Arne

They are still available new, part #65157-N4400, Courtesy's price is $3.10 each.

You're a he-man, just stomp harder!

I DO know where my CD is - it's in the file cabinet with all the rest of my commercial software installation media. I've had the actual files installed on my Mac's hard drive since the beginning, with an alias to the starting PDF as Andrew noted. The only difference is that on a Mac you need to make certain that it is set open with Adobe Reader, not Apple's supplied Preview application. Otherwise the links between the various files don't work properly.

I've got over 20 years in with SU-equipped cars, both Japanese and British. And I agree that most all carb "issues" I've dealt with over the years was from un-needed fiddling. Either from people certain they could be adjusted better than they are, or people who start tinkering with the carbs anytime the car hiccups. FWIW, once set they don't change themselves, so there's no reason to suspect them when things don't work normally. Problems are more often ignition or fuel delivery TO the carbs, not the carbs themselves.

You may want to chat with your insurance agent about rates for different types of car before pulling the trigger on any "sporty" car. Could have a big bearing on affordability for a new 16 year old driver.

I've never looked for one for a '72. Both earlier and later seem available, but '72s???

Actually, in my experience a 9/70 build probably came with the 1971 emissions sticker, and was "officially" considered a '71 by Nissan USA. The split for those days was typically between Aug and Sept.

It has a G-nose on it. Can be replaced by the normal parts later, it's all bolt-on. You may be able to sell the G-parts later, some people really like them.

Fair enough, E. I just have it better than most. My Nissan dealer is happy to order me whatever I ask for, whether I supply the part number or not.My dealer does not require me (as a known return customer) to pre-pay for my orders. I can phone or email my request and pay when I pick it up.My dealer just happens to be about 3 miles from my home, and directly on my normal work commute route. No side trips required for me to stop in on my way home.My dealer offers me a club discount on all parts, the price typically equals or betters the price from other online dealers like Courtesy or NissanParts.cc.No shipping charges unless I ask for next day delivery.No sales tax here in Oregon, so the lack of tax for online purchases is not an issue. So, yeah, I've got it pretty good. Better than most, it sounds like. But with all the above being the case for me, why would I consider buying a Nissan factory part anywhere else? I'm not saying people should not buy from MSA (or any vendor they prefer). But there are a whole lot of factory parts that are not available from non-Nissan dealers, yet many Z newbies don't even think about giving a Nissan dealer a try. It may not work for everyone as well as it works for me. But it might be worth a shot now and then.

if it goes away when you step on the clutch, it's either an input shaft bearing or one of the two countershaft bearings. Not a release bearing or clutch problem.

Well, I feel bad for those of you whose local dealers are difficult to work with. Mine is great. Yes, I generally supply part numbers, but not always. And they never give me grief about ordering some small part that only costs peanuts. If your dealers don't work that way, well that's outside my experience, and I guess that's a good enough reason to go elsewhere. I certainly understand supporting the site, and its sponsors. Besides my supporting the site directly and through the recent Bolder Tint GB, I've spent plenty with MSA, probably more than I have with my local Nissan dealer. But the other part of that is that my dealer can and will supply Nissan parts that MSA doesn't have, and isn't likely to get. When I wanted to rebuilt my original fuel pump (rather than replace it), MSA had no repair parts. Neither did my dealer, of course. But the dealer was able to order them. Try that with MSA. I guess my point is - MSA is NOT a Nissan dealer. They aren't going to stock or have available all of the various parts that are still available from Nissan for these cars. So if there's a particular part that I want, I'm going to check with my dealer first. If they can get it, that's where I'll buy from. If Nissan can't supply me, then I'll buy from MSA or where ever else I can find it. And if I need something that's not a factory part, MSA is one of my first stops.

I like MSA, but can't see why people go to them and pay shipping instead of going to the Nissan Dealer first. Makes no sense to me, since all MSA is doing is getting them from Nissan and reselling them.

Too much money. $15.00 for the pair shipped? List price from Nissan is $1.20 each. No shipping costs at most dealers, and tax would only be a few cents.

I won't dispute the fact that Standard aren't what they were years ago. But I still don't understand why you need to replace them so often.

Try a Nissan dealer.The one that bolts to one of the thermostat housing bolts (#34) is part number 22473-N3000. The other two (#38) are number 13241-65000. It looks to me like the small ones are still in stock in Nissan warehouses. The larger one might be NLA, so you may have to find a used one.

I'm with Mike, the last set I removed had over 6000 miles on 'em, and still pretty good shape. I'll keep them as spares. I don't know why you should need to change them so often.

Really, you should know that answer! The exhaust note of an inline six is pure music! I don't even turn my radio on much of the time. Just roll down the window and enjoy!

Well, my best guess as of now is that the Pertronix will work fine in most cars, but only if everything else in the ignition is good also. The differences between what I have installed now and working fine (so far) and what was failing to rev past 4500 RPM when I last went back to points are two small things: 1.) I replaced the older BP6ES plugs with a fresh set; and 2.) I made up a new power supply wire to run to the Ignitor that was much larger gauge wire than the previous wire, hoping for less voltage drop to the Ignitor. That's all I did differently, yet this time it's running fine. The jury is still out on this, as I don't yet trust it to stay this way.

I can't dispute your other claims, but it's hard to see how the synchros on the B boxes could be better, as they all use the same synchro (baulk) rings. The 'A' 4 speeds, 'B' 4 speeds and 'B' 5 speeds all use part number 32604-P0100.

Oh, I know myself so well. Today I put it all back.Decided it was time for a minor tune-up today. So as part of that I decided I'd try it one more time, and give it every possible chance to work. So I installed new plugs (NGK BP6ES), new wires (not that the old ones were bad, but I'd couldn't handle those bright blue NGK wires under the hood of my red car any more), cleaned, tested and lubed the advance mechanism, installed the Ignitor and matching 3.0 Ω coil, bypassed the resistor, and built a new, heavy-gauge power wire to the Ignitor. Set the timing to 8° BTDC, vacuum advance still hooked up. So far, so good. Seems to pull smoothly to 6000+ in first and second, didn't drive it anywhere I could try it in the higher gears. So I'll give it another try for a while. Updates will be posted when/if things change.

I've seen replacements of solid aluminum, but nothing listed in harder rubber or poly. I replaced mine with new factory rubber, and it seems OK to me. You could also try removing your rubber ones and taking them to an off-road shop to see if they could match them up with some poly bushings for off-road shocks. Seems to me that they look very similar to some of the shock bushings I've seen, might get lucky.

Sure. Get 'em from your favorite Nissan parts department. R180 - Part #08229-22810 R200 - Part #38354-P6600

If you do go with spacers, try to use the thinnest possible. If the rubbing is just a little, a 1/8" (or sometimes 5mm) may be all you need. The lug studs on a Z aren't very long, so the less spacer the better. But I'd first look into using a file or grinder on the caliper, as Jon noted. Often all you need is a little casting clean up.

Oregon doesn't keep track past 10 or 12 years old. Which means that ALL of my vehicles are now mileage exempt. Ironically, the Z is the lowest miles car I own, by 30k+. Not counting the motorcycle, of course.

Advertises what's under the hood. Like leaving an iPod, nice camera or a laptop computer in view on the seat - begging for someone to do a smash-and-grab.The emblem is cool when it means something (like it did/does on this car), but if the car can't be garaged I don't think I'd want to advertise it like that.