Arne

Done.

Jared, if you like, I could go back through the thread and correct that price in the earlier posts. Won't do it without your permission, though.

Well, on his behalf, I'd get tired of having lots of people ask him for stuff and never even bothering to make a day trip to look at the car in person. If you made a day-trip to look at the car in person you might be surprised at the change in attitude. I drove 500 miles round-trip to look at one in person before I bough my first Z. Well worth the small effort, in my mind, as pictures can hide things that in person inspections will show. This guy might be willing to deal if someone would bother to meet him half way.

That should be the one. I don't think there was more than one size in that style, but I'd ask to verify the diameter before buying. Good find, Mike.

The Talladega was offered by Shelby for 3-4 years starting in 1982. For Z's, it was available in 14x6 only. I can't recall any other Shelby wheel that shared that center cap. I suspect it will be very difficult to find a match for it.

There is a protective film on the adhesive side, that you should not remove until you install it. With the film on, they aren't too fragile.

I understand wanting to see it in person, but I'd much rather buy a slightly worn but original car like the eBay one than a clean but refreshed and color-changed car.

IIRC, some of the very early '73s might have come w/o the electric pump also. I seem to recall that it was a late addition once the vapor-lock problem reared its ugly head. So #797 definitely would not have had an electric when new.

Any updates?

You're welcome, everyone. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of other cars with these installed. Please post when you get one in.

Your rims look like they are probably "Western" brand to me. I don't think the black caps are original to those rims, but could be wrong. Try giving Massey's Wheel Accessories in Oklahoma a call, (405) 239-2010. If anyone will have caps in that size, it will be Massey.

Don't 260Zs have a starter relay somewhere? Could that be the click?

All international orders are now shipped as well. Will do a final accounting, and then the remaining proceeds will be donated to CZCC.com.

Wouldn't have done it if I hadn't wanted one for myself bad enough to be willing to take it on. Yes, it was a PITA, and I'll think really hard before taking on something like this again. But it's almost over now. I've got mine, 34 others will have theirs, and while I haven't got the final accounting finished yet, I do know that there will be a pleasant amount left over for a club donation. A win for pretty much everyone.

All USA-bound orders were shipped (via First Class Mail) this morning. I expect most—if not all—of them to be delivered by the end of the week. International orders will be shipped soon.

After mine was stolen last year, I found that good ones were hard to find. I got the last good spare that Jim Frederick had - it wasn't cheap, but it was the only decent one available last Fall. Since they are so easy to steal (as I found out the hard way), I decided that I really wanted a spare, for just-in-case. So I sent a typical example I got from Dave Irwin (bad chrome and corroded) out to be re-chromed. It turned out quite nice, almost as nice as the show quality piece I got from Jim. That one is the one on the car now, with the really good one safely packed in a drawer here in the house. I could still stand to find another new base gasket, though.

Send a PM to Zs-ondabrain.

My opinion? Black rubber -> :sick: Chrome retractible ->

'97 Integra is a different bolt pattern (4-100mm), plus seriously wrong offset. You need to find 4-4.5" (4-114.3mm) wheels for a rear wheel drive car to be able to simply bolt them on. Any FWD wheels - even those with the same bolt pattern - will need expensive adapters/spacers to fit a Z.

The car is probably salvageable, but $3500 is WAY too much money. It has some serious rust issues, some of which (passenger dogleg, for example) appear to have been just puttied and painted over. The previous repairs (passenger floor, right frame rail, driver's dogleg, rear valance) appear to be pretty half-a$$ed. For $3500 in California, you should be able to buy a car with far less rust, and in better overall condition. I'd recommend some patience and that you pass on this one.

Yeah, Cibiés are not much imported into the USA anymore, so they are difficult to find. Daniel Stern imports them, but in very small volume so they cost considerably more than Hellas, for example. The set that I have are at least 25 years old, judging by what I believe are date codes on the back side. I actually bought them from another member here who replaced them with a pair of clear lens MSRs. Prior to the Cibiés, I was using Neolites. They are low-cost H4s made in India. Not as good as the Z-Beams in light output, but they have the advantage of a convex lens face and some of them are patterned similar to the Cibiés. http://www.classicgarage.com/7rounheadwit.html

Each tube will include a copy of the original instructions circa 1975. The instructions are still valid, but here are some additional tips, based on my recent experience. Cleanliness is essential. You want the inside of the windshield and the contact side of the sunshade to both be as dust and lint-free as possible. You'll never get it absolutely perfect, so accept that up front or you'll get really frustrated.Do not use ammonia-based window cleaners to prepare for installation. Clear water with a bit of vinegar, or alcohol-based cleaners are OK. In either case, rinse with clear water after cleaning.I did a final wipe using a microfiber drying towel to eliminate as much lint and dust as possible. It appeared to help.The original instructions say to use clear water only, with a drop or two of dish detergent as optional. The additional adhesive on the newer mylar doesn't allow it to slide around for positioning as easily as the originals did, so consider that drop or two of dish soap in the water as required. I did not use it on the test application, but did on the last one and it was MUCH easier to slide around and get correctly positioned.Be careful while handling the sunshade so as not to crease or wrinkle it. Special care should be taken while peeling the clear protective film off the adhesive side, as it is very easy to wrinkle it then. Wrinkles in the mylar will show later.The instructions say to use a squeegee, and they do mean a RUBBER squeegee. Flexible rubber is essential, a harder plastic squeegee won't do it.Lastly, it doesn't pay to try to get it positioned too tightly against the rubber windshield seal. Try to get it too tight and you risk wrinkling and creasing the mylar. Absolute perfect fit is not critical since even an eighth to a quarter of an inch gap really doesn't show - since the black rubber window seal is right behind it.

I installed one of my pair today, and I'm well pleased. The fit is nice, and the installation process was much easier this time. I'll be posting some updated hints and tips shortly. Shipping prep has commenced, I'll be working on that some tomorrow, and plan to take a few hours off work during the week to get the bulk of them shipped out. I hope to get all of the USA-bound packages mailed by Wednesday or Thursday. All will be shipped First Class mail. There will be either one or two per tube, as needed. Those of you who ordered more than 2 will receive more than one tube. The International orders will go out a bit later, I plan to pick up the Customs forms early this week, and hopefully ship by the end of the week. My car is alone in the world right now in wearing a current production Bolder Tint sunshade. But it won't be alone much longer....

Dave's third brake light (coming soon) will be the only easily spotted non-period mod to my car. In one way, I hate to do it. But I'd hate to have some bozo in a big SUV rear end me even worse...

I thought this might prompt some interesting discussion. With my current red car, I'm pretty firmly in the "period-where-visible, but modern-where-hidden" camp. Either type, modern or period, I try to do without permanent changes to the car, so they can be reversed if that should ever seem desirable. In my current condition, all of the visible mods are either true-period parts (Appliance wheels, Cibié H4 lights, Pioneer Supertuner radio and Monza rear exhaust), or period-style or period reproductions built recently (my Spook and the just-installed Bolder Tint sunshade). Less visible mods are the lighting relays, Pertronix, ZX alternator, RT-diff-mount and Kenwood 5 1/4" speakers. The KYBs and Euro springs also. Better is that it's all pretty much reversible, without traces. (Other than the holes in the valance for the spook.) And it's fun!