Arne

My opinion? Bear in mind that I pay other people to do my body and paint work. That said, IMO that car is terminal. I'd part it out and a better one. While truly rust-free are rare, here on the West coast there are lots of better starting points, for not a lot of money. A $1500 car without all the structural roof and pillar rust will be money well spent.

Rust-free 240Zs DO exist, but when you find them, they aren't cheap. I know, I've bought them both ways....

Mine isn't white, Mike, but the 905 red I had done on my car is clear-coated. Seemed like the better way to go at the time.

Unless you can find a buyer who like the exact mods on the car even better than you do.

Since you are replacing the insert anyway, and therefore don't care about damaging the shaft, I'd weld a piece of angle iron across the top of the gland nut to use as a lever.

That was a long time ago - I've forgotten what that is like to have 2 year olds in the house.

Don't know which is worse to have in the house - energetic 2 year olds, or hermit 25 year olds...

Can I recommend/ask that you do these steps one at a time to see which one clears the problem? Last time I had this issue, I replaced the plugs with a fresh set of NGKs and that took care of it.

Yes, I admit that I would prefer a yellow 240Z. But now is NOT a good time for me to pursue that...

You are absolutely correct in your belief that various states have different regulations regarding the formulation of the fuel. Some states even vary the formulation within the state by region. Much of this is EPA-driven depending on air-quality conditions. It sounds as if the formula that Nevada has settled on is not very suitable for hot weather and carburated cars.

So the car is the same month as my red car. Just fewer miles, in theory. The pictures are enough to justify a closer look, if I were really looking for another clean 240.

You will only have two choices with these rims - zero or +15. Zero is the typically recommended offset for a 7" rim on a Z. Indeed, the +15 may sit inboard too far to clear the strut tube. The zero offset should be fine on a lowered car as long as it has a front air dam. If you have the stock valance instead, watch for clearance at the front when turning. The 195/60-15 size is probably a good choice to help minimize this possibility.

This is why you always disconnect the ground cable FIRST. Then there's no chance at all of arcing with the wrench. No need for rubber if you use proper technique.

I too have requested more and better pictures, but no reply at all yet.

The factory positive cable end had (still has, in my case) a rubber insulating cover that you have to peel back to get to the terminal.

MGB and TR-2 through TR-6 all use the same bolt pattern as the S30. There's more info at the importer's website, that specifies the predrilled bolt patterns (including 4-114.3) and offsets (some of which are S30 suitable).http://www.vtowheels.com/retro4.html

You're right, I know that too. Don't know what I was thinking. I've got to not post when my brain is supposed to be concentrating on work... :stupid:

12/70 would have been the second iteration of non-retractable belts. Push-button latches.

Yup, if you end up having to remove the headliner, try to find the loosest corner and start slowly peeling it off the roof. Have some sort of scraper handy to try cut or scrape the foam off the roof to keep the foam on the vinyl as much as possible.

Same reason I ended up parting the yellow car. While it would have been a great starting point in the Rust Belt, by the time you add trucking costs and the uncertainty from not being able to inspect in person, most buyers back East are wary of pulling the trigger on something like this. And there's too much competition here on the West Coast.I know it's hard, Dave, but be patient and your buyer will come. It is a good car, and someone will eventually come to that conclusion.

Yeah, I can't quite visualize the entire car from the light itself, but I'm thinking late '60s Corona.

It has been my understanding that the triple Mikunis were originally considered as part of a possible Sport package option. Getting them past emissions testing in time may have been the hang up at first, and once they got rolling and the waiting lists kept growing there was obviously no incentive to certify them.Just my thoughts - no idea how correct (or not) I may be.

The 4/71 car I parted had a plastic tank. My 7/71 is metal. I think they changed to metal in 6/71.

There's a lot more Zs here on the West Coast, so the prices tend to be lower.

Then a single (not twice pipes) 2.0-2.25" should be fine for you. I'd have it made locally, not start with a pre-built and then pay someone else to re-build it.