Arne

Well, I think so, especially on a 280Z. That size is the same diameter as the original 13" rubber on cars like 510's and 1st gen Rabbits. Will throw off your speedo noticeably, and gear down the car too.

This is thread number three on this subject. I'll merge it in with the other two.

The factory downpipes (from manifold to the center muffler joint) for automatics were different than for same month manual transmission cars. I can't say for certain for 240Z exhausts, but for prior cars with this type of issue, aftermarket replacement suppliers typically only make whichever part will cover both choices. So an aftermarket downpipe (if you can find one) would quite possibly work. The MSA premium flanged system (with their own design downpipe) is routed differently, I suspect it would fit fine, albeit a much larger, non-stock-looking system.

I'd test them for leaks. With the engine idling, spray a little WD40 (or your favorite substitute) at the shaft pivot points, on both sides of both carbs. If the idle changes (either up or down) during this process, the shafts are leaking unmetered air and you will never get them adjusted correctly.

Too true. I can think of several here that I lust after. And some of them aren't even yellow...

I did not read thoroughly every post here, as I don't have time to get too tied up while here at work. But in a quick scan I did not see any reference to checking for vacuum leaks at the throttle shafts. If the shaft bushings are bad, trying to get it running right at idle can be nigh impossible.

I'd use the appropriate size thread die.

Sorry I missed this here. I answered in your other thread.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38539

I did this a couple of weeks ago. I built a custom pulley-puller so that I could leave the radiator in place. But pulling the radiator would have given a lot more room to work. Some additional thoughts: If you use a Nissan factory seal, it comes with the seal area pre-lubed with grease, so no additional lubrication is needed. If the seal you use is not pre-lubed, a little oil or light grease is a very good idea. Turn the engine to TDC before you pull the pulley off the crank nose. This will assist you in getting the keyway aligned with the woodruff key when you reassemble. I strongly recommend having a new woodruff key on hand before you start. If the current key does want to stay in place well, replace it. Nissan part number is 00926-51600, list price is less than $1. Be very careful to to get the key/keyway lined up properly, and that the key is firmly enough embedded that it won't move as you push the pulley over it. The pulley is cast iron, and therefore brittle. You don't want to do what I found the PO did to mine. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38293

I've seen them for about $240 per set.

I use the factory blue Nissan filters on mine, but only the original large capacity. (Nissan has a smaller one too, but the originals were large.) So if you go with the Wix/NAPA I'd use whichever is larger.

FWIW - I've never gotten any response from MSA regarding complaints or suggestions when using email, but much better when talking on the phone directly. Not sure who is in charge of reading email - maybe no one and that's the problem!

I agree with Stephen. Unless your car is a US car that was later imported to Europe (and from the picture, that does not appear to be the case), I'd stay with the carbs you have and reuild and tune them.

Yup, those were one of several different Western cap styles for those wheels. Very cool to see you still have a set!

The mags now on the car are Western Bullets. They originally had a shallow dome cap that covered the entire center of the wheel. Neither set are original to the car, although it is possible that the wires could have been dealer installed. The wires will require tubes...

The wires are Dunlops. Same company that made the factory wires for most English car makers, such as MG, Triumph and Jaguar. Note the 'D' in the fifth picture. Also note the poorly stamped circle around the D, as well as the arrow to the right of it.

Normal is what ever your car is when things are right. If that changes, that's the time to get worried.

Mine reads just to the right of halfway also. I wouldn't worry about it.

Since the car used to be an automatic, I think those are for the relay that the automatics had below the coil for the dual points switchover. I suspect you can safely ignore them. There are no wires at all to the early MC. I suspect those two black wires are for the washer pump. There should be two pairs of wires in the tunnel, one pair for the reverse lights and the other for the neutral safety switch (NSS). I can't say for certain, but in most automatic cars I've seen, the reverse wires both have male bullet connectors, while the NSS had blades. I think. The two NSS wires will need to be jumpered, I think they were black. The reverse light wires MAY be red and red/black.Hope this helps...

Yeah, I left that damned buzzer connected as long as the key could be removed in the non-LOCK positions. As soon as I repaired the lock and eliminated the possibility of leaving the ignition unlocked, I unplugged it. I hated those things back in the '70s, still hate 'em today...

Yeah, probably simpler to stick with the matching style. While a later car may be able to use an early long tail box in place of the original short tail box, it definitely won't work going the other way. I had a heck of a time finding a nice long tail box a few years back. This one looks great and would be a great addition to most any Series 1 with the typical fusebox damage. If I still had a car that used this style, I'd be tempted to buy it as a spare. Same with the lockset. Still tempted on that one, I may yet sneak in a late bid.

It's been a while since I had both styles side-by-side, but I seem to recall that there may have been a couple of minor differences in connector styles or something like that. I'm fairly certain that if you have some basic electrical skills you could make it work if necessary, though.

I could remove the key in mine when I bought it, but the owner's manual specified that the key should only be able to be removed when locked. I replaced the wafers (tumbler pins) in the ignition lock and that improved it a lot. Having a new key cut from key code (instead of from the worn originals) fixed it completely. But in short, per the owner's manual, if you can remove the key in any position other than LOCK, either the key or the ignition lock is worn, and more likely both.

Several different companies made that style back in the day, these days they are frequently referred to as Per-Specs after one of the common brand names they were sold under - Performance Specialties. Like virtually all other wheels from back then, in the Datsun bolt pattern they were only available in 14" diameter, but various widths depending on the actual manufacturer - I've seen 5.5", 6.0", 7.0" for sure, and possibly 6.5" too. Definitely not in production these days, so not available new. They can occasionally be found on eBay, craigslist, etc.

I don't know that they can't be made to work, but it won't be a simple bolt in like any '70-78 seats would be.