Arne

No, the stems are still NLA. I had to buy another set of wheels to get them. Then re-sold the wheels without the stems. Only way I could find to get a set. I'm not aware of any acids in polishes, the acid-cleaners I was referring to are spray on liquid cleaners. They typically caution that using them on polished finishes is not recommended as they will etch and dull the finish. Any decent polish should be fine. I've used Mothers paste by hand, and also used Mothers Power Metal liquid with a Mothers Power-ball in my cordless drill.

Hey now! Even US-spec ZXs are outside my knowledge comfort zone, and real JDM Fairladies are far outside. Anything I guessed would be just that - a Wild A** guess.However - as an old former tire/wheel guy I would be interested in hearing any history you can find out about the rims on it. They appear to be 14x6 Appliance brand "Wire Mags" with the spoke area painted gold. Appliance never offered them painted like that, and they phased out that style well before your car was imported in '84, but many of them were actually cast in Japan for Appliance. It wouldn't surprise me too much if the company who built them for Appliance also marketed them under a different name in other markets. So I'd be curious to know if they were installed on the car here in states (probably as a used set in that case), or if by chance they were installed in Japan before the car left for the US. As part of my curiosity and reference on them, I'd love to see a closeup of the center caps and lug nuts.

You may want to contact JLPurcell as he had the original style reproduced a few years ago and was selling sets now and again. I don't know if he still has any available, but his were the original style with the '240Z' open to the body color rather than the reverse as MSA now sells.

My glass guy put in the trim before the seal, seemed to work well for him. I can see where with the blacked out trim that the narrow might be acceptable. But with the stainless I'd probably want the wider groove, if I could get one. My rear groove is noticeably narrower than the front, even though they all came from Precision in the same kit.

In the USA, '69-72 are all the same, but '73 is different, having the bumperettes spaced closer together. Sounds like the bar you got is for a '73.

Assuming that my 35 year-old (and very cheap at the time) dwell meter is reasonably accurate, I'm showing ~35° at idle. Bottom of the spec window. Increases slightly as the revs go up, but not more than 5°, still within the spec window. This change might tend to confirm Pertronix's claim that the Ignitor has "adaptive dwell" which is somewhat variable. Or it could indicate that my meter is crap.

OK, you've got me on this one. On all of the Zs I've owned, the screws go straight out away from the driver's side of the steering column. I don't see how the dash could interfere. Can you post a picture of how your switch is oriented?

BTW, I deleted your other thread. Don't post the same question in more than one forum.

I've never had a problem getting to either of them in this manner. What's in the way of the top one?

If you are willing to travel for a car, consider visiting the USA West coast. Good examples are generally cheaper by thousands out here, and the selection isn't bad.

Those are the anti-theft screws. The normal heads are designed to break of when you tighten them down the first time. To remove them either drill the heads off, or use a Dremel tool (or similar) to cut a slot for a blade screwdriver into the head.

I edited your code to load thumbnails. If you are going to load images like that, resize them to screen appropriate size first.

This one scares me. What part of the wheel well? You say "the size of a pancake" - how big a pancake? 2"? 4"? More?

Are you planning to paint it yourself, or have a shop do it? If you are having it done at a shop, talk to the painter about the issues. He should be able to custom mix as needed to make it right. That's what I did on mine in 905 red. The paint mixed to code was not a great match, but after the painter tweaked it it was great..

Steve, I used the Precision kit on my car 2 years ago. I believe mine came from MSA, but I can't confirm that right now, nor do I know that there is any difference between Precision kits from other vendors. But the key issue is that the trim channel on mine is rather narrow, and doesn't show the trim correctly. I'd say that the trim that shows is only 8-10 mm wide, the rubber overlaps the trim too far IMHO. Seeing the difference, and seeing how the Precision piece looks on my car, I'd be tempted to try the BD piece with the wider groove. I'll try to take a picture and post it here later this evening.

Ouch! I'll wager buying them individually from Nissan would be significantly less than that.

The rules are different out West, although they vary some from state to state. But in general, plates are issued once and can be used as long as they continue to be registered on the car, with only new stickers (tags) applied. Replacement plates are not routinely issued. So the presence of current year-of-issue plates on a CA car indicates unbroken registration within the state of California. Here in Oregon the laws are a bit looser, the presence of year-appropriate plates is not an indication of unbroken chain of residence. But year-appropriate plates can be legally registered and used on cars in one of two or three methods here.

I don't think the blue plates are reflectorized, not even the yellow. I think that started in CA with the white plates.

That shot was taken during the reassembly process after the paint job. Was the best picture of the plates I could come up with on short notice.The tail panel paint I used was from Les Canaday at http://classicdatsun.com/

It is true that most states have administrative rules that prohibit repainted plates. But done well, no one will know. I've always thought that the blue of the California plates was very similar to the blue used on Oregon plates through '73. If so, this site may be able to help with the blue. The yellow on the CA plates appears to be a bit more "orangy" than the Oregon yellow, though.

A pair of compartments in the floor of the rear deck, under the carpet near the seats. I can't find any pictures right now, but that's where the jack and tire changing tools are stowed.

No solid guarantees, but if you have enough room to get these on the lock it should work.

Remington, or Norelco?

I've never seen the factory-style rubber in preassembled "sets" like the poly bushings come in. I think you'll need to order them all individually.

There are hundreds—if not thousands—of Gorilla codes. Summit will not have spare keys available, you would need to contact Gorilla for that, and they aren't going to sell you a key without knowing the code.Here's another thought. Hit up your local tire shops to see if they have any old Gorilla keys lying about. Code doesn't matter at all. Bring it home and use a die grinder or Dremel to grind off all the splines save one. If there are both wide and thin splines, leave a wide one to match the one at 2:00 in your picture. Don't grind the other splines too far down, you want the key to have a very snug fit. You should then be able to use it to remove the locks. Worst case scenario, you can buy another full set of locks to get a key to modify.