD car over a similar LHD 240Z, unless you find an exceptional example.

Too Intense had those lenses made up special, and they also sold some of them to MSA for a time. I'm pretty certain that they are all gone now. So until and unless someone cranks out another batch...

Same deal - MSA gets them from esprist. Similar price either way.

A bit late to the party, but here goes anyway. Haven't dug my radio out to check the light color yet, but I did scan the manual.

On my '71 240Z the cable has two leads, one heavy and one small. The small one connects to a threaded hole on the firewall near the battery. The heavy lead connects to the upper of the two starter mounting bolts.

I looked around quite a bit - I don't think the covers are available separately.

I don't have my factory radio installed so I can't say for certain right now, but I could have sworn that the indicator light in mine is red, not green. To check that, I'll need to dig it out of storage. Not sure when I'll have time for that.

Time to update the avatar...

I've got the manual for TM-1081ZB, but might not be able to get it scanned tonight. It is similar to the A manual, just refined and re-translated. Maybe tomorrow night.

Well, something isn't right. No way it should sit that high in front.

From the looks of it, I think you have the rear springs on the front and vice-versa.

I've tried that. My notes tell me that it was much the same with the OE coil and ballast, better (i.e. higher RPM before it stops revving) with the stock coil and the resistor bypassed.

Not temperature related, same thing hot or cold. I still tend to think it has to do with voltage. If I make a change that reduces the resistance to spark (i.e. new plugs), or to decrease the resistance/voltage drop to the coil it gets better. I'm currently highly suspect of the wire to goes to (and then returns from) the early four-wire tach.

So today, not quite five months after I put it all back in, I took it back out again. To recap - back in April (at 70,500 miles) I re-installed the Pertronix Ignitor and 3Ω coil, along with a good old-fashioned tune up. New plugs, wires, valve adjustment, cleaned and lubed the advance mechanism, and new wiring to the Pertronix. This seemed to work. For a while. But as the Summer has gone by, I've noticed an increasing tendency for the ignition to washout. At first it was just a bit if I ran it up over 6000. So slight, and I run it that high so seldom, that I wasn't sure it was happening. Then I started noticing it over 5500. Recently, it became noticeable just over 5000 RPM. So I went back to the used points and original 39 year-old coil. No other changes at all. Runs perfectly all the way to redline again. So during the driving I have done this Summer, something has changed/worn just enough to cause a return of the problem. It's worth noting that I have driven it a total of 1000 miles since putting the Pertronix back in. That's not much wear. Perhaps I could fix it with another fresh set of plugs. But plugs every 1000 miles? I'd rather change points once every year or two. I had hopes that doing it all correctly back in April would have been enough, and the initial results were encouraging. But in the end, it certainly appears that for whatever reason, my car is simply not a viable candidate for electronic ignition.

I can't think of much else different, Hugh. The pilot bushings are all the same. As I'm sure you are aware, the release bearing collar has to match the pressure plate, and the clutch fork and slave cylinder will also need to match. But the rest should be all the same.

Year and model? Any mods? From the fuel pressure you note, I'm guessing a 280Z, but no idea about anything else.

Maybe. But it looks to me as if you could teach me a thing or two about polishing wheels!

Trevor, if you ever drive up into Oregon we should try to get together for a photo shoot...

No, mine is messed up too.