Arne

There's been other threads on that question here, the answer has been mixed. Sometime in late '72 or so?

Depends on the year and which style tach you have. The early 240Zs with the so-called "4-wire" tach will not run (without a jumper wire) if the tach is disconnected. I don't believe that is true for the cars with the "3-wire" tachs.

Guy, the later one-piece seals are what the ones that come in the Precision kit are trying to replicate. As I noted above, the crimp part is too big to fit nicely under the black scuff plate. I don't know if original Nissan seals for the later cars would have the same issue.

That's about 6'5" to 6'6" for the metric challenged. Tall, yes. But I don't even think my car's seats go back that far.

I don't see any problem using any of the early single-point dizzies in your car. The advance curve was slightly different on the later dizzies, but not by so much that you couldn't tweak the static timing a bit to compensate.

If you didn't ask for those holes to be filled, I'd ask the shop for assistance in re-creating them. You should not have to risk damaging the new paint to undo something the shop did that they weren't supposed to do.I'm certain that between all the 240Zs on this site, we can find someone whose emblems are not installed so we can make templates for you.

Well, yes and no. Pumping it in is that simple. But nowhere in the Nissan manuals does it state that you pump it in until it starts to dribble out. The factory always states that "the proper (measured) amount of lube should be added".It has been my experience with the early-style (Type A) transmission in the '70-71 240Z that if you fill until it dribbles out, you will have overfilled it by 1/4 to 1/2 quart or liter. If you do this, you risk having the excess leak past the front input seal. I wonder if this might be true for the differential as well. I would strongly recommend not overfilling it, but to pump in the specified amount only.

No. You can use the same manifolds now on the car. If the carbs you will be installing are from either a '70 or '71 (known as "4 screw" for the number of screws holding the dome to the body), you will need to bypass the manifold pre-heat (coolant lines), but that's all. Not sure on this one, but I think the '73 choke cables can be modified to work. In any case, the cables for a '70 will be considerably too short due to the difference in how the early cables were routed.

No need for two separate threads on this topic. I merged them

Yup, that'll make it worse. Since we don't know how fast everyone else is driving, it's hard to reverse calculate the ratio. But I'd guess that a 3.9 is probably close. Not the best for use with a four speed, that's certain.

With stock size tires, a 4 speed 240Z with the stock 3.36:1 ratio should be turning about 2850 RPM or so. Tire size can have a significant effect as well. What size tires do you have on the rear?

Pipe tape can tend to insulate the sensor from grounding properly, causing gauge inaccuracy.

The black finish on the original recliner mechanisms in my late '71 is/was satin.

Oil from a rear main seal rarely gets on the clutch. The oil drips down the rear engine plate. The clutch is on the flywheel, which is between the leak and the clutch. I really don't know why the mechanic would tell you that he thinks it is getting on the clutch, unless he wants to make it sound important enough to be certain you have the job done. Price seems a bit steep to me as well. While I'm with Gary in that I would do that myself, I did pay a local German car specialist shop to replace the rear main seal on the family BMW. Same basic job, but the BMW is more involved. That shop (who specializes in BMW, Mercedes and Porsche repair) charged me $700. Can't see that the far simpler Z should be more than the BMW.

Is that why my '71 doesn't seem too bad in this respect?

Hey! You talkin' 'bout me again?

Can't say about the BD unit as I've never seen one. Dave's connects to the main harness where the right headlight pigtail normally connects. Both headlight pigtails connect to Dave's harness instead. Dave includes a blank sealing plug to cap off the main harness connector for the left headlight. That, an additional ground wire and connecting the power supply wire to the battery is it. Totally simple and trouble-free.

Now that sounds über cool.... :eek:

I once thought so too. Then late last month real life slapped me upside the head a good one to remind me what is truly real. Datsun's a a great diversion, but sometimes the real thing must take precedence.

With stock wiring, my car consistently showed a slight + charge, maybe 5 amps at most. It bounced around that point a bit with the original points-type regulator, much more steady with the internal regulator in the ZX alternator.After the relay installation (I have both the headlight and tail light relay harnesses), the ammeter is the same as before with the lights off, a very slight + charge. With the lights on , it hovers higher, probably around +15 or so. Bear in mind that these readings are from a car in excellent condition, and that is driven regularly. A significant + charge is normal if your battery is a bit low from sitting unused or such. But once the battery is charged, the regulator should deliver output just slightly in excess of the total load. When the load changes, the charge should quickly step up to match. That's why you will see a quick jump and return of the needle when you step on the brakes or something similar increases the load.

Yeah, but it'd be a long drive home so I could be a work on Tuesday morning...

My stock 40 amp alternator lives in safe storage, sitting besides such parts as the original metal fan, date-coded plug wires, gray-green distributor cap, Koito headlights, AM radio and antenna, etc. Nice to have, but not used in normal driving.

Here's a different thread that gives some additional info on this. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30584&highlight=throttle+bell+crank

The 240Z throttle linkage is rather bad this way even under the best of conditions. Adjusting the rods may help some, but the real answer is to modify the bell-crank to try to eliminate the over-center action of the linkage. Here's one thread documenting this modification - I searched for "throttle bell crank" to find it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12946&highlight=throttle+bell+crank