Arne

They will do cargo mats, but I did not ask about that. The pair of floor mats was US$130 + shipping, US$145 total.

We've been on E10 here in Oregon for a couple of years now. I've not had any noticeable problems so far, so have not considered any corrective measures yet.

Custom. I ordered over the phone, didn't look at the online stuff. He assured me that he had a good 240Z pattern. And from the way they snuggle down in the footwell, I'd say he was right.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30409

The blower has an inline fuse in the 240Z, I would not be surprised if the 280Z was the same.

I posted a review in the Product Reviews section for future searches there, but since I don't know how many people look at the reviews section, I thought I'd also post a quick shout here as well. I bought a pair of black sisal floor mats from www.cocomats.com and could not be more pleased. Hand-crafted in South Carolina, these are some VERY nice mats. Very heavy duty (they weigh 7+ lbs. each), great materials and fit, non-slip backing, nice heel pad, etc. I really don't see much of anything that I'd want to change - they are that good. I highly recommend them.

Forecasts are looking promising, but still too early to say for certain. How long have you been talking about ditching those wheels, now? 3+ years?? :tapemouth

...in his opinion. Mine, too, but others prefer the 280ZX. To each their own. Life's too short to not buy the car you like best.

Yes, the '70-72 brackets go straight in and don't even come close in that area.

Extended weather forecasts are for sunny and mid-to-upper 70s on Saturday and Sunday. Best weather in this part of the country so far this year!

The carbs must be pulling the same amount of air before accurate mixture adjustments are possible.

You pegged it. That is the factory power antenna switch for a '73-73 240Z with the AM/FM radio.

If you are really good, you can gauge the amount of air being pulled through a carb by comparing the sound using a length of fuel line held to the carb mouth. But at best, this should be considered a very rough approximation. To do it right, you need a flowmeter of some sort.

Yeah, here on the West coast I'd say $1000 to maybe $1500. But probably more than that for rarity in your part of the world.

Interesting. IMO, the S30 and S130 have very different characters. They really did not target the same market segment with the S130.I was looking for a new car in late 1977, and considered (and test drove) a new 280Z 5 speed. Liked it, but did not buy it, decided to save for a down payment on a house instead. But in 1981, after being in the house for a couple years, I was again in the market for a new car. Didn't even think about a ZX, as the newer car just wasn't at all the type of thing I was interested it. Ended up buying a Scirocco S instead, the last of the first gen Sciroccos. Must have been the right call, as we kept it for 10 years and only sold it then because our son was getting too big for the back seat. I tend to prefer light, small and nimble over comfort and luxury. I have never thought of the S130 as any of the first three. Perhaps that's a bit unfair, but that's how I perceive them.

The failure point for this type of problem (both for clutch and brake hydraulics) is typically the master cylinder. It happens more often with brakes than clutch, but both are susceptible. So removing the downstream parts doesn't help. In the case of the brakes especially, you don't want to press the pedal (and therefore the master cylinder piston) farther than its normal amount of travel. Doing that will run the piston seals over the sludge that will have built up inside the cylinder bore. So your best bet is to not stoke the pedal if possible - use either gravity bleeding, vacuum bleeding or a pressure bleeder. Anything that will allow you to change the fluid without having to push the pedal.

I'll clarify that advice a bit. If you have been flushing the clutch (or brakes) regularly from new, that's fine. But if they have never been flushed, or it has been many years since the last flush, don't start now. What happens is that crud will build up in the cylinders over time. If you flush regularly from new, the crud is cleaned out regularly and kept to a minimum. But if the crud is allowed to build up and harden over several years, a flush won't remove it but will only move it around to where the piston seals have to run over it and you suddenly have a failure shortly after the flush.

I seem to recall hearing at some point that the outers that are made to match the universal inners are threaded to match, not threaded L and R like the originals. I recall someone saying that you need to buy the inners and outers as matching sets from the same manufacturer. But I don't know from personal experience if that is or was ever true.

For people only attending on Sunday (the day of the actual show), a number of us typically meet at one of the I-5 rest areas and convoy in the final 10 miles or so.

I do. But we don't salt the roads here...

Apparently he bought a 280Z.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=330&pictureid=2315

No red idiot light for the charging system on a 240Z. Just the ammeter.

If ethanol is the issue, you may want to look for a station that sells what the boat crowd calls "the Clear", which here in Oregon is 92-93 octane without ethanol. Oregon now mandates 10% ethanol in motor vehicles, although cars over 25 years old are still allowed to use the clear if they can find it. Generally only available at stations near boating destinations here. Not very convenient. Might be worth testing a tank, even if it's not convenient for all the time use.

There are holes in the rear panel of the 260Z/280Z for the backup lights that would need to be sealed in some way.